Sherrgar

best man is all about telling stories to embarrass the groom. That's your job concerning the speach. so thinking if they are from Germany they might not ever have met him.. photographs from his past. that solves the language barrier.and should give everyone a laugh. best of luck.

my fav Zed.

check the trim at the top. in the top corners you have two plastics 'L' shapes. the trim can pull short and let water in the void. also it seems to be the glue/bond holding the glass in place that does the water proofing. if slit (age) or replaced can leak easily. Personnally I have pulled the trim off by hand and taking care not to rip it when removing and taken care not to stretch it when refitting, have plunged black silicon sealant in the gap behind the trim. 1- to water proof 2- to hold trim in place. this has worked well for me. I obv used the sealant to fill in the difference between 'L' peices and trim too. tah-dah! no more problem- as I once had you dilema on my rear.

mines much younger than that. ( a thousand thankyou's for such a rapid responce by the way) still interested in any info I can read. :-)

Could some fine upstanding person tell me a little about the flare that is standard fitment to Jap imports. How it functions/ how long it lasts (both inevitabilities of life time and scope)/ possible replacements/ harmful side effects/ basic aplication etc. I would love to be enlightened on the subject. thanks in advance..S.

I have a jap import too ( I get the jist that yours is such) and the power steering only works when I have acheived a certain speed ( wow -exactly like back to the future) it is due to the converter that changes ya clocks from mph from kph I am told. .. about 3mph and all is fine. hope that helps. or gives you hope. all the best!

I saw a similarly described Zed in Aylesbury. A burly gent who looked dapper and perhaps was smoking too. - the silver paint looked like wire brushed ally in the light and the tip spoiler on the rear hatch so suits the Zed. The black dished wheels help the silver car look like a silver car, not just a mass of grey. I suspect, whoever you maybe, that you are making yoofs on the verge of buying their first c[ors]ar very very jealous.

the fuel would have been under pressure in the rails if you warmed the car up. pressure can take overnight to drain on its own. I notice the step to release fuel pressure has been skipped.( with only the fuel fuses etc removed crank car over until its stops firing at all. then remove plugs etc)) were you pumping vapour into the air? what you wrote sounds messy.GULP! And you do simply watch the dial on the kit.. when the needle has pumped up-up-up and then peaks at a value you can stop cranking. Also you might like to do all cylinders then repeat the first cylinder test again- Espesh on a warm car.

31mpg driving everywhere at 4000rpm. std '95 N/A.

YES! thats brilliant... thanks Phutumsch.

well two things.. one being that I want the switch for the rear fog alone (its an import) and I need a switch. and two, did some just go ahead and give answer without reading I am lowering the wattage of the bulbs???

this is a little Q , please, to those MOT testers out there or those who have made this mod. Assume the lenses are clear and the bulbs are lower watt than std on the front fogs (at the bottom of the bumper, you know the ones) .....is there a reason why I cannot take the wire off the fog light switch and re-attach to the running lights switch so they work in tandem with the side lights/ low beam. The result would obv be ON at 1st click giving four front lights , ON at 2nd click giving four front lights, OFF when high beam is selected. Its a Jap import so this job it quite straight forward. oooh and do not concern your self with the rear fog. Cheers in advance(fingers crossed).

homologation is when a manufacturer tests and proves a part, normally the whole vehicle, to an external agency so the manufacturer can claim it will do what they want to claim it will. Homolgation only applies to certain car manufacturers in this country due to the number(so very little eg TVR, Farbio,Noble need no such certification) of units sold. Homolgation is backed up with lots and lots in-house testing (not witnessed) and presented as a public document. -therefore a homologated item is proven safer/ longerlasting & not to fail when used as intended..- NO arguement.

I have seen a vid on how to do this job.. and he too lined up the crank and right hand (as you face the engine) cams they explained (and showed) that the left hand cams move/settle when you take the belt off and so need a slight tweak when fitting the next belt. It's a video I have seen on you tube and I have not attempted this job before personally.

I say better with the badge.

I asked this question once at the pub.. question being what is the opinion on round rear rear lights.. and I got shot down (told to get ma coat etc). So, where was your voice.. why didn't you speak up... and jokingly.. why can I see the fence thru the rear screen in one of your pics, why isnt your bonnet raised??

are the front wheels on the right way round or are the rear wheels on the right way round????

haha.. and he did as i typed.. top man!

as a rule of thumb the driven wheels on any car are on a wider track than the others... after market mods non inclusive.... I mean Yowser or others will reel this off by heart but deffo in the right arena. In trouble if it were the other way around

http://www.moneysavingexpert.com for anything and everything.. legal or just damn annoying.. this is where to get some advice.. and template letters too..

Murano.. prob with the 3.5 engine if its your money or the diesel if its mine.

I have been lucky enough to have had a problem today and have discovered an ideal drain hole postion.. pull the carpet back passenger side and infront of the wooden kick board (well its wooden in my car) there is a moulded rubber bung in the floor.

many many thx. :thumbup1: I'm giving the 'not having a cover' 4 marks out of 10 for helpfulnes. It should score zero, but I never would have seen the fuses had it been in place plus I wouldn't have be reminded how good people can be when you are in need.

I have been at it some more.. and yes have found the fuses in the footwell.. but alas i have not bought a car that comes with a fuses box cover with helpful graphical representation of the said part.... it could be any of them.. and its dark down there.. hahahahaha.. and the electric chair keeps trying to trap me, crushing me into the footwell cos I'm leant over the controls. I'm handling the chair business quite well tho. sence of humour ago-go!

Hi All. So after installing the new faces on my clocks(from ZX-TT) I re-built the clocks, surrounding area and switches. Put the negative lead back on the battery and got a 'bong-bong'.. I had accidently thumbed the fog light switch and the door was open.. no drama there. If anything - that was a good sign. so I need power for these new faces and got it from the power to the lights splicing into the wires behind switch gear. No drama here either. It worked well.. I had Bright green faces or Bright Blue when I turned the lights on.. had a bit of a play..:biggrin: very happy.. :blink:Then something changed. Minutes later. I now have full-beam and only full-beam as a headlight option. No 'bong' when the door is open, and the fog light tell on the dash is permanently showing even tho the small tell on the front fog switch is not. I also now have no power from the wires like I once had. Fuses passenger engine bay OK side. Fuses in the small box on other side of engine bay seem OK. What do you reckon changed? :huh: