Silverline

you are correct thats why they spool faster when manifolds and turbos are wrapped exhaust also hence heat wrap exsists think about a pond as exhaust gases are techincaly a liquid form with fuel and so in them when it freezes the water becomes ice and expands same principal applies here as they cool down they expand

its the opposite way round the gases expand as they cool down and require more room the further down the exhaust they go so in therory you need the exhaust a larger diameter the further down the car it goes other wise it expands and has no where to go and creates back pressure choking your turbo and causing less power and slower spool

http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_info.php?cPath=6_19&products_id=6723 dan here you go

yes you want a full 3" elbows down pipes and catback

if you do 3" all the way you wont go wrong in any aspect stock or uprated tubs

ive been building high power cars and making custom set ups for 15 years as a living as specialist in these areas ive just retired from doing it 3 months ago if you want to check my references ask noz

they sell it because it makes profit and its a quick cheap fix for those adding new down pipes but not wanting to buy a new exhaust but its not ideal far from it

jaffa where are you measuring the pressure from

no no no thats worse if you use 3 " downpipes you must use a 3" exhaust all the way or bigger as the gases exit the turbo they expand due to cooling down as they go further down the exhaust if you go 3" and then into 2.5" you will create a bottle neck and terrible back pressure ideally there are 2 or 3 ways to this 2.5" elbow from turbo into a 2.5" exhaust 2.5" elbow into a 3" exhaust 3" elbow into 3"exhust or 2.5"elbow into 3.5" exhaust this is sized per side of car so you will of course need 2 1 for each side dont go from 3" down to 2.5" its a disater for tuning your car - - - Updated - - - no it wouldnt be trust me

Just mocking up the be mounts and billet turbos steel head gasket arp studs and titanium valve springs already in :sorcerer: Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

depress pedal over fill reservoir and leave pedal depressed over night with cap off reservoir if that dosent cure the problem its the slave pretty much seized or seals gone

n/a heads have slightly different flow pattern and i believe do flow better than tt heads if they are built to same specs ie bigger valves port work etc but on a n/a thats not trying to make loads of power either will be fine

i soda blasted my heads :)

Ronals as well Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

i might add that its woth spending the money on top tyres toyo r1r or r888 fo no traction loss in 1st gear at all in the dry and decent wet performance when warmed up

should be fine i run 275/40/17 similar offset no probs

looking at the injector cycle duties in detail around 520 at flywheel bud at 1.6bar

been running 1.6 bar on stock tubs for a while as you prob know the head gaskets got a seep out the back of the head and the water cooling on the tubs has finally started to seep through the seals in to the exhausts so the new parts list is Billet GTX style hybrid 2560 turbos the new CZP ones good for tad over 700hp BDE engine mounts ARP head studs Cometic Head Gaskets Supertech double titanium valve springs and retainers and few other bits :)

well i started taking my engine out :(

just waiting on my new turbos headgaskets arp studs supertech valve sring kit and bde engine mounts to arrive then to fit them soon as thats done i will confirm my position in the team

what boost you going up to Rich

for a guess you need a rewire and new connectors on the coil pack connectors and injectors connectors both are notorious for this if they havent been done new set of each with pig tails wire them in chances are it will fix the problem seen this so many times

I would suggest EBC Yellow stuff all round do front and rear together it will feel like a different car and the extra braking power over redstuff is rather noticable overall the best performance pad for the money ive come across and ive never managed to set fire to a set of these on the road not even in my stagea with a lot of weight in it

just have a set of zeta s of meister ride quality is good for coilovers they are good value and his customer service is exceptional if you get a problem i speak frome experience here Jerrick has the best customer service i have come across in the trade ever

if you have spark at the plug dont rule out the coil pack it may have spark but not enough if its gone week but if a coil pack is swapped know good and problem still persists its looking like the injector is gone the ohms may still read good but that dosent mean its not foobar the other side of this that is a problem or could be is valve float this can be caused by 3 things 1 your using the wrong grade of oil so need to know what you have in it 2 you have a seized lifter bucket or 3 your valve springs gone weak which isnt uncommon and the pressure in the lifter bucket oil wise is greater than the valve spring causing it not to shut