Stephen

Ian was on sky news live from time square last night.

The turbo elbow comes down 90 degrees leaving a horizontal flat to bolt upto, the same as the NA. Aftermarket TT front pipes and elbows have an odd 45 degree joint so must be used together. So if you unbolt that horizontal flange, next to the steering rack and mirror on the other side you should have a horizontal flange to bolt your na decats too. The only snag here is one of the turbo elbows on a uk car contains a precat, so you would be unbalanced unless you removed the precat or utilised a jap spec one, think it's driver side. Genuinely the worst bit will be unbolting it, the nuts on the flange rust and seize and getting the elbow off can be a mare those tight access turbo flange bolts again seize and rust, not fun. Thankfully your pulling the block, makes that wayyy easier. Again once you strip it down you will soon see what it's all about.

Yes, it will. All the solenoids do is open and close another route. If you imagine that there are two lines to the waste gate, when the Wastegate see 7psi it opens this stops more boost building and limits the pressure. So one path or tube has is just a clear tube, this has a solenoid on it that opens and closes. This opening and closing is what causes safety boost. The other line has a little brass restrictor in it like a mig welding tip but tiny, this limits the amount of pressure seen by the Wastegate and delays it's opening. So think of it as a little circuit, the boost solenoid opening and closing to to control the path of air and change the pressure seen to thecwastegate.In reality it's a little assembly of loop system, but it's easier to explain as two lines. In short, if you run an unrestricted tube to the Wastegate your car will only boost to 7psi, if you dig out the restrictor and put that inline so you have a single tube that runs to thecwastegate with the restriction you will get 9spi. This is the exact same principal as to how boost jets work. A boost controllor be it manual or electronic is mearly a valve that adjusts the pressure seen by the Wastegate to cause the engine to boost higher or lower (down to Wastegate pressure) by limiting the air pressure revived. It's also slightly misleading when we say Wastegate, as we mean actuator, the waste gate is Infact inside the turbo and open ones like flap by the actuator, just to clarify. It's a bit hard to explain, once you see it however you will understand it, it's very simple once you can visualise it. Personally I'd just take a direct feed from the Wastegate pop in the stock restrictors and tee these together the single line up to the plenum. Otherwise you be in constantly reduced boost or knowing about with the boost controllor to get 9psi, not something else you need to worry about right this moment.

You will soon see how to use the stock boost jets without the boost solenoid when you take the block out mate, there's a little tee piece assembly down there. People often remove the stock restriction them wonder why they get unusual results on the boost gauge.

No? He's fitting a spare tt engine into a na chassis?

Or refit the stock lines without the boost solenoid, there's a pair of small brass restrictors, these are what ups stock boost from actuator pressure 6-7 psi to the 9 psi, essentially you will be just bypassing the safety boost feature. That's pretty much all they do.

Personally I'd be jacking it up and checking the slave piston moves when the pedal is depressed. It may be the system still isn't bled, it's notoriously a pain in the ass.

That's correct.

Lol, gotta pay the bills somehow! Haha

For some it's too late mate. Plus the oem stuff is pretty limited in terms of adjustment.

They don't seem to ask for it anymore, when I renewed in spring I asked her if she wanted the documents and she said no no it's fine...I assumed she checked electronically but maybe they just don't consider it anymore as the system would red flag it pretty quick anyway.

Also did you mix and match? Or is it a complete tt assembly? It should be stiffer when off to when the engine is running, the idea is that it reduces the force required to push the heavier clutch, Nissan were worried gentlemen might damage thier shoes with the heavy tt clutch.

The one way valves are in the wrong places, the clutch one needs to be from the tee to the clutch, so they are seperatly valved. Otherwise your achiving nothing there with the second valve. Do your brakes work?

Very much so and being able to know the exact materials of the joints makes buying cheap Chinese arms and spend a few extra quid to change the bearings very worthwhile.

Thought this may be of use to some, http://www.mcgillmotorsport.com/male-rod-ends-metric-xm-racing-series-chromoly-kevlar-ultra-high-performance/ Replacement parts for all those bits, apparently very high quality and very cheap.

Lol, already ahead of you there bud. It will soon calm down, must be more careful really in all seriousness.

Genuinely true Si, the standards are going up and up, some seriously high quality zeds there today.

After today I found the perfect name for my car, introducing the "General Zee" why because I'm now officially a red neck, it's gonna peel I think. And some quick pics on the way there today.

Took it out got sunburned.

The sun is shining here already.

That would be ideal as not owning a printer I don't have any paper either lol

Your so right there, quality and power levels are soaring over the last few years. The amount of 400+ hp z32 is incredible right now and the number experiencing full overhaul treatment to high standards is increasing. I think with cars like this the future is safe.

I'm sure we can accomadate you Noel, be good to see you again.

Oops, walking.

I'm out wailing the dog, il PM my number it's easier.