Stephen

Do you ever drive that car down to bmth?

You will need to make or buy a boost leak tester...

Compressor and a boost leak tester. You pressurise to 5psi then listen for the hisses. Pretty simple.

Looks like oil has burnt on the ceramic, could be a leaky rocker gasket if it's back there. Checked for boost leaks yet?

Black as bog as well. Looks like your running rich. Is the far left one from cyl number 1 by any chance by the oil filler,

Sounds like it's not 110% then but I recon it would run like a pig 180 out.

Completely agree, it is about personal choice, however as you say if the majority are saying nah that doesn't look right.... To stand firm and insist your right when the whole world is telling you different is often called insanity. However you will never find a sane genius. Just gotta paint it any colour but orange mate hahahahahaha!

Does it run ok? Or does it run like a bag of shit?

Haha UK na! Also the fastest trap time for na is held by nick, so again wrong. He's owned 17? Who buys 16 cars that a ****ed or ****s them...sounds like he's more full of it than the advert.

I was thinking about making those myself, it appears not only do they already exist they're damn cheap. Think il be buying a set of those myself.

Happy birthday mr poo.

Because shortening the gears on a car that already suffers with traction is a silly idea. I'm sure 3rd is rocket ship fun but 1st and 2nd are going to be damned useless, they are with tt ratios. You need a lot of grip to take advantage of the shorter ratios. I would love to see comparison numbers on a quarter mile between the two on road tyres. IMO obviously.

On the upgrade route, you've got to be sure what you have is solid. Building on poor foundations lands your house at the bottom of the hill, I'd you see what I'm saying. From experience I wouldn't bother putting the stock turbos back on if I was doing it again. The financial implications of rebuilding the stockers vs replacement it's simply not worth thinking about. Once your 120k kit is done properly you will hopefully have a good base. I recommend joining to read http://www.300zxclub.com as there are far more modified z32s over there and you will get a feel for what mods do what, what characteristics you want etc.

Jimmer isn't a million miles from you up in avon mouth, nr. Bristol. Pretty much every big power z32 in this country has passed through his hands at some point. These cars do sound pretty rattly from cold, esp with higher Mileage. Just pick up walk away and take it to some one who knows these cars well, 99% of garages do a poor job with the z32 due to it's quirks and confined spaces.

I'd get a second opinion on the faint knock, sounds a bit ominous. If that was the case I would then take it to a z32 specialist. Going forward, hiking power up has a few things to consider. Any fault will show faster the more power you produce, the most noticeable first issue is either blowing up number 6 due to a poor tune or failed components, the clutch doesn't last too long over 350bhp esobif it's old anyway. The bottom end has been used stock to produce over 800hp but generally the guide is 500 for a sense of longevity(bear in mind what I already said though about faults). Getting to those figures is the interesting bit. ~400 is achieved pretty easy with a custom map, and with breather mods 500 has been hit on stock tubs and injectors in the states. My preference would be ditch the old worn stock turbos to achieve this though, the costing of the breather mods isn't cheap. So basically you need to decide what you want and how you want to achieve it.

Not that bit no. It used to be lawn but I needed another space so I cut the lawn out and used a load of shingle that was in the back garden I wanted gone. Just as a temp measure. So under the gravel is just dirt.

Ok, thanks for that guys, Answered a fair few question marks. Back to the drawing board shirt term then.

What if I laid a slabed area, using the large 600 square concrete slabs?

What sort of price is a cubic meter if premix typically?

Well I've got a project coming up which I'd rather not do on gravel. However time isn't on my side, I wanted to sort it out before japfest but I've got way to much on to add that much extra work into my schedule. Balls. I will have to rethink my options in the sort term. I will still need the Hardstanding eventually for my car shed.

Totally agree mate, I know some would say such a rare car shouldn't be messed with, but I say it's a waste of a beautifull rare shell ESP with the bloody auto.

Bugger. So really if need frame out my area with 4x2 and compact hardcore, then have a premix lorry pour it in....pain in ass, all I want is a concrete Hardstanding lol, not a foundation gotcha super market.

I need to create a Hardstanding for the zed, to give me a good proper space for maintenance, gravel sucks. As a rough guess 3mx2m would be sufficient to cover a zed foots print? I read I need around 4" depth of concrete or 120mm, that equates to roughly 1m3 of concrete. I used a calculator and it's telling me i need 250kg concrete 400kg sharp sand 800kg of aggregate That's a lot of materials for such a small area is it not?

Power is transferred through it, think of it like a splitter block. So if you unplug the side that's feeding it you won't fervent voltage, you've in plugged it.

At a boy, it's exactly what I would have done to it.