lonezedder

The stock bushes seem to be only available if you buy the complete arms with them already in and this is what makes it so expensive.

Personally, I happen to think they handle quite nicely, especially when you consider the mileage and wear a lot of these cars are now carrying. I would imagine when they new the whole car would have been noticeably tighter too. The SWB car does seem to add an extra dose of sportiness as well. I'll probably bite the bullet and fit the full ES rear kit, the front already has new OEM upper & lower arms plus new OEM drop links. The tension rod, steering and Front ARB bushes are new ES items. New track rod ends fitted, that covers the front I think. I'll always stick to a standard type of spring & shock this should help with the comfort factor.

TBH there seems to be a limited options regarding a full re-bush of our cars. Many of the Nismo bushes are obsolete, the OEM option seems that you'd have to buy the complete arms to get the bushings - not available separately and this means big £. Other poly bush suppliers don't seem to completely cover the car and are far more expensive. The ES option certainly covers the whole car and at a very sensible cost too, sadly though there is no apparent hardness options. Hmmm.

I have just read up on ES bushes. Apparently there is no difference in hardness between the two colours. Interesting comment Car.Mad, so in your opinion the ES bushes ruin the car? What's the other options?

Thanks Dan, I knew you had done yours, but like you say you've only driven it round the block! As for the hard work part, I know that too! Thankfully there is a very nice chap on here I can pay to do it for me!:D Anyone else that's done a few miles on ES bushes?

Now then Chaps! Looking to completely re-bush the rear end of my Zed shortly. This will include the sub-frame, diff carrier, all rear arms as well as new bottom arm ball joints and possibly the HICAS bushes depending on their condition. The ES bush sets look the best value for money, my only concern is for the ride quality. I don't mind it firming up a bit, but I don't wish to completely trash the ride. I'm running OEM springs and shocks and will never uprate the spring or damper rate so that should help. Can anyone running a fully ES polybush rear end comment on the general quality of ride and handling please. Also is there any difference in firmness between the colours of the bushes? ES offer red or black. Any other comments welcomed. Thanks...:)

True, but doubt many would spend 5k for the summer then be happy to sell for 2.5k without even trying to get more? There are a handful that keep cropping back up after recently changing hands, I'd be wary myself. My current Z has passed through many hands, the last owner only had it 3 months before I bought it (foolishly), needless to say it was riddled with many faults, some quite expensive to sort as well. Doesn't matter now, I've bought and I'll stick with it and do what the others weren't prepared to do which is spend money on sorting it out properly instead of glossing over the issues. Buyers beware!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/nissan-300-zx-twin-turbo-/221566037888?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item33965d6f80 And seller taking a big hit on what he paid! Quite a few cars keep reappearing on the bay of late after just a few months of ownership. Makes you wonder.:confused1:

When I first got mine, I couldn't get it to connect to the car. Another driver was required that wasn't supplied on the CD. Might have just been my laptop, but if you have problems, let me know, I'll send you a copy of the driver.:)

Yes, good call on the brakes...

Or stop being a girl and hold the steering wheel tighter, stop worrying about it! :tt2: :thumbup1:

The locking collars are only to lock the sub-frame tight to the car to effectively delete the sub-frame bushes, not sure if they were knackered that you'd get that torque steer. Normally torque steer is FWD only, if your car has a NA rear then you have no rear steer. Strange, maybe one of the rear shocks is duff. Failing that I wonder if the diff could cause this problem if its going duff, driving one wheel really strong and not the other, but then I'd expect masses of wheel spin - probably not!

As said above, torque steer is normally a FWD car trait. but the Z has rear wheel steering, so I would be looking at the rear suspension components in particular the HICAS parts, the steering arms and outer HICAS bushes as if some thing here is worn its going to allow the wheels to turn slightly probably more under heavy acceleration. Jack the rear up under the diff and have a good waggle of the wheels...

Yes, it could be the actual speed sensor itself, I'm sure these can be tested as well. Do another search...

I don't know for sure, but I'm pretty confident the answer will be no. You can fit aftermarket wheels and lose the airbag, but finding a compatible wheel with an airbag system that will connect to our old stuff is unlikely. IIRC someone as fitted a 350Z wheel at some point, but the airbag is not connected. Could be wrong though. For what its worth I like the airbag wheel on the Z, keep it, there rare enough as it is.

The one that worked for me was.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OBD-14-Pins-USB-Diagnostics-Scan-Tool-Interface-1989-2000-DDL-For-Nissan-Consult-/161373715332?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item25929f7b84 But this is just a cable to connect to your laptop. There is some free software with it, but I decided to purchase the full version of Nissan DataScan which is pretty good. The full version of Consult is much more expensive software, obviously better, but consider if you really need it and how often you might use it. I think Nissan DataScan is all you will need for most issues.

http://www.zcentre.co.uk/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.pbv.tpl&product_id=52&category_id=55&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=7

+1 Why is the Skyline generally regarded better than the Z32? It certainly isn't better to look at. I thought back in the day, the 300zx was higher up the food chain? Always really liked the Skyline mind.

^^^ this is true, but whilst the problem is hidden, its not a problem if you understand. Fact is that some people do fit decat pipes to find the turbo/s start to smoke due to lack of back pressure. The sudden lack of back pressure allows a poorly turbo seal to pass and smoke. You might find this embarrassing, it might effect MOT emission testing, causing you to spend money that wasn't needed at THAT time. True, your already poorly turbo may have started to smoke soon enough anyway, but it might have done several more thousand miles without as well which to some Zed owners is years of ownership! My experience with an Astra mk4 turbo was the opposite to Znuts, within minutes of fitting a decat and cat back exhaust the dam thing started to smoke, only at idle mind, the difference being the engine didn't require removing to replace the dam thing and there was only one turbo. End of the day, fit a decat, if it smokes try replacing the PCV's, failing that, if replacing the tubs is out of the question, refit the cats and it will probably band-aid the tubs again.

IMO, its this type of Zed that are keeping these cars at shed level money, utter garbage, money spent in all the wrong places. Never ceases to amaze me why people don't clean the inside of their cars before taking advertising pictures.

Consider though that sometimes it's better the devil you know! My current SWB car isn't a patch on my previous LWB car. Well not yet anyway! And I've already noticed that getting spares for the SWB is definitely a bit harder being a lot rarer than the LWB car. Decisions, decisions!:confused1:

Get the version you want before you plough too much money into the current one that then makes it unfeasible to change it! Have you been in a shorty to personally compare one to a LWB car?

I'd just like to say that changing the front rack bushes is a really pain in the arse!:mad: It took just a couple of hours to replace the front & rear drop links & also the front ARB bushes. It took a whole lot longer to replace the rack bushes, or should I say the rack bush. The passenger side takes 15minutes to replace, the drivers side is the problem. Very awkward, getting the old bush out was a PITA, fitting the new one was a PITA, getting the bracket back on was a PITA!:cursing: The only tip I have is to leave the passenger side unbolted as it allows the rack a small amount of movement which helps only a little. Ah well, another couple of jobs well done, slow but sure.:)

Ok, please tell me what you've done so far that hasn't cured the problem!:( Its not causing any real problem other than it sounds pants and spoils the driving experience!

Thanks Jeff. Would it still make the noise even if the clutch pedal is fully released? This noise occurs with the clutch fully engaged, pedal fully released, not during release if you understand. Any time the engine is labouring at these revs in any gear.