Stephen

looks like you gave it a bit of a whack. as said least your alright. you gonna get another?

i fail to see the point you already have a bulb that does that in there. i relocated my sidelights into the indicator housings.

Maybe some rep points? :) if not for myself definatly for jeffs thread :)

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?147915-Spinning-key-barrel-tech-fix&highlight=door+lock+broken

this is very common, the key will eventually spin round and round and round. getting hold of the part for the drivers side can be a dick. but you can modify a passenger side version to make use of it and replace it. im sure jeff did a little thread on this.

that is very very reasonable.

can i ask what you parted with cash wise for that job?

they should be pushing out the stock boost value, the stock gauge is pretty inaccurate. and you shouldnt have any smoke. if theyre not smoking and your getting the full boost pressure then they are probally alright.

20k! **** me there used to be a shit boxone round the corner rotting I assumed like most mgs it was fairly worthless.

Seems mighty cheap for a drycell.

Is that an mg... A?

Theres been alot od discussion about this in the us forum. so thays agreay place to start

My fronts click or crunch when fully depressed. I think its the discs being old and the shims needing greasing, with copper slip.

Its all a little 1.4 honda civic imo. Each to tgier own though.

i changed the input and output shaft seals on the box and the main front gasket. its worth replacing the clutch fork piviot ball. and gear stick bushes.

nothing fits, the spoiler looks plonked on the front bumper is trying the fall off. not ideal.

dont be scared of investigating it be scared of ignoring it and it getting worse.

Oh dear that is definatly beyond economic repair. I would agree its time gto start afresh shell.

yeah it doesnt quite work its got better but not quite there.

far as im aware the ngks where spefically designated and designed for the 300zx z32 so you wont find much better. some do use a cooler running varient if theyre running upped boost etc.

no benifits unless your standard recircs are failing. there are disadvantages however.... but if you want them go for it. they are on my list. and its best to have 2. one per turbo.

ive got a manual front half with a bear that seems ok. i cant guarntee anything as i never used it but i had a twists or attempt on the bearing and it felt firm, and rotated nice and smooth.

ive got a little idea in my head that includes using bailey dv26s they might not be the first name that pop in your head for bovs but they have been a long standing favorite in the ford scene for years now. the fantastic thing about them is they are common as muck. prices for a brand new one range from 75 to 90 quid each. so not cheap cheap but far cheaper than hks or equalivent. the base is 25mm and they can be adjusted upto 60psi. looking about you can pick them up singly very cheaply. less than £30 each. my question is this aside from buying a matching pair of dv26s and bunging up the recirc line and fitting them to the correct line, what else would i need to do to fit them. would i need a fitting kit to get it in the tube or is the zed one 25mm anyway? would i need to adjust the settings of the spring load to make them work correctly? if so how do you achcieve this? i know i should be concentrating on fixing the current issues before adding more stuff but i wanna get this idea straight in my head so when i have solve dthe other issue, i can crack on. also it give sme something positive to focus on rather than the doom and gloom of an immenent turbo replacement.

Which incidentaly was my locker number at school :/ random

hopefully they will do it again next year.