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lil Stevie

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    United Kingdom

Everything posted by lil Stevie

  1. just to reiterate though the engine hasn't been ran since Thursday night when I took the video of the fuel leak.
  2. So thanks to Paul, gave it a compression test. results are as follows stone cold engine From front of car right bank cylinder1 :- 125-130 psi 2:- 120-125 3:- 125-130 Left bank 1:- 140 2:- 90 3:- 125 Then with a little bit of oil in Right bank 1:- 210 2:- 240 3:- 130 Left bank 1:- 160 2:- 140 3:- 230 I may of forgot to push the throttle in on some of them, but that's what we've got. Would I be right in saying the head gasket looks like it's ok, although they're are probably some piston ring issues? Never had a compression test done in the four years I've owned the car so not sure if any issues will be related to the fiasco of the other night or if they've just always been like that. All the plugs look ok, although one was a little loose and had some carbon around the seating base. other than that all looks ok really. Gunna crack on with the fuel leak anyway se how far we get.
  3. Yeah wasn't planning on pulling the plenum just yet, just reading through the how-to's for when the time comes. But the compression tester would be handy for tomorrow Paul if it's not too much trouble...
  4. Anybody know why there aren't any photo's on this write up anymore? http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=880107
  5. My mate's going to bring me home a compression tester sometime next week, so hopefully get that done regardless of me getting any closer to the fuel leak. I agree with what's been said of the coolant leak, that obviously came from the front, I think it could of been due to air lock. I was hoping that will become clear eventually. I'll have a read up of the plenum pull and see about that. My worry is though that this was all caused from me fiddling about and disturbing things while trying to find a boost leak, if I pull the plenum it'll probably never work again.
  6. I'll have a look into the pressure test, but one thing at a time. And as you said, the fuel leak is epic, so that is priority one. I figured the plenum pull would be a big job, and didn't really wanna go to the effort of taking it off to fix a fuel leak, which would then allow me to run it to try and determine if the head gasket has gone, because then that would be plenum off, back on and then off again to change the gasket, so seemed like I would be creating work for myself. Although I should of known, none of this was going to be straight foreword.
  7. How do I get them off? I thought they were just part of the block, does that mean the fan and belts too? Am I going to have to remove the timing belt? The fuel leak is on the rubber hose at the front between the fuel rail, Have a watch of the video, you'll see it pissing out. Not quite sure how I'd pressure the coolant system, would I have to get an adaptor for the radiator cap?
  8. I've removed the two bolts that were in the red rings, and I've removed the 4 bolts around each of the butterfly valves, what else do I need to remove?
  9. Had a go at the fuel leak earlier, thought it would be better to do that before the block test, other wise I'd be pissing fuel out all over and it may even set on fire. Am I right in saying I can just take off the full throttle assembly to access that hose? If so how the hell do I get this bolt? Thought if I removed the timing belt cover the backing plate maybe removable without disturbing the belt, but then cam across this one. Any help guys?
  10. None yet. Weather's been terrible so haven't even looked at it. Thought I'd drown my sorrows with southern comfort, shisha pipe and broken arrow. Hopefully get the fuel leak sorted and the head gasket test done over the bank holiday weekend.
  11. well that doesn't sound too reassuring :crying:
  12. Yeah it's the exhaust vapours I'm concerned about too, If the head gasket isn't gone, and the turbo seals haven't then where else could the water be getting into the exhaust? It all sounds simple written down, but I think it's going to take a lot of time over the next week or so.
  13. That's what I thought, in the dark last night it was touch and go, but with daylight it does look a lot more like k-seal. The oil from the dipstick looked fine, and the level didn't look like it had changed since the last time I checked it. I've never actually had a compression test done the whole time I've had the car. I'll do some research and put it on the list of things to do.
  14. I'll give that a go vods.
  15. Cheers bud, that could be a real life saver. And thanks for all the well wish's guys.
  16. So no plenum off? that's reassuring at least. All seems dry inside, so think the matrix is ok. As for the block test, my mate is bringing a similar bit of kit from his work at the weekend so we'll get that done. If it was air locked, is there a possibility of it coming out the rad cap or from the overflow? Here's the stains on the front, And here's what the water looks like Did notice that the electric fan at the front of the radiator didn't kick in, so I'm guessing that's buggered too. come to mention it I don't think I've ever heard it go.
  17. I apologise for the portrait ratio on the video, can't figure out how to change it, really annoys me....
  18. Zed came home on a truck last night For those that missed my other thread, it's probably all related http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?176878-Problems-Problems-Problems I think I haven't bled it properly after changing the water pipe the other night, so last night whilst on a spirited drive I once again lost all the water, only this time it was smoking like a chimney, people 5 cars back were getting it through the windows, thick white smoke. My temp gauge never got in the red, infact I think it may of even been higher during Sunday's incident, although that could of been due to the speed I was going and the wind keeping it cold. Anyway pulled over, and switched it off, wisps of smoke coming from the top of the engine itself, opened the rad cap expecting the worse, and low and behold, no water to be seen. I was prepared though so had a few litres in the car just incase, started pouring it in and it wasn't getting very far before it was bubbling back out the rad cap. eventually some was starting to stay in, but worried that it wasn't circulating, decided to start it up, and it sounded rough as a badgers arse, didn't sound like it was running on all 6 at all. So quickly knocked it off, and just slowly continued feeding it water. I rang the AA and organised someone to come out and have a look, so while we waited we had plenty of time to let it cool. The water we were getting in seemed to be holding, the