kaned

Sorry to jump on this late, but I should be there in the Z, I look forward to seeing you all there!

Those look like pretty good numbers for road. I don't find a bit of camber causes too much wear, but a tiny amount of toe will wear tyres very quickly, so just make sure that's well dialled in.

The screws are a Phillips No. 2 head, just for reference! Jeff, what is the general consensus of putting an injector in with a missing pintle cap as a last resort? I have one that Is healthy, but the pintle is missing.

I prepped to do it in the future as I've had a couple of injectors go lately. 2 is probably one of the best for access. The front left and the ones behind are more difficult because of the throttle bar bracket or fuel line!

Cheers for that! I'll try a carbide burr with a bigger air powered dremel. Going to prep all of the remaining injectors so they can be changed easily WHEN they go

After doing 2 injectors in the last few months, and still not finding a dremel bit that does the job easily, what have you guys found to be the best bit for the job? I've used emery cloth wheels and they are good, but you eat through so many of them! Stones seem to clog up with the aluminium because you can't get cooling to the area easily. Am I missing the magic bit that takes away the material but doesn't clog up? Any advice welcomed!

Hey guys, work has been busy so we haven't got any further with this at the moment, but it will get done eventually! Once the modelling is done, we should be able to knock a few of them up! Cheers for keeping interest in it! Kane

I've just fitted EVO brembo calipers to my car with a custom bracket for the 350z 324mm discs, and they're incredible in comparison to the very tired standard brakes. You won't be disappointed

So after some more tinkering and cleaning of electrical contacts, the car seems to be running much better. The PTU connections were particularly bad, and so I think that may have been the culprit. The spark plugs seem to be quite black, so I will be putting new ones in as a matter of course anyway. There is some black splattery soot from the exhaust, which seems to be unburnt fuel, but as I say the engine is pulling much better now...

Cheers guys, Jeff my car had some work done at zedworld before I owned it in 2010, including Cambelt.

Any info on the the workings of a nistune ECU and how to read codes would be great as I'm in the dark on that one! Is it an RS 232 lead that's is needed? I've checked the injectors, and one was reading around 20 ohms when hot, so I have changed that for a good one, but the problem didn't change. Coil packs appear to meter out OK, about 0.7 ohms. I will check the plug on the TPS for corrosion. Any advise would be welcome! Cheers guys!

Cheers for the reply, my car has a nistune ECU, which doesn't allow you to flash up codes, as I found when I tried to look! You think it may be coolant temp sensor? Would that be worth replacing as a precaution?

Here's the video http://youtu.be/NKQHYPzzrZ0

Ive been having a problem with the car being down on power, the last week or so. Every so often, it will go back to normal and pull well for a few minutes and then go back to lacking power. I have also noticed that the enginebehaves oddly when the throttle is 'blipped'. The revs will drop for a split second before going up. Also I've noticed that the boost pressure will only go to 3/4s of what it normally would. Can anyone suggest anything to check, would the TPS cause anything like this? PTU also? Injectors appear to be OK. Video to follow in a few mins

Glad to hear you found the cause, and no doubt learned plenty along the way! I bet it feels fast now you've got all six!

There's no leakage of fuel? You sure the Injector is right down?

It's not something I've ever checked with a multimeter, not sure what you should expect. Hopefully someone can help! I have only seen one checked with an inductive light tool.

A very worthwhile investment is a multimeter :)

While you had the connector off, did you manage to check the resistance of the the injector with an ohm-meter? Should be between 12 and 14 ohms.

A simple way to check an injector, is to put a the tip of a long handles screwdriver on the injector cap and the handle on your ear, A good injector will have a really positive 'TICK' (try it on one you know is working) a bad injector will make no sound (you will hear some slight ticking through from the other injectors). A final test is to check the resistance of the injector - A healthy one will be between 12 and 14 ohms. Check out the 'Dremel method' of removing an injector - I had to do my second one yesterday, but makes life so much easier than removing the plenum. good luck!

I had the same symptoms with mine, and it also turned out to be the speed converter. I removed it and I'm currently running on KPH, so I get the speed 'bong' noise over 100kph. Problems solved though, hope it is as easy for you. Excellent guide here for removing the cluster...http://http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/tech/meterunit/cluster.htm

I'll have to try and check the offset later on, I'll get a photo up. Looking at EVO brembo and theres a few around for reasonable prices... It's when you add up discs, pads, lines, and brackets being made (and that's without a rebuild kit) 900 for ksport kit brand new does t look far off haha!

I haven't measured it, but visually probably 5mm, I'll have to check when I'm home, would the 350z calipers fit, as I know they are much larger?

Hi all, I realise this topic has been talked about hundreds of times, but I'm after a front brake kit for the Nissan. I has pretty much decided I was going for a 330mm Wilwood kit because it perfectly fit the spec I was after. When I enquired about the wilwood kit, it seems they aren't making them any more, and only the 345 kit is available, which won't fit under 17 inch wheels! The next price up is either D2 or ksport brakes (essentially the same) but that's really stretching my budget! Anyone got any ideas for a 330mm kit to fit under 17"s? I'm a little worries about the cost of replacing pads in the ksports/d2s, any experiences of this? Cheers!

So the 'prototype' is finished, and the brakes feel much better than they did before. Much less spongy, I think next on the list will have to be braided brake lines. Now on to making a 'pretty' version of the brace... I'll keep you all updated!