Stephen

Get yourself on one of the Skyline clubs and see what you can blag. I bet somebody will lend you some spare, second hand etc discs just to drive around a bit and see what happens. I think really that’s the best option.

It would be worth a stern email. I doubt you will get far esp seeing as they have now been “altered by a third party”. Plus whilst this is the most probable cause it’s not concrete, so you could be barking at the wrong people. There’s no real cheap check answer here is there.

The current discs you have can’t have many miles on them, they have only seen road use as far as I’m aware? Seems a bit naff that a £500 pair of discs have failed like this....

Name one good thing that only comes in orange? Even Nemo has seen the light.

How was the event? Some of friends went as well.

I only meant as a temporary test exchange. However I’m interested in what you say. Where both discs OEM units? Seems strange that with expectations of Brakes being so much higher these days that they’d go to the trouble to produce a cheaper inferior disc. You’d assume it’s the sale by volume that makes them cheaper, the Z33 globally sold a lot more than the R33 GTR. Also I’d assume that discs were Brembo like the caliper, brembo don’t make products specific for a car they adjust the mounting points, offsets etc to meat the customers need. For example the skyline, evo and 350z all use the same pads in the rear.

I would class myself as a Royalist, I’m certainly not anti, I respect the wealth of experience the Queen in particular holds not to mention them as a brand for tourism. Did I watch, no of corse I didn’t. Us blokes aren’t faffed with weddings esp people you don’t know, I’m married already, so I know what happens... it’s not like there’s a plot twist :lol: but the women like all pomp and glitz.

Have it hydrodipped in orange flaming skulls Pete. I think that would be the most benifit.

What size are the new wheels Pete? Good to see you getting on with it.

Skyline discs are inherently expensive, they are virtually the same as 350z with a small difference but that’s not beyond Mr P. That would be a cheaper option I recon for the experiment and there’s a better choice of those discs available anyway.

Cheers Pete. I was trying to see if I could figure out if indeed I had installed something wrong. It just doesn’t really add up.

The rear AliG.

I’m having some trouble with the passenger side on my JDM model. The geometry is currently terrible and whilst the drivers side is ok the passenger hits that bloody tab on the rear bumper, even though I’ve modified it. This is because that side the wheel is further back than the other, I assume this is because of the caster is wrong. I can’t get my head around how I can pull the wheel forward, the traction arm is the smallest it will go, same as the other side. I have aftermarket adjustable, traction, camber and toe (in the shape of a hicas delete kit). Nothings bent and this only became an issue when I fitted all the arms. Like I say I can’t get my head around it.

Accessory relay. It’s the blue one that’s nearest the driver when the fuse box is in place.

Surely if the hub or shaft were bent it would rotate elliptically. That would serious vibrations when driven.

Tbh sometimes the minute you walk through the door you know they’re gonna give you a hard time with a modified car. My old guy was great but it’s just not practical to go to him these days.

From what I understand. They don’t have to, the law is regarding it being louder than production. The MOT and the of have no requirement to state a dB. I believe the SVA test does contain a dB limit. The police when a bit nuts round this way booking scoobies and next for being too loud then having to retract it as they had factory exhaust systems. There’s a common sense approach normally but I too had a minor year before last for “exhaust noisey”, it’s a lot quieter many production cars. Can’t hear the exhaust over the tyre and wind noise on the motorway.

Probably a good idea. The drain is about the fuse box, quite well hidden have a poke about. Corse the relays you need, there’s identical ones in the engine bay box,you’d be robbing Peter to pay Paul but they’re much easier to access later.

Have you checked the targa drain above? That’s probably where the water got in. The 20a blue ones are in mk2 micras the brown ones I’m not sure.

Yeah rear of the fuse box. It’s actually not that bad to remove. Get the accelerator pedal and bonnet realise out the way, the rest is just plugs. Don’t make my mistake, two are the same and if you mix them it’s problems.

When you need electrical parts a dead Micra is the way forward. Thank you little red V plate Micra, may you rust in pieces and your parts perform in ways they could never dream, contributing to keeping a monster alive. 6 Blue relays from one micra, result!

I believe she’s ready to go back and be ticked off. The relay change appears to have corrected the headlight issue. The rear brake binding was the handbrake shoes not adjusted correctly on that side. Battery tie down is done. Side light is done, although it transpires that the housing for the front fogs are now very brittle. New Bosch wipers fitted, where it had been sat the areo wipers had gone stiff and weren’t following the curvature of the windscreen anymore. Horn (forgot this off the initial list) this gave me the biggest issue. The relay and harness was full of crud so I had to rebuild a new subharnes as wiring it straight through just didn’t have the balls. And then... the left pod stopped working, this was an intermittent fault but obviously it meant I couldn’t activate my wipers to prove new wipers sufficiently cleared the screen. Grrr. Fuse box back out and with me now out of reliable relays I swapped the blower and accessory ones. I don’t need the blower right this immediate second. This seems to have worked and when activating the blower it just sat there clicking and clacking, supporting the idea that it’s the relay at fault. So I need at least two of those bloody blue Nissan relays. Time to go to the car graveyard and rifle the fallen. :devil:

How about. ABS fault. Try deactivating it and seeing if it goes away. Gotta think logically. What happens when you brake, I mean suspension wise. One of the things is the lower arms try to drag backwards and exert toe out, that flutter is probably what you can feel. This is most likely the tension rod bush in most cases but could also be the lower arm bush to the subframe. That’s my gut something in that part of the equation is struggling.

That’s kinda scarey!