Funkysi

Such a shame that it doesn't have the original spoiler on it. 2+2s look terrible without them. You want it all in tact for the price IMO as nice as it is.

I don't like anyone (person or company) who treat customers or friends with dishonesty and disregard, so no! :lol:

They do on here too! Didn't know they'd changed their name though; if they're under new management, they might be worth a punt as the previously named company was run by a couple of cock suckers.

Autos tend to be a little cheaper. Personally, having driven every variant fairly extensively, I'd hold out for a manual TT. £5k you should be able to find a fairly 'reasonable' one. You're unlikely to find a good UK example for that price not least because clean ones are as rare as hens teeth, nothing wrong with JDM imports though. £5k should get you a pretty clean auto TT import, but do hold out for that manual, it is so much nicer to drive. The biggest trouble these days is rust, even on Japanese imports as many have been over here for 15-20 years. Keep them garaged, clean and off the roads for the horrible salt-ridden winter and they'll stay very tidy. Avoid 89/early 90 cars which have soft valves in the heads. Avoid anything with too much rust or nasty bodykits. 93/94/95 (series 2 and 3) generally have the best spec, any newer and you're unlikely to find cars with electric seats, digital climate control or cruise control, earlier models had tweed seats which, to be frank, are awful to look at and to touch.

It doesn't have a decent underneath, it WILL need welding. I can't imagine the garage are going to correct that to a high standard, there'd be no margin in it. After reading this, I wouldn't go anywhere near if, especially if you can't weld as they're a complex structure. Reason(s) for failure Exhaust emissions Lambda reading after 2nd fast idle outside specified limits (7.3.D.3) Nearside Front Body or chassis has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings Inner/Outer sill area (6.1.B.2) Offside Front Body or chassis has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings Inner sill area (6.1.B.2) Nearside Rear Suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded Inner sill/ Floor area (2.4.A.3) Offside Rear Suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded Inner/ Outer sill area (2.4.A.3)

Christ, that's some history! For the price it's up for, I'd steer well clear of that! Its current failure points would have me running for the hills unless you were buying it purely as a fixer-upper. That's not a fixer-upper price though. Good Z32 prices have risen, granted, however not for high mileage accident damaged rot bags.

I'd spend PLENTY of time checking that car out for rust. @ 220k, it will highly likely have had structural welding carried out. Nothing especially wrong with this as many Z32s have suffered from rust, but any rust is costly to put right to a good standard, however check that any that's been done has been done to a high standard. The concerning parts at risk are sills, especially round the back, wheel arches, below the filler cap, inside arch, especially at the back bottom edge by the lower corner of the bumper, floor pan, tailgate, spare wheel well and strut tops. Radiator support is also another weak point however unless you remove the engine trays, you're unlikely to be able to see its condition too well, but shine a torch right down through the engine bay area at the front to see if you can see the condition. From the photos of it, it looks fairly clean, especially for the mileage, however I can see the return edges of the sills have been crushed for almost the entirety of the offside, nearside is slightly better but still looks like it has damage, the front bumper has definitely been painted, not something to worry about too much as most Z32s have been, just check it's been done well and wasn't done due to an accident. Aerial is not retracting fully and it doesn't have the correct spoiler. Probably been replaced due to rot (along with the tailgate which has the wrong tint glass on it, it should be blue, not bronze).

.....not the high mileage blue UK spec manual on ebay is it?

Hi and welcome! Good luck with the purchase. Can't say I recognise the number plate and I've been around for longer than most! Any photos of it?

Indeed - but steer clear of pintle injectors. Go with the 740s.

Before you so any of that, uprate the clutch and the brakes!

So who's going to supply all the chocolates and sweets!?!?!?!?!?!?!??!!??!

Original series 1 spoiler is sooooo nice. :)

Get a brake light in there, looks loads better!

Awesome Gary!!

Should have done that ages ago after you fitted those eBay rear light! :lol:

Like I said, it looks in good condition, but I am worried it's collapsed and lost strength and because I don't have a new one to compare it to, I'm asking the question as to whether anyone has fitted one and noticed any difference in acoustics....

Yes however on your post, why would I have bought a new one because of repaint? It's a simple press-fit seal not something that can only be removed when wanting a repaint.

Body seal peoples!! Yes it is one long peice.

You're as bad as Nick! :lol: I'm not talking about the glass seal!!!

But it's nothing to do with the screen....

I should do in the afternoon! I don't fly back until about 8 or 9! I'll be free from about 3 or 4. :)

Only over for the day, I have a meeting about 30 minutes west of Belfast.

I'm in Belfast on the 20th of next month. Might have me some of that! Those mushrooms though, they can go straight to the gates of hell! :lol:

How? Actually quite possibly the other way round..... 'A few disgruntled customers'? :lol: Damn! More like half his regular customer base, indeed his biggest spenders, many of whom were his friends.....and stealing? How do you reimburse stolen goods and deceit? Do tell who's been cutting corners, certainly not the specialist I use who has an impeccable reputation.