Royal

Lmao! I think it would have eaten your leg then your nose!

Doesn't sound like turbo seal, there would be loads of smoke out the exhaust (and engine out pricey job). Sounds more like an oil feed/return pipe as lymon says, maybe the one to the oil cooler?

Its normal for you to beat them!

I've always left the gearbox in. Just needed to swing the engine forward slightly to dis-engage it and go around the steering column. Its not going to lift the car but remember to unplug the oil pressure sender from the bottom of the engine. I can't think what it could be? is the drivers side turbo catching on the steering column?

Check this out, I shamelessly nicked it from the mazda forum becuase I havn't got the imagination to think up my own threads. :wack: :dance: :tongue: Look at the size of this bear!! A mate sent this to me in an email from the states. Read the writing below first before looking at the pics!! The following (first two) pictures are of a guy who works for >>the US Forest Service in Alaska and his trophy bear. >> >> He was out deer hunting last week when a large grizzly bear >>charged him from about 50 yards away. >> >> The guy unloaded his 7mm Mag Semi-automatic rifle into the bear >>and it dropped a few feet from him. The big bear was still alive so he >>reloaded and shot it several times in the head. >> >> The bear was just over one thousand six hundred pounds. It stood >>12' 6" high at the shoulder, 14' to the top of his head. It's the >>largest grizzly bear ever recorded in the world. >> >> Of course, the Alaska Fish and Wildlife Commission did not let >>him keep it as a trophy, but the bear will be stuffed and mounted, and >>placed on display at the Anchorage airport (to remind tourist's of the >>risks involved >> when in the wild). >> >> Based on the contents of the bears stomach, the Fish and >>Wildlife Commission established the bear had killed at least two humans >>in the past 72 hours. >> His last meal was the unlucky nature buff in the third picture. >> >> The US Forest Service, backtracking from where the bear had >>originated, found the hiker's 38-calibre pistol emptied. Not far from >>the pistol was the remains of the hiker. The other body has not been >>found. Although >> the hiker fired six shots and managed to hit the grizzly with >>four shots they ultimately found four 38 calibre >> slugs along with twelve 7mm slugs inside the bear's dead body. >> >> It only wounded the bear and probably angered it. The bear >>killed the hiker an estimated two days prior to the bear's own death by >>the gun of the Forest Service worker. >> >> Think about this - If you are an average size man; You would be >>level with the bear's belly button when he stood upright, the bear would >>look you in the eye when it walked on all fours! >> >> To give additional perspective, consider that this particular >>bear, standing on its' hind legs, could walk up to an average single >>story house and look over the roof, or walk up to a two story house and >>look in the bedroom windows.

I havn't seen another zed for ages down here. Yours looks awesome in that phot on your sig mate!

Mess with his pride and joy tree and he'll mess with your pride and joy Zed! :(

Jesus christ, thats ridiculous!

