Peage

Is that the actual small t-top strips or the long one that winds around the door too?

Came across this a while back which you might find helpful but it doesnt cover the stripes specifically. Post 53: Replica Label Review | Z32 - Enjoy the Ride (wordpress.com)

View Advert LWB Boot Carpet I am looking for a LWB Boot Carpet, if anyone has one spare that they would sell? Advertiser Peage Date 05/07/22 Price Category Parts - Wanted

Thank you. Great info.

Recently had my front upper control arms powder coated and am aware they are handed. I hole punched the left one so I could identify it. However, I was wondering what the actual difference is between them as I cannot tell from a quick look. I was wanting to double check I had it right.

Do you mean the air filter box? If so, send me a PM as I have one.

Very nice. I came across their other Z32 parts in the past and was impressed. I hope they sell well for them to justify the investment.

Ok so I purchased Datascan to get more info on the sensors and power steering related items. All the relevant sensors are reporting in okay and seem to be functional. I had a question around the power steering solenoid though. My outputs are below: Engine Off: Engine On: I don't really know what the metric is for the power steering solenoid value. I was wondering if anyone knew whether 1.05 for engine off and falling to 0.25 at engine on and stationery is normal?

The HICAS light is on unless I disconnect the smaller HICAS connector on the control module but I understood that was normal when deleting the HICAS solenoid and it would illuminate in the case of low fluid at the reservoir with the HICAS connector disconnect - which it does not. I assume from that the float switch is okay. I was thinking similar that it must be something else but also have a nagging thought the pump died from iffy bleeding initially and then running the engine up... Not sure. The pump had its noisy moments in the past but has always functioned.

Not much of a review because I have not driven the car on the road yet but I recently replaced my leaking BMC with the HFM part with the larger bore piston. Quality of the part looked great but cannot speak to improvement of brake feel yet unfortunately.

Yes definitely used ATF to fill it up. More of the same of what was in there prior to the delete. I am now wondering whether it is just the pump has a problem and needs replacement.

Just heavy. Not noticing any notchiness to it. Really scratching my head with it now!

Thanks Andrew. I've just realised actually that the failsafe valve is at the rear of the car so as I have bypassed the lines the to rear, it's impossible for the car to go into failsafe? So I am dropping that idea for now.

I dropped it back onto its wheels today but still the same symptoms. This was after a whole bunch of extra bleeding too. I have double checked the HICAS bypass fitting and all seems well there. I am wondering if it's in failsafe mode as per the workshop manual which results in "heavy steering operation". Apparently it will drop into this if any of the following are not being fed correctly to the power steering controller: speed sensor, foot brake signal, parking brake signal & neutral position switch. I was hoping free Conzult would tell me the status of these this but all those things are greyed out so looks like I'll need the paid version. Does anyone know the best way to get a license for Conzult these days?

Looks so much better! Did you stick with the Evo brembos in the end then?

Not daft at all as I was wondering the same thing. I did some bleeding before turning it around. I have since done a whole lot more again, both my turning the steering wheel and then forcing the wheels lock to lock rapidly by holding the wheels themselves. I noticed no air when doing the method holding the wheels themselves, just surging and some overflowing of fluid from the reservoir when really pumping the wheel. I won't know whether the extra bleed has helped until the wheels are back on the ground. I have some other bits I need to get sorted before that happens though. Fingers crossed.

Wow what a car - great choice.

Going to be like an all new car when complete. Paint looks great mate.

Powder coating should be more than heat resistant enough for your engine bay. They literally bake the powder on.

Wow that's cheap. Thanks.

I will have to remember this service for when I get mine back on the road. Does the club have any recommended brokers too?

Just bumping this old topic to say thanks for this idea. Finally getting round to begining to implement it.

Just tried with the smaller connector unplugged and this did stop the HICAS light but didn't make a difference to the power steering. I should also add that it's not no PS at all, like I first said and assumed. I wasn't really concentrating on diagnosing this at the weekend - more getting the car turned around. It's easier to turn than with the engine off... But very heavy.

Currently, yes. Both connectors are connected to the HICAS control unit. I have seen some chat about fixing the HICAS light but retaining PS fluid warnings by disconnecting one of the two connectors - I think the smaller one? I have not seen anyone mention failure to do this would cause no power steering though. I plan to try that this week though in the hopes it may fix my problem.

Concept Z Performance are in Phoenix aren't they? I know they have a shop aswell as supplying parts. You should try them.