kaned

With both of them out, it will be causing your problem. Also, with you saying you're driving with the wheel at 1o'clock to compensate, the HICAS will be trying to 'help you' at higher speeds, and so may be exaggerating the problem. Let us know how you get on, it's just a process of changing bit-by-bit until it goes away really :)

I would definitely say 2deg out will certainly be noticeable when the car is on flat ground. I've recently sorted out a long running camber issue with my car, that the previous 2 owners couldn't figure out. Mine was 2.2degrees out, and pulled to the left, as well as scrubbing the inside of the tyre. What you need to work out is what part is out bent or worn. The annoying thing with camber, is that so many parts have an effect on the camber it's hard to tell which bit is causing it. With the car on flat ground, look down side of the car, and see where the front wheel sits in the arch. 2.2 degrees on mine meant that the top of the wheel was about an inch further in-board of the arch that the 'correct' side. Once I noticed it, you didn't need any tools to see something wasn't right! I have since fitted Adjustable top camber arms to compensate, and now the car runs so much better. It's advisable to replace the front tension rods when replacing the top camber arms, because replacements have bearings that don't like the side-ways movement of the big rubber bush on the original tension rod puts on it. Japspeed sell both bits, but they can be found a fair bit cheaper on 'the bay' Hope I've helped and not confused you by my ramblings! good luck!

Cheers guys, I'mm have a drive over the weekend and attempt to not us the breaks and coast to a stop after a few mins. They seem to be getting really hot, even on a couple of mile run without any really heavy breaking. Will let you know the findings of the 'no-brake' drive. :)

Wow cheers guys, seem to have started a pretty interesting debate here, had a blank made up today, so will have a go testing it in the coming week. The reason I'm after testing, is that under boost, you can really hear air somewhere, and I think it's louder than it should be? Anyways, a test will rule that out! While you tech guys are around... Is it common of the front brakes to get really hot under normal operation? The pistons don't seem overly sticky, and can be move by pushing with your hands, yet the pads do seem to to run on the disk... Cheers guys! - - - Updated - - - Wow cheers guys, seem to have started a pretty interesting debate here, had a blank made up today, so will have a go testing it in the coming week. The reason I'm after testing, is that under boost, you can really hear air somewhere, and I think it's louder than it should be? Anyways, a test will rule that out! While you tech guys are around... Is it common of the front brakes to get really hot under normal operation? The pistons don't seem overly sticky, and can be move by pushing with your hands, yet the pads do seem to to run on the disk... Cheers guys!

Hi all, going to get a boost leak tester made up tomorrow, I've read of two methods of doing the test... Can I just attach the airline end to where the MAF sensor is and pressurise? or do you need to remove the hoses from the throttle bodies and put blanking plugs in each one? OR are both methods just as good as each other? Thanks in advance! Kane

Thanks for the advice Si, I have orders some tension rods anyway to try and cure the brake-shake. With the adjustable arms, I have managed to get the car running straight and true, so I'm happy with that! On to the new problem of binding brakes!! Thanks for your help everyone!

Cheers guys, I've had the front upper camber arms out today, and there is some slight play in the joint but not actually as much as I was expecting. Some of the bolts were.... difficult to undo, and I ended up grinding one of the lower 14mm mount nuts off, so I'm after a couple of replacements, I'll post a wanted add... I've bought some adjustable upper camber arms as the first step to try and eliminate this camber problem, and see where we go from there... I can see it being some lower control arms and tension rods too.... All part of buying a new car I keep telling myself :) Thanks for the help so far!

Hi All, Having owned my Z for 7 days now, I'm still in the process of trying to iron out any problems before the really bite me in the butt! I took the car for wheel alignment today, because the steering wheel wasn't quite sitting true in a straight line, which may have been throwing the HICAS out. The wheel now sits straight so that's one part ironed out... While it was up on the ramp for alignment, I noticed the drivers side front has a fair amount more negative camber than the nearside. The pictures aren't all that clear, but the drivers side wheel is a good inch further in at the top than the passenger side. This is confirmed by a worn tyre on the inside edge. offside Nearside What do I need to be looking at tomorrow when I get the car up on jacks? Other symptoms include vibration at 65ish, which I had put down to wheel balance Vibration under high speed breaking, which I had assumed was warped rotors. Any other suggestions on this would also be appreciated. Hoping to get this car handling the way I know it should!

When you put it like that, it makes sense. In reality I wouldn't be using the Z for long journeys anyway, and the electric seats are novel, but unnecessary. The boost gauge would have been nice to at least check the health, but I guess an aftermarket one isn't particularly difficult to fit. Cheers for that perspective on it anyway, made me realise what I really want from this car... :) Kane

I had a look at this yesterday, and although it runs very well, seems to be possibly the most basic model they made? It didn't have Cruise control, Climate control, Leather, Electric seats, or Boost gauge. Mechanically the car was very good, and would clean up well, but I'm on the look out for one with a few more extras I think!