Skip to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

300ZX Owners Club

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

Stephen

Standard Member
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Country

    United Kingdom

Everything posted by Stephen

  1. Most of those people are still members??
  2. Oh and btw it will almost certainly be quicker to pull the engine and you will get a better job in the end. Unless you've simplified the bay ALOT pulling the tubs in situe is a notorious pita.
  3. Get yourself a compression test done. That's exactly how my rebuilt turbos now look after a cylinder died last summer. Excessive crank case pressure stops the turbos draining properly and it bleeds out the real seal into the exhaust housing, on overrun where there is lots of crank case pressure you loose more oil and it pools out the core like that. I believe that's what mine are doing anyway as as long as you don't let the car over run it doesn't smoke. Turbo real seal failure is typically light grey smoke that wafts at idle or billows out as you pull away after prolonged idle. If it's blue smoke then it's likely ingested oil that has been combusted, either from it being sucked into the cylinder, Pcv and blow by etc. Second hand motors are always a gamble, a great looking block may have been sat on the shelf for 3 years to run great for ten minutes then start failing. Conversely they can be a great solution if a rebuild isn't financially feasible. Rebuilt turbos are always a bit hot and miss, failure rates are quite high sadly. The quality of the rebuild preformed and the subsequent rebalancing have a big impact on that. If they were rebuilt by turbo technics though you would assume it was done to a fair standard. My money is on excessive blow caused by low compression.
  4. They look alright for baby brakes :p
  5. Strange how drastic the colour change is on TT injectors yet NA injectors remain red.
  6. Yeah so I've found, TT are supposed to be grey I'd describe mine as brown though...the wiki space sort if suggests these are as I suspected first gen tt injectors. https://z32.wikispaces.com/Fuel+Injector
  7. I've not had the joy of playing with a NA 300zx, so just want to check with those more used to the view. Are these as I suspect some dirty ass phase 1 TT injectors or phase 1 NA injectors.
  8. Believe it or not after about 4 hours of work in total the engine is almost ready to pull. Just the starter, ps pump, alternator, engine mounts and bell housing bolts to go, oh and slacken the subframe an inch or so. So by the weekend it will be ready to come out.
  9. I instantly thought that too, very 70s firebird looking rear. It doesn't however work.
  10. Actually it's mother f'er Jones... :lol:
  11. The arches have been cleaned and re under sealed since this pic and the brake calipers will be coming off they are just finger tight so they arnt hanging around or in the way. Sadly I think il have to reuse the old discs which are within spec for a month or so due to the budjet, they are perfectly functional and that is a big factor ATM.
  12. Well yesterday wasn't quite as smooth as I intended. I had to go get my hair cut for starters, which just destroys the morning them runaround picking up supplies such as some 75-90 for the diff. Anyway, the subframe was a complete bitch to fit, weather that's because it's on solid mounts or that's just how it goes i don't know. I even dropped it at one point and give myself a bloody nice mark all down my neck, apparently it looks gangster so that's fine. There's no way it would have gone into position as an assembled unit with the facilities I had to hand. But some very slow inching in, patience and persuading saw it home. Hubs refitted, driftworks hicas delete fitted, and all other arms aside from the camber arm(needs some work). That's sadly it right now because that diff oil I brought was gearbox oil doh! Less haste more speed.
  13. No I didn't notice that one lol I'm guessing it's in your possession lol
  14. If it's a short pig tail I'm happy to provide you with it but I don't really want to hack my loom to bits. Not right now anyway.
  15. I swear there's a multimeter based test buoy can preform, resistance reading etc. Also have you run the ecu codes?
  16. Yeah it's the right choice for your car IMO. Any full profile pics? It's coming along nicely that car if yours mate.
  17. How much of a pigtail do you need Joel? Mines sat there redundant. - - - Updated - - - Where did you get those from?
  18. Good job, pays to be persistent.
  19. Nice picture. Have you lowered it a touch more too?
  20. For me it's right there, accessible but that's mostly because I have no aircon. If you cut the egr close enough could you get a socket on it you recon with a UJ and an extension. It's probably very well in there. Mine had actually rusted itself loose causing an exhaust leak.
  21. You CAN by all accounts remove it in situee, I did mine out the car which took minutes. It's reportedly a lot easier to do with the plenum off. Have a little look see how you feel. Many do choose to cut and cap the lines. It's far neater to do the job properly though. Zcentre do a neat little delete kit. Jimmer sorted me out with a kit, which was great. He might have more available not sure.
  22. Delete your EGR if you haven't already, while you are there too that will make next time easier. Infact all that garbage AIV etc will make your life progressively easier.
  23. That's what I'd like to do. However this ones pretty cool, if not cooler with a twin turbo Lexus V8
  24. Mines an 89 too. Although I don't think much of it is actually original lol, it's a right Frankenstein.

Important Information

Terms of Use

Account

Navigation

Search

Search

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.