Slick Pete.

there is a simple answer to that one that might seem like Im being a smartass but just think about it for a moment, cos Im trying to make you think about it yourself. You need to have adjustable suspension when you know what settings you want to run without any reference to a Nissan manual. Ie your own settings for Tracking/rear tracking. Camber F + R and castor. Many members will be perfectly happy with the car the way Nissan intended. Those who want something else need fully adjustable stuff to acheive their aim. IMO HTH etc etc:flowers:

Most of it is Taiwan Tat. Made with cheap sperical bearings etc that will wear out much quicker than any original Nissan part even if you keep it greased. However I have it on mine as do many other members. Mine is mixed makes picked up in various deals ... as you do.:sneaky2: Others like Jaikai just get it all in one hit from one source. Your call really

But you just said..... Which means you had it running at least 20mins and probably 30. Even at 2500 revs 30 mins of running means that the piston rings travelled up or down the bore 150,000 times. If one of the bores is flooded with fuel due to a faulty injector stuck open then thats 150000 strokes of metal on metal without any proper lubrication. That is more than enough to wreck a set of rings and/or the bore. Not having a go or anything just trying to stop you killing it instead of fixing it. What cylinder is missing/not working??

As usual Rich Im only kidding.:balloon: I dont even bother taking pics of it myself now its built. It was just good to see such a big turnout which included some of the best cars on the forum. Your own is very nice reallly and its clear you have put a lot of time effort AND money in to it. Mine is just assembled from a write off shell and a collection of bits and as such was always going to be rough round the edges. The great thing about it is it doesnt have a "wallet brake" fitted which means I can drive it like I stole it and if I bin it or blow it up then it simply dont matter. :thumbup1:

:lol::lol::lol: Even so it was a great little meet. First time Ive been to a "social" type of meet since JAE last year. As Ceejay said in another thread it reminded us of Midlands meets from the distant past. I really enjoyed it. Great location. Good food and good company. I met up with a couple of Bikers on the way home heading down the A610 probably on their way to Matlock. One of them appeared to be "up for it" so the pair of us had a go.:blink:. We both backed off as we were approaching the limit officer!!!:lol:

Im coming too as I havnt got the car ready enough to go to York raceway

OOOOOOH yes it is!!!!! I have some used hubs here just like it

Yes but if you know how and take your time you CAN get them to line up. I didnt bother as I was only messing around

Only jesting!!:flowers: Stock cowl fits" Koyo Racing" type rads.:thumbup1: Electric fans are a whole new debate..................................................................:w00t:

Yes indeed And you will probably be painting a 240Z as well:flowers:

+1.

Standard Nissan hoses are of high quality and last well. I have red silicone hoses bought from a little man in a big factory in China I cant comment yet on the quality or the longevity of them as the car has only ben built/running for 18 months and covered less than 2000 miles

Just fit it all mate, Being serious now. It is carefully designed by Nissan to help the fan pull cooling air through all of the radiator thus maximising the cooling effect of the rad. At the same time it prevents the air on the outer edges of the bades from being dissipated outwards. If its looking a bit scruffy buy a new one. Or skin/cover the top in carbon fibre.

................:nono::nono::nono: You naughty boy:slap: I mean its OK to do it but you shouldnt really tell anyone:no:

Yeah its fine if you paint it satin black.:thumbup1: But the trouble on this forum is peole will want to paint it Candy Apple Blue or white and red to match their coil packs:no: :lol: The serious point is.. leave it on cos it helps with cooling. People who leave it off and dont show increased temps either have insufficient power to stretch the system or dont drive it hard enough. With high power and hard driving you need the shroud. Take Bobgenies car at Time Attack and TOTB. On a hot day even with a high capacity Koyo Racing type rad AND a shroud we still need a huge fan in the pits on a hot day after a run to keep temps sensible and prevent heat soak cooking the thing to death

You have just hit the nail on the head Gaz. The reason I did it and posted it up was...1. For fun 2. To show how simple it is to do(without actually showing anyone what/how I did it. And for everyones information I did it on a spare speedo head I had which when tested today in my car as part of my speedo issue was found to be broken. The whole assemby will get weighed in this week.

And more importantly its an integral part of the cooling system. No shroud means lass effective cooling. Thats why Nissan designed it in to the cooling system. As for painting the fan..........well I cant really say cos my "Naffometer "has just shot off the scale when I tried it:wacko::no:

Well a happy end to my speed sensor issue. The culprit was the signal wire behind the speeedo head. In the past this wire had been cut by someone and subsequently re joined by a badly crimped bullet connector which didnt...connect. Here is some info for reference...................... As Jeff TT already said the most common fault with the sensor in the end coming loose. His fix is simple. To test for a faulty sensor you need to connect an oscilloscope across the two wires coming from the sensor. Turning the speed sensor then produces the variable pulse which shows up on the scope in wave form . Altering the speed of turning alters the frequency and height of the wave. You can do this test on the speed sensor plug itself under the car and easier .. in the engine bay and also directly behind the speedo on the circuit board. All the time the car has the rear wheels off the ground so you can "drive" it in gear for the test. A process of elimination soon showed where the fault was, backed up by a normal "continuity test". The offending connector was replaced and now I have a working speedo. My thanks to the helpful suggestions on here including Jeffs original thread.:flowers: And massive thanks to my clever mate Steve who came with the scope today and did the stuff!!:bow: Tomorrow I just have to put it all back together..........................................:blink: And drive it!!!!:nana2::nana2: Hopefully my experience will come in as useful for someone else

What!!!! Just the petrol needle...NO way.......................................................... Its all been clocked... by me .... today... Visit me in jail please:blush: :lol::lol::lol:

IIRC the owner had a pair in his field next to the car.

As it says in the title..........................................................:thumbup1:

Well its just based on my own experience of trying to do them and failing twice!!! No intention to cause offence:flowers: Im not putting the guy down or criticising his work . It might well last for some time but time and paint are not cheap and eventually it will bubble up again as its impossible to get all the moisture out of them and the foam stuff after 20 + years is beginning to disintegrate. All IMO of course and based on a mere 9 year experience of owning and working on Z32s

Sadly all your hard work and effort will probably be probably wasted cos next time it sits out side in a frosty/wet session of weather it will bubble up again. A fibreglass replacement is the only long term solution

Been ages since I did one but I think the overhead lights need to come out first???

Wot he said. 10mm deep socket... Job done as far as I remeber