Stephen

Short shifter is about £30 rich. I don't really want the 99 spec as its got red stitching. Bit of a rock and a hard place really.

This makes me laugh, because I can rennet those issues myself lol.

Log your interest now if you will, but this thread will develop over the next week. I propose a meet at the Cheddar site, plenty of parking great little national speed limit twisty road, perfect place to hit up in September once the tourists start to clear. Great opportunity to meet up and get some in action shots. Watch this space more to come.

Sorry mate, that's foul.

Your a big advocate of mbc's arnt you?

Tbh with you bud, your going to struggle to get a straight swap esp for a turbo model. You may find a bargain but you have to know what to look for, as a general rule I'd budget 3 to 4k for a z32 worth buying, thesis 1k cars will quickly end up costing you what you saved. Buy a good one once, there reliable fast cars if you get a good one. That being said a dog is a real dog.

Il explain why I was thinking about the short shifter. I'm very happy with the feel of stock as its pretty much all new. Problem is I haven't got the oem gear knob. This leaves an inch gap between the aftermarket gear knob and gaiter, this looks shit. Thought I could kill two birds and save some cash as the oem knob is a rip. circa £70

I had a feeling that would be the answer. Cheers mate. - - - Updated - - - Do you use any washing powder etc? Or just a hot water wash.

As above I have two silly questions which I hope someone will know the specific answers to. 1.How do I wash the oem shagpile floor mats. Ie what can I use to wash them and how? 2.How much shorter is a short shifter? is it even shorter? will it lower the gear stick knob by x amount? Hopefully for the purposes of my ocd the answer is just over an inch lol. (I'm not saying why) :shifty:

Ok my Jspec tt has a 26mm front arb and a 21mm rear arb which are hollow. Just been out there with the vernier.

Sounds good, depends when though obviously.

Uk cars have lots of extras, bigger oil coolers, trans and diff coolers, adjustable rear suspension etc so it would stand to reason that yes it makes sense for them to be bigger/better. Which what I've always been Rolfing arb are an upgrade.

Uk anti roll bars are considered an upgrade.

I think they were on about the oil scraper rings rather than the compression rings, which would see full compression but allow oil into the bores.

Why you using the na pedal anyway?

Just lee those fingers double/triple crossed. Glad it's looking good though.

Verbal abuse to another member, ban.

If your going that far detach the front hard pipe on the turbo face and GENTLY try to turn the turbo by hand. It should spin smooth as silk. Lots of boost leak are not going to help though and I suggest you replace as much of the vac hoses and water hoses as possible while you there as well as deleting the dross. Plenum water pipes aiv etc.

As baz says pretty sure you do that from the engine bay 2 nuts top and bottom it's also what holds the clutch master cylinder on.

The nuts on the tt your looking at are the servo ones not to detach the pedal from the bulk head.

If I can get a cage il be de tinting mine. I've removed the front tints already.

Is it a uk car? Or import dicky.

A few people have those, 2fast2cool is the same parts as japspeed. Those ones are good as they don't remove as much back pressure retaining two silencers per side. The ones I have delete everything but the back boxes. You also won't have to unbolt the turbo elbow, which can be problematic, yours should be easy though as they've been off twice recently. Downside is you will gain less by not having divorced downpipes and possibly retaining a precat. I think thee a sensible buy though in the real world. As for the afr, a local rolling road would be best. Someone like Noel, or indeed Noel himself. You need to make sure those boost leaks are resolved aswel mate.

You can get better ones from machine mart for similar or cheaper.

Just keep your fingers crossed, it sounds promising.