Stephen

Yeah I know, it was more for the benifit of people reading, maybe finding this thread via the search facility and thinking they need 740s.

It’s probably worth pointing out that on stock turbos and uk pump fuel you’d be doing well to max out the 370cc stock injectors.

Oh right, I’d also thought 615s where about $100 cheaper.

What’s the reasoning behind the 740s over the 615s Si?

Is it just a stock rebuild lee or something more exciting?

I haven’t watched it. I saw the advert and saw Trump, America it’s on channel 4, I can see where this is going and it’s boring.

I’ve had this in an old ford. Doing 70mph, braked, felt a weird squirm. Tried again instinctively, nothing. Fortunately it was manual and it was all quite safe, but pretty hairy.

Bet your glad that got flagged up!

What car do you intend to put it into? The weight would concern me more.

EGR is a valve on the back of the block. The PRV and AIV are separate solenoids. Each has its own plug.

Odd it shouldn’t be. You set the engine to 0TDC then the belt has arrows to donate faceing. The lines line up with each sprocket mark. Personally I thought that’s what makes it so straightforward. It’s done now though isn’t it. Have you done the tooth count as per the FSM and set the tension? The PRFK6 11C are correct.

Just so you know, (maybe you’ve turned it over already) the white lines on the belt are guide markers.

Make the most of it for both of us Pete because il be retiring when I’m dead like most people my age. Well be pushing trolleys round B&Q as reactivated corpses paying off our mortgages and health care bills.

Not midweek with three days notice they weren’t :lol:

Isn’t a full spec ST in excess of 1400kg?

It’s not uncommon to see the newer style pintleless 555s, they are actually 615. This causes confusion. The original 555s are poorer quality.

I wouldn’t want to drive one daily. They are just to tempremental and expensive, you’d be much happier every day in a long list of stuff. Bad stuff; Parts are expensive and not available locally in the main. Servicing requires either knowledge and understanding or to use a specialist, there’s really only one in this country. Beyond an oil change your local garage being involved in these cars is a headache. Age related problems with overly complex electronics and bodywork. Crampt access around to engine and drivetrain. Turbo models come with low gears and loads of anti squat. Not a drag or circuit king. Virtually all are Targa tops, which almost without exception leak. Automatic gearboxes are terrible. Stock cars in particular have very little drama or theatre. No pops crackles and bangs here. The marque has low prestige amongst other Japanese and enthusiast cars. Don’t expect it to be an investment any time soon. Pros; Strong tuneable engine if well serviced complete with capable drivetrain. None of this adding 20% extra power and the gearbox is melting. Very capable chassis with proper suspension, no leafs or crap. Driver focused cockpit with minimal blind spots. Cheap insurance. That’s honesty imo from years of ownership and trying to be unbiased. I like my Z32 but if I wouldn’t buy another.

Try asking about oil. :P

Yeah later models had a modification on the loom so power was only applied when the ignition was powered. The effect of this is disputed. The main issue with the series one injectors was thier subseptability to ethanol, which UK fuel suffers less from than our US counterparts.

They will never feel like a new cars Brakes. Esp a car of similar performance. The design is wrong. No amount of braided lines, big brakes etc will make a Z32 Brakes like a brand new 911.

In 2 RSJs and walks time, I can.

One step forward. One step back.

I love the idea. Unfortunately il be in Westminster in London :thumbdown: I can however tell you already that you’d likely be faster than me, experience is king. Onto big Brakes. Technically Peter you have a Big Brake kit, those 350z brembos are significantly larger than stock. Stock brakes are whilst softer and less sharp than modern Brakes pretty good, if in good condition, for road use. On track, and we’ve all seen it first hand they boil and fade pretty quickly. So the obvious answer is go bigger, you will stop faster to boot... except you won’t. Stopping distance with a BBK will be no less, in fact if poorly designed it could be worse, yup worse. The limiting factor is not the brake, it’s more often than not the grip the tyre can impose. Those front tyres will lock up easy enough with stock brakes. If you want to stop faster you want grip. Then there’s issues like ABS to factor in. The reason to go for a BBK is NOT to stop faster, it’s to stop consistently without fade and failure. This must be done thoughtfully and throwing a set of 6 pot calipers with 355mm front discs and calling it quits won’t make things better, what you have there is a car that want to lock up at the front and become a dart. Useless.

Probably won’t blow past the pcv and it’s designed to be sucking through them at idle. Does it improve when upto temp? Tbh if your having the block rebuilt I’d not worry too much. Is Jimmer pulling and fitting the block or are you doing that to reduce costs?

You’ve checked for vac leaks I assume? Try disconnecting the MAF and see what happens. When you say low compression, how low?