Slick Pete.

Great job :bow::bow:

ratchet kit collected this afternoon. Reserved last night and got a txt to confirm!! Its a cracking bit of kit Wooohooo! i will post a pic later to show you wot you have missed:punk:

Indeed I have a 14cfm 3hp 50 litre tank new compressor currently being wired up in the garage. quote... "is ideal for powering all commonly used air tools." My current 8cfm 2hp 25 litre unit will struggle to power the ratchet or indeed any other common air tool

:rofl::rofl::rofl:

I reckon you are right there Dave. they are a real PITA to get out. That bonding is an inch wide in some places

Just reserved an air ratchet for tomorrow Cheerz

This is the supplementary washer pump for the early SWB cars that have the washer bottle and main pump at the rear.

Hoi!!..... im first!!!!!:batman: :D:D

It wasnt me that nicked it!!:scared: Honest guv.:devil:

My replies in this thread were based on the fact that 8ACE said it was "third party" rather then saying "third party + fire+ theft" So I assumed the opposite to you Dave ie he had no theft cover. Only 8ACE will know for sure:cool3:

But unless you tell them to scrap it they will keep storing it and charging you. They were asked/told by the police to move it. But its still your car at the moment and therefore your responsibility. i feel your pain/anger. My daughter ended up in the same situation but it was self induced unfortunately. she had a smallish accident on the M1 at night and landed in a dangerous situation with an undriveable car. The police came and arranged for it to me taken away by a local recovery yard. I had to go with her in a couple of days to look at it. total write off(on 3rd party ins) so I had to pay for recovery, storage etc less the scrap value. PITA but at the time I was just relieved she wasnt injured and to be fair the police were really good and took care of it all then rang me to ask me to come and fetch her home.

????????

Better change that to "might" fetch. in these depressed times I dont see a huge demand for a pair of UK rears. After all they are still only 16" and dull as dishwater.

Indeed! You might be able to claim it back from your insurance but you really need to go and get the car NOW as they will be charging you on a daily basis.:sad:

You will have to pay yourself.

i think that is the way to go. I have just bled the clutch today and Im happy with the pedal effort needed to shift the RPS TT clutch n fly. IMO you dont need that silly clutch booster thing... its for girls:winkiss:

If you are just going to stick around 280/300 bhp on your TT engine then an uprated NA clutch will be OK (IMO) RPS or ACT will be good. If you plan on more power then I would go for a TT set up. I have just put a RPS Street Max TT clutch and Fidanza ally flywheel in my new NA car as I will be running around 300bhp and using it very aggessively

Yep I have already told him..... and put up a picture of where to grind the bellhousing.

If nos is cheating then so is high octane fuel, bigger turbos, cooling the intercoolers, etc etc. But stating power outputs with and without NOS is a good way to do it. However the most powerful engine is the one that makes the best figure on a dyno. End of. How you get an engine to produce the figures is irrelevant.

i dont think your arguement about not constantly in use stands up. lots of peak dyno figures are obtained on engines where the boost is turned up beyond everyday use levels. No different then to using Nos part time. Using NOS doesnt detract from good engine building. you cant run NOS without a properly built engine. Doubling the power of a stock engine from 300 to 600 just by putting a bottle of NOS in the car is the stuff of comic books not reality.

Mesh has no bearing on function. Its a coarse filter only

No need to remove plenum. just two bolts on each coilpack bkt. undo...pull out No idea is R33 ones are the same... sorry. Plenty of Z32 ones around anyway.

LOL!!! Even a stock rebuild isnt a cheap job never mind what Im doing. So you need to........... Strip the engine. Check and measure main and big end journals and order new bearings/grind and order new bearings similarly with pistons/bores. You need to check/measure for wear and decide if you could do a hone and re ring(I wouldnt) or get some new pistons and get the block bored to suit. Heads n valves need to be stripped bare and examined for wear etc new stuff needs to be bought if required and seats re ground. (In my case although I started with a known good engine it ended up with all the valves. seats and springs being scrap. So had to get all new.) You will need a new water pump, oil pump and a full new cambelt with tensioner and idler pulleys. Plus a full gasket get top n bottom

Current car still under construction. So no definitive build sheet yet. I didnt start from a car just a bare shell so it will be easier when I list the spec to say what I installed not what I removed. There is nothing at all on the shell that isnt essential.

my 04 plate Mundane diesel estate is by far the best estate Ive had( and I have owned a fair few different estates over the past 30 years)