Stephen

Doesn't it scratch? Looks like it could be a good thing to scratch paint with.

I may do that actually mate as I normally slink off at lunch time or do before things get busy.

Do you need all those gauges on display at all times? As said a lot can be read of ecu talk or similar. Why not as I know you love this kinda stuff hook up a little computer screen in the double din slot to use the computer for those readings.

Ah that's a shame mate, you going to swing by for a chat seeings as you already have the ticket? Or sell them on a few people are hunting tickets.

Just everything else to reassemble now. Recon you will have it ready for castle combe on the 16th as planned?

Your going to have replace more than that I'm afraid if you wish to do a proper job. You can see from the photo rot has started on the inner sill too. Sadly I think your in for a bigger job than it may at first appear. You could patch it for a while till funds allow a proper repair but it would be a temporary repair ie a bodge. I've got a similar situation myself.

Yeah. In fact the only non solid joints I have now are some polybushes on the hubs oh and I've retained the stock lower arm bushes and ball joint apparently they make a big difference to comfort in a negative way without such a large difference to handling. Plus I ran out of money and time lol.

It's out. I'm swapping blocks out as the one I had in is toast. I know lots of people like to pull the trans attached but I just don't for a few reasons. Firstly the engine on it's own is an easier package to manorve across the gravel drive. Secondly the crane is rated to hold 250kg at that extension, meaning I would have to get closer to the shell, ie more disassembly. Those two things are worth the hassle of assembling the engine onto the trans in situee, which if the clutch is aligned properly isn't that bad at all imo.

That's the set up I've switch too, hopefully I will notice a difference.

Tried this yesterday and failed, I only had a three hour window to do it and I was going to have to change the hacking positions to finish up safely. Anyways I formed a plan after chatting with gaz. So I got up sorted myself out and went for my Sunday run then straight home ready to pull the damn thing. By 9am the gearbox was on the floor and the engine tucked out back. This stage saw a sigh of relief. its 11.30 I've got up, been for a run, dropped a gearbox, pulled an engine, tidied up, showered, dressed, done the food shopping and had a well earned bacon and a fresh laidly egg sarnine. Productive morning. Always nice.

Just keep at it bud. At least you've got a window to work on it.

Bloody technology ey

Did you take pictures?

I hate tracks like that in the zed, all the loose stones that flick up underneath and the big holes you have to navigate round and ruts that scrap the exhaust and chassis rails. Not the car for tracks proper roads only lol.

Having a mind blank, do I need to drop the engine crossmember for removal without the box? The cars currently on stands at the front, will I need to shift the support to axel stands to allow it to drop. Looking to do this today and my mind is blank.

You need to locate the cylinder at fault first and foremost. Then diagnose why, fuel, spark, compression, timing unlikely if it's one that's wrong. Most likely duff wiring but your shooting in the dark till then.

Saw a dark coloured zed zipping along the M4 today about 13.45ish. Couldn't be more specific as I only saw the roof line over the Armco I was heading east in the van.

I haven't done it myself so you would have to look it up but I believe certain ones do. You need the side feed ones as apposed to top feed. The other thing is I think all skyline injectors are what we consider "new style" shape and therefore require an adapter and new connections on the loom. I'm looking to utilise subaru ones personally for the same reason you out lined.

In that case defiantly buy the lot. Better to have it and not need it, otherwise it will be sat there waiting for the part at the shop and no one likes that.

You doing the work yourself Gary? I just changed the pulleys as two were noisy and the third was leaking grease. It had had a belt change in recent years so after inspection I deemed it unnecessary to change the tensioner itself, but it would be your choice. This engine has been serviced to a budget. If the money is there it makes sense to change such a vital little component.

How small do you want to go? The little vac pipes have no clamps from factory.

Where did the strut braces come from?

As per usual. When I have more time il be ripping ours up and redoing it. The previous owner fitted(bodged) it, so gaps between the slats and no run off so it's suffered and has got very damp and rotted in places. Numpty. TBF they did worse to this house lol.

Would a meter on AC on the connector not show this up? Broken or incomplete circuit, no voltage?

Did you get that number (18") from the AEM installation guide? If so is follow thier recommendations. And put it 18"/45cm away from the manifold, at a guess that's about a third of the way down the front pipe not in the turbo elbow at all.