Stephen

The arches have been cleaned and re under sealed since this pic and the brake calipers will be coming off they are just finger tight so they arnt hanging around or in the way. Sadly I think il have to reuse the old discs which are within spec for a month or so due to the budjet, they are perfectly functional and that is a big factor ATM.

Well yesterday wasn't quite as smooth as I intended. I had to go get my hair cut for starters, which just destroys the morning them runaround picking up supplies such as some 75-90 for the diff. Anyway, the subframe was a complete bitch to fit, weather that's because it's on solid mounts or that's just how it goes i don't know. I even dropped it at one point and give myself a bloody nice mark all down my neck, apparently it looks gangster so that's fine. There's no way it would have gone into position as an assembled unit with the facilities I had to hand. But some very slow inching in, patience and persuading saw it home. Hubs refitted, driftworks hicas delete fitted, and all other arms aside from the camber arm(needs some work). That's sadly it right now because that diff oil I brought was gearbox oil doh! Less haste more speed.

No I didn't notice that one lol I'm guessing it's in your possession lol

If it's a short pig tail I'm happy to provide you with it but I don't really want to hack my loom to bits. Not right now anyway.

I swear there's a multimeter based test buoy can preform, resistance reading etc. Also have you run the ecu codes?

Yeah it's the right choice for your car IMO. Any full profile pics? It's coming along nicely that car if yours mate.

How much of a pigtail do you need Joel? Mines sat there redundant. - - - Updated - - - Where did you get those from?

Good job, pays to be persistent.

Nice picture. Have you lowered it a touch more too?

For me it's right there, accessible but that's mostly because I have no aircon. If you cut the egr close enough could you get a socket on it you recon with a UJ and an extension. It's probably very well in there. Mine had actually rusted itself loose causing an exhaust leak.

You CAN by all accounts remove it in situee, I did mine out the car which took minutes. It's reportedly a lot easier to do with the plenum off. Have a little look see how you feel. Many do choose to cut and cap the lines. It's far neater to do the job properly though. Zcentre do a neat little delete kit. Jimmer sorted me out with a kit, which was great. He might have more available not sure.

Delete your EGR if you haven't already, while you are there too that will make next time easier. Infact all that garbage AIV etc will make your life progressively easier.

That's what I'd like to do. However this ones pretty cool, if not cooler with a twin turbo Lexus V8

Mines an 89 too. Although I don't think much of it is actually original lol, it's a right Frankenstein.

There is always power to the injectors even when the ignition is off, unless you have a later car or a mod. Code 21 is for no spark, could be as simple as a shit connector/connection. Start by investigating the usual culprits for code 21. Here's a start for you. http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/1106815/Is-this-CODE-21-WRITE-UP-tech-article-worthy-IMG-help-plz.html Whilst it's possible that a cable or connection has broken in the process, heat damage and age make this very possible. I very much doubt any components decided to phantomly break whilst sat there doing nothing, they didn't break in use they worked until the work was done. A new loom would be a. Great solution, if that's the issue. However a new CAS plug might of been all that was necessary.

Yes happy Eastre chaps.

The hicas unit bolts to the subframe not the diff. Unless some one knows better I wasn't aware of a difference between any if the TT diffs only the NA vs TT difference.

Have you investigated the possibly of using 550cc side feed jecs from a scooby? They are pretty cheap to pick up. Obviously you would need the adapter and plugs. Might be worth some research on your part. I'm thinking about going that route myself, from what I've worked out it would be cheaper by a long way to buy them and have them tested and cleaned etc.

Woah! 57k likely genuine being a uk model, at least more likely than a JDM. If I was in the market I'd be paying that car serious attention, looks honest from the pictures and the price is very fair.

What's the camber look like in real life? Looks really weird that. Are both sides equally low, ie the arch gap the same? Have you rolled the car forward and back or literally just dropped it back down?

Daniel son...?

Alive is always good! Look forward to finally seeing the damn this lol.

It's really sad but new tyres bring joy to me, car always feels great with brand spankers new rubber.

I know mate it's scarey. A few months ago I had ages to finish the garden, do some bits in the house and finish paying for the wedding...suddenly the wedding is like 8-9 weeks away and japfest is like 7 weeks away. I feel like I fell asleep and woke up three months later, scarey. By this time next week though il be a way forward all things being equal, I can work pretty fast when the motivation takes me haha. I'm sure we will see each other over the show season. Your always welcome to have a cuppa if your in my county as well mate.

An hour or two this afternoon and were getting a little progress sorted in the bay. Should be ready to pull very soon, fitting it in around other demands. Need to remove the lower plenum from this block for the new one and the exhaust cam and CAS as it's a late style CAS, some joy ey.