MarkDerby

nothing yet ... waiting on the Engineers to sort my block/crank out

the only item thats t28 is the main core ... the exhaust and comp covers would remain the same .. just recut to take the bigger turbine wheels .. how ever this all so has draw backs as the Flow rate will be restricted to the Original covers ... the t28 tub will have bigger exhaust and comp housings its a good upgrade for 90% of drivers out there but not a true turbo All turbos that are sold on the shelf are set to a standard ... only cars on V engine twin tub have there tubs clocked to suit the car .. to buy Original T28s you will need 5 bolt turbo down pipes Passenger side will need clocked to 70* and a new Act Mount making at a 45* angle

have you flushed the rad out see if any gunk crap comes out ...

to what i seen of the car .. well she needs a new tail gate .. not worth the repair on it and if the Sills are ok then sort out any little dints and respray will bring that bk to stretch oh and some TLC in the engine bay the adjuster sits just under the alternator .. Loosen the Main 17mm Pivot bolt loosen the 12mm adjuster lock nut then on the end of the adjuster there is the 12mm Bolt/hex to move the alt in/out tighten the belt and lock off the main 17mm and adj nut

squeaking belt is the Main one for alt/pump just tighen it up on the adjuster the sound your talking about looked like it was with the same time as the Vac gauge doing down @ 2.00m in .. the other other thing that could make that sound at the bk there is fuel pump or abs unit

Done

what u posted up

its only 400lph at zero PSI .. around 320 @ 60psi

here ya go

lol dont know but looks like i have to make a bracket .. gimmy 5 mins will get a pic up

do you have Cats still on the car ? as you said there is two different sounds coming from the exhaust system ... if u do you could have a blocked/collapsing cat and this would all so give you false readings on the O2 banks

this is the one i got 320lph + up to 1000bhp http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=6907&Car_Type=300&UID=2013030712591090.214.49.195

lol yeah with the US i got more power than anyone has car

the USa guys say up to 650 there abouts

oh the joys of organising events :)

yes your partly right .. it will amplifie the input signal but the Main output of amp its self is only 20>25watts all your doing is Over driving the Gain input with the Head units output ( original designed for 10>15watt input of the old style HU Hence it seems like its louder than fronts but u will find it will Distort with very little effort .. and thats why u have to use your fader to Lower the volume to balance the audio out and all so you run a high risk of damaging your Rear output channels of the head unit

belts and lower pulley off m8 ...

if u can see it .. some blue tac on a long stick .. other than that if u can not see it .. the lower cover will have to come off

there are tools expensive ones you can use to change steam seals/springs with the heads in place... but like Mattin just said .. take heads off is fare better and makes it loads easer to work on

easy once u have taken Heads off cams off valves/springs off then u can remove them and replace

nice .. thought we get there :)

yes .. i thought u was talking about the little black plug on the HU its self

ok the 2 plug iso blocks are universal .. when u mate both female/male plugs together make sure the Yellow/Red/Black match up

if you have a decent head unit .. you dont want to be using the booster amp anyways .. as you would be putting 40>50watts in to it for the amp its self to output only 25watts so bypassing the rear booster amp is a Must with new Head units and this is the same with the bose system as well

what model number is your head unit http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product_list/c_path/48_1016_1020/spd/kenwood-head-unit-looms.html