pipe that had been fitted looked bone dry, so the water didn't leak out the back, it appeared to have come from the front, possibly the rad cap itself, or the overflow, it looked as though it had hit the fan, and sprayed across the water pipes behind it, they're still stained a nice brown now. After it cooled a good bit I started it again to circle some water and try and access the damage, And surprisingly it sounded fine, just as normal, the smoke out the back was a little more than normal, and there was a lot of water coming out, it was spraying on the floor. but other than that it seemed ok. The water in the rad cap was looking a little shiny in the torch light, possible oil contamination, but can't be sure, it could just be some k-seal from previous years, the water's never looked clean in there. Anyway, the recovery bloke came and agreed that it was probably best it wasn't driven home so he agreed to put it on the back of his truck. My AA policy covered me for 10 mile recovery, and I was around 22miles away, but by the grace of God the admin office seemed to think I was only 7.5 miles from home so they gave the bloke the ok to take me all the way home. (AA policy the best £40 I've ever spent) I've had a look at the car when I finished work to try and start to asses the damage, Between me and my friends last night, we came up with a few possible scenarios, Head gasket gone, would explain all the steam out the exhaust, and the possible oil in the radiator. Turbo's starved of water so seals burnt out, also explain all the steam. I've checked the intercooler hoses for signs of oil or water and the two into the butterfly valves were bone dry, bone dry last night, and bone dry after I ran it for a bit earlier on. there is a white powdery residue on the roof of them, but no idea how long that's been there, or if its related, The bottom hose seems to have a greasy residue on there, but not covered in it, not sure if that's worrying or not. When I ran it earlier it sounded fine as normal, and the smoke out the back didn't seem any more excessive than any other cold start. However I have found what appears to be a fuel leak from a hose/pipe under the plenum at the front. Not sure if it is fuel, it does smell like it, a little hard to get a finger in though. guessing this would of been caused from excessive heat. I've taken a video again. Shows it a lot better, can actually see the drips, looks like a good bit is coming out. As for the Turbo smoke, For the last few weeks it has been pointed out to me that the fumes have been getting progressively worse, white smoke coming out, some people have said not to worry it's just condensation, when It has been noticed it seems to be after I've just washed the car so some water will have been sprayed up the exhaust (not intentionally though). So not sure weather this is a sign of the turbo's been on there way out or not. Anyway after all that waffle can anybody help? some ways to try and diagnose problems? or just ways to rule out others? I don't have too much confidence in me and my friends changing a head gasket or a rebuild for that matter, especially just after the timing belt's been done. Not that I don't think they're capable, a few of them are full time mechanics, it's just due to it been done on my drive, and the probability of something been overlooked or missed. As for professional help, not sure how much Jeff would be willing to take on and Jimmer is miles away so I can only assume that between transporting the car to either one and then diagnostics, parts and labour I can only guess I'd be looking to part with a couple of grand. So as much as it saddens me to say it, I may actually be better off cutting my losses, selling up or breaking it, getting rid of my daily drive and buying an S15. I know that's not what everyone will be wanting to hear, and before the vultures start circling no decision's will be made until problems have been diagnosed. For all I know the fuel leak may be the only thing wrong with it and I may still get to enjoy the summer in it. Atleast it didn't set on fire though, every cloud eh...
  19. Excellent, I'll hopefully give it a go at the weekend Haha, yeah schoolboy error there, yeah 2 psi. but that was talking peak, it drops so quickly.
  20. When you say sealant Jeff, is silicone OK? I imagined it would need to be some special heat resistant stuff.
  21. It's that bad that it can't even build up pressure. Maybe 2bar at the most. It's leaking that much. Actually tried tightening the two 10mm bolts on Saturday. I thought it made it sound a little quieter, but I could of just imagined it. If it has an o ring and it's perished I could get another from work no bother. I thought it would be a plennum off job. Will be chuffed to bits if it's not. My idea was to get it remapped by noz, but thought it was pretty pointless with a massive boost leak. The negative pressure is definitely affected. I can see that from the gauge on tic over. I'm assuming it wouldn't make any difference if I was doing the leak test with the ignition on or not?
  22. well, all fitted, and bled, seems to be fine, haven't took it for a drive yet, but got it up to temp and seemed to bleed ok, gunna take it for a deserving drive tomorrow. Still got the boost leak though, so how on earth do I fix that if it is coming from the VTC???
  23. Well tried two avenues, my mate got me a new pipe, and I got some belzona chemical metal, so bit the bullet and took the old pipe off. decided to strengthen the new one with some of the emetal, just waiting for it to cure before we fit it. there's the little pin hole that caused all the problems. And here's the new pipe hopefully should have it all back together soon.
  24. Thanks guys, I want to say it's the passenger side one. I never even thought of chemical metal. There's loads in a store at work so I'll see if I can get some today, not sure on the brand, it's in two parts, one in a black tub, and one in an orange tub. Definitely not happy about removing the timing belt, Jeff just did that before Christmas too, would that be the case if I were to replace the rocker cover gasket? As for the boost leak though, guessing I've no choice but to remove the plenum?
  25. Turns out it's not fro the hose, I removed the clip and replaced with a jubilee, that obviously didn't work, so pulled the hose back a bit and did the washing up liquid bubble test, and it turns out it's actually on the join of the little branch. I've got a video of some bubbles ut due to vimeo been shit it's gunna be another 30mins Here's the link anyway Now am I been silly for suggesting k-seal or Rad-seal or some other sealer here? It'll only be a temp fix, but it's not the first time the zed's had some, and that was when I first bought it, and that's been fine since.

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