How to diagnose and bypass a defective detonation sensor in a 90+ Nissan 300 ZX Twin turbo. By Henri Le Hir My Z is a 1992, "Continental European" Nissan 300 ZX Twin Turbo, 2+2 (!!) (left hand drive). All the tests have been done on this car. Hopefully, this applies to all the Z32 all over the world. Special thanks to the "Jim Wolf Technology" Team, as Jim and Clark helped me understand a few technical points about this problem. You probably have a failing detonation sensor if... * When the car is warm, you only get about 7 PSI of boost. * You put the ECU in test mode, and you get the dreaded code 34 (bad or missing detonation sensor). If you don't know how to put your ECU in test mode, go there..... Twin Turbo Zs of Dallas (excellent site, with a lot of accurate technical info) Tools required : * A multitester (continuity tester, ohm meter). First of all, locate the detonation sensor connector. Let's get closer. And even closer. Now, unplug the connector. The part that is "free to move", is going towards the ECU. The part of the connector that stays on the engine block is going to the detonation sensor. During all the following part, it's assumed that your car is a STOCK one, and that there are no special surgery done with the ECU. If you ever tried to fix the problem yourself, cutting ECU wires, splicing connections, or whatever, REVERT everything back to the stock configuration before proceeding. Do the following tests : Using the multitester as an ohm-meter, test the connections going to the ECU. * One of the wire going to the ECU should be connected to the "ground" of the engine. (a good "ground" can be found on any metallic part of the intake manifold) * The second wire going to the ECU should have about 500 k Ohm resistance when tested towards the "ground" of the engine. * One of the wire doing to the detonation sensor IS NOT CONNECTED (both US and EUROPEAN manuals are saying "connected to the ground", I've found this incorrect while testing the connection, as well as looking at the wiring diagram of the harness) * The second wire should display about 1 meg Ohm resistance. If you have a problem with one of the wires going to the ECU * You're lucky.... * Check the wires between the ECU and the connector, at most, replace them. If you have a problem with one of the wires going to the detonation sensor * You're NOT lucky. * Re-check the wires, one of them is NOT connected. If you still have a problem with one of the wires ...You have the following options.. * Get your engine fixed by Nissan. This requires the removal of the engine, as the detonation sensor is located on the engine block, under the intake manifold.This requires time, so it's quite expensive. But it's what you should do. * Follow the bypassing procedure. WARNING : If Nissan's engineers decided to intall a detonation sensor on the VG30DETT engine, it's because they have a whole bunch of good reasons to do it. If you decide to follow the "bypass the detonation sensor" instructions, your ECU won't be able to "listen" to detonation anymore, and that could cause the destruction of your engine....you've been warned. First of all, an additional test to be sure. Required material : * A one mega ohm resistor (1000 k ohm), should be able to find it at your local electronic shop (shouldn't cost more than a few cents), or recycle an old one. The one I used in my car is coming from an 18 years old TV set. Actions : * Reset your ECU (to delete all error codes). * Plug the detonation sensor back. * Start your engine for 10-30 seconds...stop your engine (so the ECU will analyse the car). * Double check that you indeed have that code 34 showing up again. o If you don't have the code 34 showing up, STOP IMMEDIATELY. Several things can trigger a "fail safe mode", a bad detonation sensor being ONE of them. Instead of "playing" with your engine, e-mail me with the symptoms, and I'll try to do a remote diagnostic. * Reset the ECU (to delete all error codes). * Install the one meg ohm resistor on the ECU side of the connector, as if you would make a short circuit with it. Do NOT use a plain wire, it won't work. * Start your engine for 10-30 seconds. * Stop your engine. * Check the ECU code, you should get code 55 (all's fine folks). If you still have a code 34, then the problem is NOT your detonation sensor. Either the wires going to the ECU are defect, or the resistor you've been using is NOT one megohm. At this point, you will have to decide if you'll have your engine repaired (IMHO, the right thing to do), or fix it. Bypassing the detonation sensor Ok, you're still with me, so you take full responsabilities about the possible consequences of the installation. Required material : * The abovementioned one meg ohm resistor. * Some electrical tape. * A Swiss army knife or equivalent. * A soldering iron (gas, or car battery operated being a plus), and some solder. Actions : * On the ECU part of the connector, remove the stock electrical tape to have an easier access to the wires * Using the Swiss army knife, gently cut the insulation of the two wires. Do NOT cut the wires. Try NOT to remove the insulation at the same distance of the connector, to avoid a shortcut. * Using the soldering iron, permanently solder the one megohm resistor between these two wires * Re-apply electrical tape to prevent corrosion. * Re-plug the connector. * Start your engine for 10-30 seconds. * Stop your engine. * Check the ECU code, you should get code 55 (all's fine folks). Note : The way the resistor is installed, if the detonation sensor suddenly re-starts working (due to an intermittent problem), the car will immdiately go back in "fail safe mode", and it's exactly what I want. If you don't want this, then you can either leave the connector unplugged, or cut the wire(s) going to the detonation sensor. It's now time to test-drive your Z. As an insufficient engine temperature can trigger a fail safe mode as well, you need to have the engine warm, and then go for it. At that point, you should get your full boost back. If you still don't have full boost, check your ECU again. If you have a code 55 (all's OK), then it means that your Safe Boost Solenoid Valves might be defective. They could be defective because "someone" cut a wire at the ECU not fully understanding all the relevant issues, or that the ECU is defect, or that the Valves themselves are out. But there are as well other possible causes of a "fail safe mode" Anyway, at that point, you should read the "how to install an electronic boost controller in a 90+ Z" (coming soon), and probably buy an EVC as well. Zee you Written by H. Le Hir / 980325@00:51 e

whats your email? I'll send the files to you (not sure of the link)

I agree with you there Rich. There's just nothing whatsoever to warrant buying a new car and watching 3k depreciation as you leave the forecourt! I drove past a ford garage with the missus the other day and they had the Ford Ka in there for 12k or something stupid like that. Its amazing I was driving a 340rwhp zed for less than half the price of those ford heaps!

Depends on the condition and whats been replaced mate, its hard to see in the phot. They seem to be getting 3-4k ??? but not shifting very easily.

I agree with Jason in that the 300 has the looks of a 'real' sports car. I must admit though the more I read about different cars the more respect I've got for the 350Z. I'd like to drive one to see how it compares. Every respected magazine rates the 350z as one of the best handling sports cars around. I bought Evo mag today and it compares the 350Z with the latest Audi TT and the 350Z rates much better. I think people just focus on the fact that the 300 is more powerful (topgear race thing). Saying that though if you look in the 'knowledge' section at the back where it lists all the cars it says this about the 300zxTT: 'plus points: Best ever driver's nissan bar the skyline. minus points: not much' Can't get much better than that eh?

I didn't know that :cool: Arn't zeds still quite pricey in the states. Apollo was saying in Canada they are up to 15k

Nice work! and all for a fiver! Not sure if you are talking about a different bit but lots of people do the mod to miss out all the little pipes on the throttle bodies for this reason.

Hello :dance:

I've got two sets! One pair was given away on here for free :) If your tyres are good then sell them for what you think the tyres are worth.

Wow, its a fair bit of power loss when you think people spend hundreds on an exhaust and induction to get less of a gain than that drop.

Thats what drinking homebrew does for you!

You'll be happy to know its nice and sunny here then :) . Although I'm stuck in studying as usual (got a cisco exam on thursday)

It reseals the pistons in the caliper. Pretty cheap kit, you can get it from the traders on here (its a standard nissan kit I think). Try a search as I think I've seen pictures of people doing it.

That would be good. I work in Maidstone but havn't been out there so don't know about the pubs. Sure it'll be pretty civilised compared to Plymouth and Poole when I was in the Marines though! (Poole was quite good actually, but Plymouth is a bit of a hole!)

Sticky calipers? need a reseal kit.

Looks about right mate. They're designed for 6 inch tall japs with size 1 1/2 feet :) . Also so you can heel and toe it.

Weehee, good luck! I'm set for a nice drive tonight I reckon. Want to meet somewhere in the middle? say the midlands? lol