Gio

This might help https://z32enjoytheride.files.wordpress.com/2015/09/z32-jdm-production-numbers.pdf and some more resources here

Good morning all. Preparing for new stereo install and think the old speakers (no idea what - they're almost certainly non OEM given the wiring bodge I've seen behind the console) are in a horrid state. Sound awful when driven a teeny bit loud. According to microfiche 284 the non-Bose units are 6.5". On a bit of searching here (and AndrewG's posts and FunkySi's), 6.5" speakers would need a spacer. Is that all 6.5"s or just some? I'm trying to get stuff in advance without having to take the door cards off to find out because I'd have to do it again later when the stuff arrives! (You call it lazy. I call it being prepared :D ) Is this video the right method? I know it's about Bose and has the US belts in the door but other than that, is it a good guide? from CarStereoRemoval.com's 300ZX page. Thanks, Mike

Thanks Chris300, spot on. Thanks AndrewG - the JVC manual spec and pic said 5mm which is why I queried it with JVC UK who said "er, yeh. We tried one here and you're right, it's not 5mm" ! Eventually JVC heard back from JVC Japan who said use self tappers and they're sending me some. So we'll see if they're the same as the ones posted by veilside01702. The 2 things that are odd about this. 1 this is the third aftermarket stereo (1 Sony, 2 JVC) I have put into 4 Zeds. All the Nissan units (obvs), the Sony and the 1st JVC all used the standard OEM screws like the ones Chris300 sent me. It's only this new JVC that doesn't. And 2. if they want self-tappers why don't they bloody say so in the manual (and why didn't JVC UK know?). I'll post a pic of the ones they send when they get here. Thanks, all.

Chris's screws turned up (thanks) but didn't fit. Checked the manual and bought exactly the spec in the manual. They didn't fit either! Chris's on the right, new on the left. M5 countersunk 8mm long. Exactly the same (other than finish). I've tried an M4 also - they just drop into the hole - they're too small. Reported to JVC and they confirm the spec of the unit "may have changed" as their M5 doesn't fit either and don't know what the thread is! They've queried with Japan. If someone's got the audio brackets out, could they please measure the distance (hole centre to hole centre) of the screw holes - I'm thinking that getting a tap to ream out the holes in the radio to 5mm might be the simplest solution. Who thought installing a new radio would be quite such a faff? Cheers.

Package of goodies arrived from ConceptZ: hood storage lid handles (fitted), convertible top latches (one fitted to replace the one with a bit of plastic missing) and two map light bulbs. when I ordered the bulbs, only one had gone. When I came to fit, they both had - thus proving the benefit of ordering a spare! is that the largest % difference between the tiny part and the biggest box in the catalogue? :D Oh, and fitted my new plates so G10 is officially back on the road :) Big shout to Rival Motorsport who coughed up with the right size rear plate (JDM) when I discovered that the plate I had on the S6 wouldn't fit on the S2 (someone had bent the plate supports so the taller plate could be screwed to the bracket). I also discovered that the normal registration plate screws (which worked fine on the S6) just too big for the S2. Baffled. Still, bit of gorilla double sided and all is well.

I didn't know that. But still worth a try. My Series 1 had a Nissan pair of head units (wish I'd kept them now for historical accuracy!) as did my S6. The screws from the S1 fitted my Sony head unit. I took that out and fitted it to my S3. Then that got replaced with a JVC unit which also ended up in my S6. Since I'm now installing another JVC unit, I could be lucky. And thanks, Chris300, even if they are a bit rounded, at least I should be able to wave them at a hardware store or local car stereo bod and ask "have you got one of these" which always helps.

Morning all, I don't suppose anyone knows (or has 2 spare) the spec of these radio fixing screws? (And why do people keep bodging their stereo installs when it's got a mount for the units and if you take the mount out properly, there's a lot more room to work?)

Said goodbye to it. . Even my better half (not as obsessed with cars as I) patted it on the wing and said "goodbye thou good and faithful servant" before I drove it down to the ferry to meet new owner. An ex-R32 owner so we've managed to get him away from the dark side :thumbup: Now then, what could ease the pain of selling my 3rd Z... BTW, thanks, Sudesh for selling it in 2011!

