Stephen

If he takes an ibuprofen he will be alright I spec, it's only a heart attack Christ.

Bloody flies round here ATM! Do my head in, tomorrow night I will get pissed off with the mozzies down on the river bank. I just hope this high pressure contines, it's doing me some favours at present.

Oh that little hole, there's a dead end isn't there as if it was turbo pipework. The very best way forward is a split intake such as the selin system, there's cheaper ways to achieve that though. You just need a big cone though, and an adapter plate.

What ever the cause it's arbitrary now, if you want to use some more get some branded ones with the correct spigot rings torqued to spec and it will be fine :)

It's pretty lucky/hard to make 350-370 that gets quoted on the average chip you'd need way more than 12psi on stock turbos generally as well. If you want to make power on stock tubs a custom map is the way forward, safer too. You need a boost leak detector bung and a compressor, plenty of how to's on here.

The AFR should be able to allow someone with the knowledge to say you can safely turn the boost up some more or not, have you tested for boost leaks? tbh as I said earlier generic chip and 14 psi normally equals about 330-340fwhp depending on the chip and overall health, so at 12psi its not really far off that.

Exactly, I'm guessing that they are Nissan centre bore size, being used with an aftermarket wheel that isn't. It's likey a combination of factors, mine have been on for 3 years without spigot rings without doing this, (ebicah ones) however this isn't ideal and the hub centre should support the wheel not the studs. Something wasn't right with the instal and its likely set out and caused a vibrational effect causing fatigue and finally shearing, where they up to the job to start with? I couldn't say but the wrong kind of stress has been applied to the studs causing this one way or another.

Right then, some details to finalise. we can amend these as we go. We need to be on site by 10am at Coventry transport Museum(CV1 1JD) I expect earlier would be sensible so I will clarify with Lexx. We can all meet at Cherwell Valley motor service station(OX27 7RD) I believe we can access this on the north bound side, leaving us about an hour outside the venue to catch up with those travelling from the south east and south west. So around 8.30 there would be wise allowing some stragglers and some margin at the other end. So that leaves either Rownhams on the m27 this end or Chigwell to catch up with those travelling up from the SC area, whats the preference guys?

that doesn't look cool, I would say either the studs where the wrong tensile strength or the wheel wasn't fitted correctly.

No worries bud.

I think, think bob has that gear set. Maybe worth asking him?

Did you manage to speak to the venue today?

It's very very odd, maybe an expert like Noel will shed some light.

That being said the graph does say flywheel power and flywheel torque.

I would assume that too, if you guesstimate the trans loss and put it on you've got that figure 330ish fwhp.

It's not 100% stock it's got divorced down pipes, cat back and cone filter. But yeah it sounds as if mines pretty healthy.

If that's at the fly that's not right. Mine on stock ecu(no chip) stock boost (9psi) and auto turbos made 283bhp at the fly or 279bhp corrected fly wheel figure whatever that means. In my experience you should be making 330-340fwhp on that chip and 14psi.

I never saw that grey one up close but if it was as good as it looked it was under priced at £4k, 3.5k is now about the going rate for a well look after clean car, heading upwards to 5k for a good car, a car in A1 condition, of which there are very few in this country is going to cost whatever it costs to prize it out the current owners hands. The 1-2k cars that were plentiful a few years back seems to be drastically reducing as most of them were just terrors and dogs. With that in mind I wouldn't pay 4k for Uk car that needs a new front cross member and sills, even if your handy the materials are going to add up. That's an entry price car by the sound of it and worth about 1.5k depending on the rest of the car. I would hold onto your money, look to spend 3.5k ish for a clean car and spend the remainder on servicing. Plenty of good cars out there, if your prepared to wait.

What ever happened to that TT you purchased? Congrats on finally getting the thing to paint mate.

Makes logical sense I think. Plus that drive in is winner.

As said get it mapped you will gain even still at 14 psi, and will likely be able to run more.

I've been using the poor boys stuff for about a about a year now, its bloody good stuff. Simon actually commented he couldn't remember it being that shiney, had I had some work done. It hold well as well, ok my car is out of the elements virtually constantly but it has lasted about two months and still has a good deep gloss. When I do leave the car to get rained on it was lasting about a month of damn good beading and lovely shine. Must give it a damn good clean before Coventry, although it does take a beating from the country lanes with stone chips and pot holes, I'm not afraid to use it in anger so it does pick up the scratches. Here's a close up of my paint after a clay bar, then poor boys diamond white followed by poor boys natty wax, stinks of bubble gum afterwards though which is nice.

Well the ABS unit is in the boot so take a peak :D

As above or stick it on a switch, I believe jimmyTT did that. Function for track, safety for road.

A pair of gt525s