zed-racer

I work in coventry so if you need a backup, let me know. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Sat with a beer, BGT on the tellybox in centre parc, Sherwood Forest Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

In September I’ll be competing in the Brighton Speed Trials again. My best time there so far is 13.52 @ 108mph. I now have a NA diff fitted and hoping for around a 12.5…this would be faster than the Audi R8 that competes.

Probably best to check you Vac pipes to the engine first. if these are not 100% the symptom can be the same as a leaking clutch booster. is yours a auto - manual conversion?

In all seriousness, you need a bigger bar. I used a piece of scaffolding tube over a breaker bar. I did have it attached to the car so it could not move but that meant i was on my back pushing up!

After new aftermarket Vacuum hoses to replace my ones that are now in the bin. Let me know if you've a set you don't need :thumbup1:

Really looking very good Bob. Good luck at Mallory!

Wasn't eBay. Think it was from a trader that's not trading any more, 'Smithy's place' or something like that - someone on here may know more about it. I Just told him the mods I had and he sent a custom chip. I'm sure some fine tuning could be done but its a good start....

Think I paid about £60 for a chip for my jap import. Quick (ish) swap over, job done.

Try www.spigotrings.com

You need an MOT to tax your car. You need insurance to drive your car there. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

If you have the clutch pressed, the gearbox input shaft won’t be moving. It can’t be the bearing. Not if your are standing still in neutral, and clutch not pressed then that’s different.

Sounds very much like my rattle. I have one in every gear at around 2000RPM. I’ve changed (not just to solve this!) clutch, prop shaft – twice, diff - twice and Gearbox mount. Have no heat shields. I think for me it's a worn gearbox input shaft bearing. If stay out of this rev range, there’s no rattle at all. :wacko:

Brake or clutch Just need one of them. Don't care which.

I average £2000 a year and drive less than 100 miles a year.

I need manual balance bar in my life..

Manual has the extra connection. No pics as I've a auto balance bar.

At what revs does it happen? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Brake problem diagnosed. Took all the old brake and clutch vac pipework off (manufacture date of 1992) and simply connected a new piece of fuel pipe from the engine to the brake booster. Brake now feels how it should and I can even get the ABS to work! also put the pipe on the clutch and that went a lot lighter too:thumbup1: Best order me some new 10mm Vac Line....

If it were my car, I'd helicoil it. Everything stays standard and there will be no future problems with fitting replacement motors... You can buy locking helicoils too so you'll not have to worry about them shaking loose. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

A new flywheel makes the chances of my theory more probable...

Have you replaced the Flywheel?

This may help with understanding my earlier comments: so as the clutch wears, the force increases and then comes back down. This is all due to the unique characteristics of the diaphragm spring.

Yes, assuming its not something elce.... I'd suggest just to keep using it and if it does not get any better, then look into what elce is could be. I'll try to dig out some old technical drawings with the graph that shows how a new clutch clamp force is just a bit more than a worn one.

I once had a job as a OE clutch designer and designed landrover clutches amongst others. Without going to technical, the clamp force is shaped like a bell. Starts low, increases and then decreases to the point that it slips and you need a new clutch. A new clutch is designed with a balance between clamp force and clutch life. If you get it wrong, you'll not be able to drive a new car up the ramp of the transporter. Aftermarket clutches are usually copies or designed with less OEM support so things such as tolerances may be unknown and assumed. What I'm getting at is the more it slips, the more it will wear and therefor increasing the clamp force untill it stops slipping. Does this make sense or shal I draw some pictures?