CK2 Cocoa Bronze Metallic with Z trim White Leather (although more like cream) was a factory combination. The white interior was only available on convertibles with leather seats. But you're right, that car was aftermarket white leather. You can tell because the seat handle is still black and the rest of the interior is black. The factory trim looks like this: More colour info: http://xenonzcar.com/z32/colorchart.html http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/FAQ/FAQpages/colors.html http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/1909473/Color--production-statistics.html

[ATTACH]118332[/ATTACH] As with any convertible hood, be careful, cautious, don't force anything: and fold it / unfold it carefully - if you have to force it, you're doing it wrong and something needs fixing. Don't damage anything by use of force - or, indeed, doing anything wrong. Close Top button (behind driver's seat) to release storage lid from car body, Pull storage lid up at the back toward the rear (the oval handles will be fragile) and then, when fully back, tilt the front edge upward to near-vertical. Pull the button release (looks a bit like the top of a golf tee - pull up) behind the driver's seat to release the hood frame. Use the hood latches to release hood handles both sides and swivel them to open position (check the actual hooks that connect the hood to the windscreen top each side). Unfold the hood from the storage compartment carefully - there is a handle in the middle.It will "Z" upward and unfold back over toward the windscreen. Gently ensure the front edge of the hood is in position. You may need to reach outside and pull down carefully on the hood frame to make sure the hook (when you close the handle) latches properly with the connector in the top of the windscreen. If you don't, you either won't secure it or break the connector. These are difficult to replace (Z1 Performance and ConceptZ may have stock). Lift up the rear edge of the hood frame so you can slide the storage lid back down toward the front engaging its guide wheels in the channels. Latch the storage lid back down in position. There's a latch each side/ Don't scratch it if you're wearing any rings (or anything) when you push down. Now latch the hood frame back into the latches in the storage lid - same applies, be careful and one each side. As with the opening procedure, get it right and there shouldn't be any "door open" warning light on the dashboard. You MUST make sure the top connector latches on the hood frame are secure in the connectors on the top of the windscreen frame. If not, DO NOT drive off until rectified - you don't want to risk the hood flying up at any speed -or at all.

300ZX Drophead hood open and close.pdf As with any convertible hood, be careful, cautious, don't force anything: and fold it / unfold it carefully - if you have to force it, you're doing it wrong and something needs fixing. Don't damage anything by use of force - or, indeed, doing anything wrong. Open Release top windscreen handles L & R (thumb latch and pull handle to right angles from hood frame) Bottom button behind driver's seat to release hood from storage lid. Lift back of hood to vertical (hinges forward). Top button behind driver's seat to release storage lid from car body. Pull storage lid backward (the oval handles can be fragile). When fully back, tilt front edge of the lid upward so the (now-vertical) hood can be laid back underneath the lid normal position. Gently pull the hood back from the front and collapse down into the space under the lid. The front part of the hood folds nearly completely backwards. Fold the rear window with care - don't crack it (especially when cold - best not drop the hood then to avoid damage). Push the hood frame down into the retaining locks either side - there will be a click. Return the hood handles from 90 deg back (as when released) back to normal position (pointing forwards). Slide the storeage lid cover gently back down the wheeled guides and latch it back down either side. If you've managed to do that, there won't be a "open door" warning light on the dash.

Wimp - you had another 9l left in the tank!

Thanks for that (and the diags), will have a look. The old feed was from ignition. I've been wading through the manual looking for electrical info on convertible but it's a long read :) According to both the parts fiche and the manual, the convertible could have rear speakers and also the Bose system. Had a look at mine and can't see any mounts/grilles for rear speakers.

On the parcel shelf. Can't see any other option. I have a loom for it (power, earth, on/off, pre-out L and R) which I took out of my first Z where it was in the boot. So plan is to run that under trim from behind the stereo as before. Still pondering: Is there an easy way to get under the parcel shelf - I am thinking about some tie-down straps to release the s/w and store it on the boot for security - also stop it slamming through the windscreen (velcro atm). Also is the cream trim from the shelf down to the centre console removable - I mean anything is "removable" but without damage and being able to put it back easily? Was thinking about hiding the loom run under there if so.

Thanks ianl. I guess it's only you and me bothered about convertible fuses :) And thanks for the suggestion about the s/w feed.

In my quest for a 10A supply for my subwoofer (still looking here if you can help), I've had a look at the footwell fuses and a few qs crossed my mind: I looked at the fuse translation here and found a US one: There's a 10A Audio 1 and a 20A Audio 2. Some Zeds had powered rear amp and some had Bose power amps. The convertible doesn't have rear speakers so I presume no rear amp. What do these 2 feed and what's the difference? There's no rear wiper so what's that 10A for? There are 2 x 20A Rear Defogger. Not on the convertible, there ain't so what are these for - the heated mirrors perhaps? 7.5A Passive Belt - eh? Be interesting to know. Thanks.

