redwine300

WOW!! Unfortunately not, but I wish I was.

As I mentioned earlier in the post, I believe the first place to start would be with the basics. The fundamental reason for high CO % is either low air to fuel ratio, (ie too much fuel and too little air) A close second may be down to poorly burnt fuel mixture that could arise from poor ignition timing. In addition to these there are more complicated possible causes, such as valve timing etc' all of which collectively or singularly could be the problem. I think a thorough check of these initial setting would be worth a try. Unfortunately, it maybe a process of elimination I'm afraid.

Was this CO 5% recorded at idle or at a higher rpm? The reason I ask is, I believe your car, due to it's age should only be tested at idle.

As Gary says above. Also, clean and buff the surface up. that way you stand a better chance of seeing the centre of the bolt more clearly.

So he will not have to improve the CO 5% reading? I was lead to believe that the alternative test required a reading of below CO 3.5% . Looks like I am getting the run-around from my current MOT tester, time to go to Zedworld me thinks.

Wise words there Andyzx. I too was unsure as to exactly what the cause of may noisy door was. so as the door card was off at the time, I decided to pack the glass out with a bit of sponge with the window down and shut the door. Sounded really nice. It looks like Nissan fitted some sort of soft pad to the frame so as to help dampen the effect of the glass coming into contact, I guess over 21 years of use it must have disintegrated.

Bit of a thread cross over me thinks? :lol: :whistling: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?167779-What-a-terrible-day-zed-viewing-(-(

Looks like you will be busy then guy's!

Sorry to hear that Gary. As you say, lets hope it is not too bad a job to get fixed.

http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=7059&Car_Type=NIS300&UID=201302160735452.24.143.195 http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=9591&Car_Type=NIS300&UID=201302160735452.24.143.195 http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=4924&Car_Type=NIS300&UID=201302160735452.24.143.195 http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=726&Car_Type=NIS300&UID=201302161005382.24.143.195 I have the same problem, Will be replacing the the glass guide rollers as above, should solve the rattle and closure problems I hope.

I your car as standard or has it had any performance tweaks? If so, may be worth listing them. Personally, I would start with the basics, such as air filters and ignition timing. Also, may be worth checking base idle and TPS settings, all of which may have an adverse affect on emissions. A good place to start at least.

How did it go guys?

Good luck with the MOT for tomorrow!

Welcome to the forum mate.

Very nice! Hopefully mine will look that good one day.

Not sure of this, but may be relevant. I seem to recall reading that during the bleeding process, the systems electronic pump is set running. I think this is achieved by way of a plug n play type unit. I guess that without this, the pump could be fooled the run some other way. Again, not sure though.

Looks stunning!! The car's not bad either.:lol:

Totally agree! Viscous fan all the way, so long as they are operating correctly that is. Some can appear to be drawing air when rotating, but in reality, they are merely rotating due to drag. When fully engaged, (once the engine is exceeding operating temperature.) you should be able to hear a positive roar of air being pulled through the blades. As the car speed passes 30 or 40 mph the fan will gradually revert back to drag until such time as the engine temp requires it to cut back in. say in traffic for example.

Noooo don't do it. I am sure you will track down the gremlins soon. Once you have, you will enjoy the full joy of your zed once again.

I'm so jealous Richard. I am going to have to wait until May the first to experience the same buzz. Thinking of taxing and insuring mine for 12 months next time. This 6 months sorn malarkey Is blxxdy murder!

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?158042-Drivers-targa-pipe-fix This may be of help.

Firstly, welcome to the forum. Maybe worth pulling fuses from the panel in the drivers footwell so as to isolate the circuit. Sounds like a possible targa drain leak maybe causing a short.

Agreed, I recently addressed a light bubble, turned out be a lot worse than I imagined once I started delving. It was a nightmare!

Glad to hear you got it sorted mate. enjoy!

Did mine on axle stands in the garage, after about three days of wrestling on my own to get the sub frame out, replacing the brake lines was not to bad. Such a relief once it was done mind.