Stephen

You have a specialist car, you need a specialist mechanic. As good as any local Mike might be they won’t have the experience, knowledge and specific tools to to the job. Any garage worth their salt turns that kinda work down, the other kind chooses to have a go and learns at your expense. That’s why your being messed about, with the best will in the world they are learning as they go. You will have to travel to get this experience, which will probably actually be cheaper too, it’s faster when you’ve done it before and it will be done once and right. In short and without being rude, your not going to find what you want on your door step, it’s not a Corsa.

You have a specialist car, you need a specialist mechanic. As good as any local Mike might be they won’t have the experience, knowledge and specific tools to to the job. Any garage worth their salt turns that kinda work down, the other kind chooses to have a go and learns at your expense. That’s why your being messed about, with the best will in the world they are learning as they go. You will have to travel to get this experience, which will probably actually be cheaper too, it’s faster when you’ve done it before and it will be done once and right. In short and without being rude, your not going to find what you want on your door step, it’s not a Corsa.

My eBay brand superior Volvo fan washers cost less than a tenner.

My eBay brand superior Volvo fan washers cost less than a tenner.

Do you own a compressor? You could wrap a rag round the blower and use it to pressurise the coolant system. Wherever the leak it will soon become apparent. Obviously be careful not to over do it. Safer than running it though. If it leaks at idle you’ve got a big leak. Common places to leak at the front there are; Radiator pipe connections. They’re plastic and crack off. Behind the two aluminium water pipes, both the rubber hoses there can split and the stubby metal ones bolted to the block rust. It’s probably quite easy to sort if your familiar with these cars. The getting hot thing is probably a lack of coolant or an air lock. Once you’ve fixed it and filled it you will need to bleed the coolant system of air.

Do you own a compressor? You could wrap a rag round the blower and use it to pressurise the coolant system. Wherever the leak it will soon become apparent. Obviously be careful not to over do it. Safer than running it though. If it leaks at idle you’ve got a big leak. Common places to leak at the front there are; Radiator pipe connections. They’re plastic and crack off. Behind the two aluminium water pipes, both the rubber hoses there can split and the stubby metal ones bolted to the block rust. It’s probably quite easy to sort if your familiar with these cars. The getting hot thing is probably a lack of coolant or an air lock. Once you’ve fixed it and filled it you will need to bleed the coolant system of air.

Now I’ve drummed up significant attention :lol: nope, your all wrong but Richie is closest. It’s currently 5 miles away from home sat somewhere safe and hidden ready to get the biggest present a car that lives outside can get.

Now I’ve drummed up significant attention :lol: nope, your all wrong but Richie is closest. It’s currently 5 miles away from home sat somewhere safe and hidden ready to get the biggest present a car that lives outside can get.

I hope the correct OEM+ washer fluid was used.

I hope the correct OEM+ washer fluid was used.

:lol: Very good, yes. Very good.

:lol: Very good, yes. Very good.

There is an empty space on my drive where my Z has parked every day for the last five years...

There is an empty space on my drive where my Z has parked every day for the last five years...

Nice one Dave.

Nice one Dave.

I’ve seen it done before but yeah, quite good.

I’ve seen it done before but yeah, quite good.

TT rads are narrower to accommodate the intercooler piping. The mounting points are also different. In short no it’s not a straight swap and requires brackets etc. Easiest to stick with designated spec.

TT rads are narrower to accommodate the intercooler piping. The mounting points are also different. In short no it’s not a straight swap and requires brackets etc. Easiest to stick with designated spec.

I purchased an engine from them and had them fit it some years ago, the service was poor and I received a non turbo engine instead of the twin which failed a few years later (very few miles due to lack of use, due to the poor fitting). They did not agree fault or to compensate me, I was within my legal right to persue them and was prepared to do so under the misale of goods act. We settled on “good will guesture” of around 1/6th of the total value of the parts and fitting I’d paid, which got me a new engine from another place. As you can imagine the story is somewhat longer than this but my advice would be the same, esp as an international buyer. I would personally not purchase from them again or recommend them.

Glad to hear this. All to often people assume turbo failure without checking the engine is operating functionally.

I wouldn’t call it a really big job as such, nothing hard just long winded and dirty. I don’t know your skill level or what tools or facilities you have. It’s not an afternoons work, you’d say it could be done in a weekend but without the knowledge or tools your going to doing lots of swearing and scouting the internet.

Yes is the short answer but there will be some faffing about as there’s absent brackets in the NA she’ll for things like intercooler pipework, minor issue. It’s a big undertaking though. The propshaft won’t be suitable.

If the spec is to be believed there’s some good parts on but the body looks tired. 4.5k I recon is more realistic