Stephen

I don't know anyone with a vg30dett with external wastegates. It's probably a space issue imagine running the Wastegate lines and mounting them...maybe a single Wastegate mounted above the trans but what a faff to gain some room at the exhaust housing.

Rotterdam working on a chlorine generator. Pesky thing.

Do you mean sissor or lambo style doors? Gull wings would have to pivot on the tbar and would require a complete custom door and targa, as our doors have no surround for the window. It's your car so do as you please however I wouldn't waste your money. They are expensive to buy expensive to fit tend to drop and do all sorts if annoying things and tbh there a bit tacky these days, even Lambos don't have them anymore.

You need to get a BIG electric fan to do the job as the viscous pulls pretty hard. The Americans often use one off a ford tanus, ideally you would wish to connect the fan to a thermostat aswel. Don't expect it to be cheap, that's why people fail with it they throw in some little ebay fan that's way undersized and then wonder why it can't keep up. Maybe your exhaust isn't loud enough? On a serious point is it jammed on?

It's going mate.

It's OK when it's working properly, which it often isn't. I like the way it makes the car change lanes and overtake like a jet fighter, I like the way it corrects that hint of oversteer allowing the back to step out like a pro. I hate the way it can catch you unaware as it becomes active mid corner whilst on the loud pedal, when you have already exhausted the touch of oversteer and now require opposite lock and get stuck in this cycle of fighting against the hicas leaving you snaking down the road. Fully working on a car used for wafting around it's got it's unique niceness, for a car that gets it's throat ringed on empty a roads or sees track time it's a scarey thing that's probably broken anyway.

I'm having the wings and bumper off this winter to delete the guff under there and simply the power steering system this winter. I do not need a massive washer resivoir or expansion bottle. BIN

Getting anything out the bay is a good move, stock it's like spaghetti bolengese.

The turbo coolant loop runs from the heater matrix hard pipes in the centre rear of the engine and then makes a loop through to the underside of the plenum and back to the heater matrix, it goes all over the place. Fortunately it just standard issue water hose no moulded or shaped pieces, I believe it's 12mm id. Get a bit off and you can get some locally, I purchased a few meters of good year hose for not much. Not the most fun to change in situee. You can fortunately delete the water circuit under the plenum and bypass the hard line parts, this will get you by till the plenum comes off for something else. Just remember not to allow the new layout to touch anything hot or get kinked and make sure to bleed the system properly.

Even the actually subframe bushes can cause wheel hop and poor launch. Hicas bushes are famous for wearing and not holding the toe angle causing it to wallop round corners and try to fish tail. It must also be mentioned when it's wet and you hammer it the diff can stuggle causing the same issue, mine has fish tailed a few times. Complete rear end change this winter anyway though.

Those brackets are nice, I was thinking about mounting my gauges there but I thought it wouldn't look right but it does so may copy you there.

I bet the 200sx boys are pulling confused faces as to why you replaced that 2l t with a 3l tt with double the hp available from stock, oh wait when you put it like that it makes perfect sense. Welcome aboard.

Iirc they don't or are a nightmare to fit. If you want matching brembos you can match them up with a particular scooby rear calliper, there is some suggestion it's no better than the zed one. From what I've read the Evo brembos with stock rears and the bm57 master cylinder should be bang on.

They are yes but he actually is the caster and machinist so no middleman. Take your disc off measure it's diameter and thickness aswel as the offset and you should be able to work it out. It's highly likely an r33 brake pair. - - - Updated - - - Yeah that's the chap.

Let's take a quick step back and overview. The fouling is fuel fouling yes? The injectors all tested within tolerance and are injecting fuel, is that a certainty? Have you tested the power supply out the injector connector? Each plug is being supplied with power and conversely a spark? (It's probably not the safe way to do it but when I had a similar issue I did indeed connect the plug loose and earth it to the plenum by resting it on it, get an assistant to spot the spark. There should be no doubt or mistake if it's working. Don't blame me if to break anything or injure yourself though it's simply what I did rightly or wrongly) Once we have decided that we have one or both then it's down to way this happens, a dead CAS or ptu refusing to allow it to happen properly. If there is spark and fuel and the timing is correct then lastly we need compression. I doubt it's that though. As a side note have you made sure the ecu temp sensor is clean and have you tried running it with the maf disconnected on a freshly reset ecu? Both those can cause stupidly confusing side effects, Infact that is what was wrong with mine. The maf was dead.

You might be able to buy a pair of gaz dampers and use your springs and tops. A lot if these dampers arnt rebuilable.

There's a company called mtec he makes discs, he's really helpfull. Reviews are pretty good and the price is very low as it casts blanks then machines them, rather than casting set discs for set cars.

Nope r32 had the same brakes as the z just a 10mm bigger disc. If they are 324 they will be r33 gtr brakes I expect, which is a good thing and should be pretty balanced.

I may be wrong but I think r32 Gtrs came with 290mm discs and four pit calupers, the 324mm discs are from the later r32 and use a four pot brembo caliper.

Black the roof bars and the rear diffuser section. Make a big difference.

Out if interest I googled it, ptfe has a melting point of 327c! Even then it doesn't really melt but turn into a gel. It does however start to degrade over 260c for a plastic that's seriously hot.

I Spose when you put it like that, but how hot is your central heating water 80c? Oils gonna be what 110c?

£20k! For another £13000 you can the whole car! http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/nissan/gt-r/nissan-gt-r-fsh--miltek-y-pipe--stage-2/2583789

Would puff tape not melt?

Christ does that rust come with the wheels or is just to balance it off the floor. If it was £500 I'd think about it but 2k nooooo