I have a powered subwoofer which I'm planning to bring back into service. Where's a good place to get 10A from? I'll use a 10A fuse inline as well. Thanks.

Hi, this is a forum for the Z32 300ZX. From the date, yours is a Z31. Different car entirely. You'll need to ask a specialist in Z31s. I tried your part number from a US source https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-infiniti-tube-assy-brake-46240-01p00_p_52953.php no luck - also from a Japanese source https://www.amayama.com/en/find?q=46240-01P00 also no luck. Best reach out to sites specialising in the earlier model. Try http://www.zhome.com/ to start but I am sure there are others. Good luck.

Hope google translate works. https://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?depth=1&rurl=translate.google.com&sl=ja&sp=nmt4&tl=en&u=http://www.zcar-owners.net/club/hikaku/wheel/wheel.htm&xid=25657,15700019,15700186,15700190,15700256,15700259,15700262,15700265&usg=ALkJrhi9tHHHyJF5am9dHGcsGGqgQZV0iQ Can't find any actual colour code for wheels.

I couldn't believe it when I turned up at Simply Japanese and saw you had a manual convertible as well! I'd only just agreed with my seller :) Jimmer told me that yours was in. Unfortunate but glad you're sorted now. Jimmer pointed out about the boot release - I thought it was bust d'oh. There are a number of solenoids in the roof cover - a set for the roof cover and a set for the roof - but I haven't worked out how to get at them to see what's graunching (I know it's the bottom button / roof release). A job for the weekend. Great fun, these convertibles.

2 serious questions: Despite the excellent info from AndrewG and Gaz_300, and a wade through the manual, I can't find any reference to the solenoid mechanisms in the storage lid that are controlled by the buttons - whether that's how to maintain / adjust the mechanism or how to remove the trim to get at them. If anyone knows different, a link would be great, thanks. Any suggestion for a convertible-friendly alarm. It's already got immobiliser and other stuff but I would like to be able to arm something without closing the roof. Remote unlock of doors and boot would be handy as well (I'm not just lazy, also avoids inadvertent key scratches). Fitter on or within easy reach of IoW would help as well Thank you kindly.

Yes but I think the silver one needs them. Haha. Fair point. When you say TT, I think in Japan, the TTs had 7.5" rather then the 8.5" everywhere else. But I did go through the wider wheel thing on my first Zed, found the 8.5" rims made no difference to tyre width and just made new tyre fitment more expensive/limited choice. So it's 7.5s all round for me. Good point, sensei, that's a philosophy with which I can agree.

So wait a sec - after 20 years on the straight and narrow sticking religiously to stock and OEM, being laughed at by the wheelerati, I finally get a Z with some young person's wheels on them and now I have to change back to OEM? Aaargh :surrender: :D

Thanks for those links, AndrewG & Gaz_300. Yes, that's the button at the top and when I got in this morning, had a look and thought "that looks like a mirror being heated up" :) Had a play with the hood buttons. The top one releases the cover (lid) from the body. The bottom one releases the hood itself from the cover {lid). So release the hood, lift it up forwards, then release the cover and hinge it backward so you can stow the hood beneath it. Both the solenoid mechanisms are in the cover. The top button/ cover release works fine. The bottom button/hood release also works (releases the hood) but makes a god awful graunching noise from the middle of the lid. Sounds like a worm drive mechanism skipping. I suppose I'd better get behind the trim and have a look.. I also found there is a built-in wind deflector ( I was wondering if it was an option or accessory but no, pull the loop and there it pops up!) and also a manual cover release so the heath robinson bodge with cable to do the same job and will be removed. It's still a Zed but has its own collection of little foibles slightly different to the coupe. What fun.

I like the colour but I have to admit my first thought was where can I get a set of OEMs! I'll live with them for a while and see what comes up. I thought I'd seen in a brochure somewhere that charcoal/grey was an option for OEM which should look quite nice. But then jimmer mentioned chrome finish and lo and behold, isn't that what's in the US brochure as posted by ianl? Hmmm. The OEM wheels were with the car in the auction advert (where the person I bought it from bought it) but when I asked her, she said she didn't have them.