Stephen

See a few round here. Mines out every weekend and a few are daily drivers.

In that case put the touches on if it will cost you that little enjoy it for what it is till your in a better position and find yourself a slickie

By the time youve pumped in the cash to get it to the point your talking aboutvto sell your going to have spent a fair few pennies.obviously yours is a solid low miler however I think you would struggle to get what ud be wanting. You would be far better off using this as a solid example or hunting out one that already has say a forged engine and cutting your losses with the current one. Probally not what you want to hear im just being realistic.

I agree its going to take more than a day, they may b ef able to do the bulk in a day but they will wznt longer to work out the kinks. I helped do one with two members that took a total of 24 working hours. When I did mine it took around 12/15 hours, im still tweaking it its back on the road but ive got,niggles to sort.

that front bumper is different i think i like it. :)

sorry to hear this ian, however knowing the history of the car in terms of its tin worm issues, i do a have to agree that it this may be the nail in the coffin for it. you dont need me to tell you about it pushin your insurance as its now classed as a cat... whatever right off. my personal opinion would be to write if off buy it back then break it and pool the money to buy and keep parts to get a more solid base for your project. chin up bud im sure we can find that club spirit and try and sort things out for you somehow.

well ideally you need to start from the front backwards. cleaning or at least inspecting the ptu is a good start, then the cas connection. as this is where the spark signal is sent from. then working further back.

could turn out to be very interesting this. esp for people like myself who are trying to learn more and more. realistically the only way to learn things is to try but you need someone who knows, to step in and say no thats a red herring or try this blah blah. i notice alot of people are posting problems and once resolved the solution is never posted, so if you do a search and find a similar topic, there are a few suggestions, but they dont finish off with a solution so you cant really know for sure quickly what is worth trying and what was just hearsay.

I take it the tps is unrealted to the idle? Ie I dont need yo do that I just need to do pin 44/ neutral blah. And reset the base idle?

Id forgotten hythe was my side of the test so thats fine. Ive walked home from.there before so its not that far lol

whats the current arrangements then times etc/ i did notice about meeting up in hythe but that would make the trip twice as long for me lol.

so when we say join how do we mean rather than splice? do i cut the wire from pin 44 and join with one of the neutral switch cables, and the other to a ground on the chasis or do you use a ground from the ecu? also are the neutral switch cables poled or simply a switch and therefore it doesn't matter which way you use it? and final question lol, do you use a connector from the auto loom? or do you just simply cut off the plug and join it through?

i believe from what ive read you are correct mark however the neutral switch should be done as this will help the situation further. so i will be doing both.

So do we think pin 44 to neatral switch will cure the idle?

Where can I find this elusive pin 44?

Yeah also get the rally car burble, and some smoke. I assumed it was my tub seals but hoping its actually running rich. Pulls like a fecking train though.

I very much agree did your idle high before you chsnged tge timing vs?

Im very confused about pin 44 and ghe neutral switchm anyone care to expandm and yeah quavey thats how I understood it.

Yeah fine hes working again now so the old bumble bee will be back soon.

Omg!you, like, so totally took the words out my mouth bazzie.

Neither of us have done the neautral switch I lead to belive its best left alone.

Talking to ultimateray this evening both of our cars are autos convertted to manual. And we both have high idles when warm around 1500 and 2k with clutch depressed. Looking about it sems in the us they routinly knock down the idle speed after a manual conversion. Is this right and do I still need to do it?

Cant polish a turd :p

I havent yet no as as you know I have a wealth of turbo factors on my doorstep. After your recent issues would you use turbo dy againm or has it left a bitter taste? The other company was cr turbos.

Sounds like carbonation. The old chap prob never gave it some stick. Loads of querks were sorted on mine simply by driving