Stephen

What is it your after Scott? I'm sure someone will be doing an order soon if your not in a hurry.

I'm pleased to see this hasn't got silly yet. It would be really good if we could actually continue this way until we all make our votes either way. I know the mods are sitting on tender hooks with it but so far it's very balanced and constructive even if the majority seem to feel the same way.

The funniest part about those people is the people they want to send back are often more British than they are.

There in lies the biggest issue. You cannot simply state by not paying 17B to be in the club will automatically loose the 58B, is unclear how much would be lost. This is where I agree with lexx that the out campaign aren't really doing much to answer these kind of questions. I know it's impossible to accurately forecast but their current answer is "it will be ok". Make no mistake it's a gamble and it's a gamble were not actually being given odds on or even a contingent for if it back fires. Yes I want out but I want to know where I'm going once I'm out.

It's a different world to here and many other places in Britian. Changing from a bunch of European toffs to exclusively londoncentric toffs won't impact that. I want out, but I want more than what's on offer I think. My minds pretty much made up on the out verdict, I'm not convinced it will change much if anything though.

So I finished stripping the block today. Still got to fully inspect the rods but they arnt visibly bent. The rods and Pistons will be replaced in any event. Cylinder 4 the low compression one pretty much fell out. Number six required some encouragement. Crank looks great as do the cylinder walls. The next step really is to clean the block down and take some measurements to check the deck, piston round and size and crank. The big end crank bearing show some marking on two, not sure if this is normal wear? Appears uneven. I did notice it appears two bolts are missing from the oil pump...should there have been bolts in here? Another point I need clarification on, I take it the valves stamped 30 are NA valves and TT valves would have 40? Following suit with other things like heads, Pistons etc?

Scratch that, first pic is fairly mucky.

As I say they may have come from a donnor car, they could be 10th hand. That being said they appear to have very little corrosion and adjustable preload. The only way to know is to remove one and see what's on it. You may well be right that they are cheap crap. Whatever the case I can tell you I wouldn't drive that car on them with that crack.

It's worth remembering that even if we do get independence that won't change really. The UK will still be governed from one city that's detached both economically and culturally from the rest of its own country let alone the other three countries in the union.

Who is made by? How old is it? What's happened to it? There's a thousand reasons that might be cracked, poor quality materials is simply one option. You never know what's occurred, the car, maybe not even yours , donnor part, may had had a crash.

I've actually has this happen. I swapped a failed one out when I switched blocks. The old block though it's quite obvious that, two of the pistons are no longer central. Thinking back I think at least one of the non central ones is the one that had that failing injector. I'm currently assuming preignition bent the rod though.

I assume that would cause a rich condition and provide dark grey/black smoke with a sotty appreance?

A lot of it's the same stuff, say japspeed is most likely the same Chinese manufacturer. Just as a word of warning, if you go mental with solid joints etc you will end up with a harsh ride. There are half way points though and alternatives. Like I said to bird you need to work out what you want to achieve and what your prepared to sacrifice for your end result.

Those are subframe and diff solid mounts. I have them fitted. You probably won't want to fit those lol, very harsh.

That's only IF we remain in the trade bloc. It's also worth noting that our economy is the size of all those half member nations combined, so we're in a very different position in terms of bargaining power. However no arrangements or plans seem to be discussed as to how we would operate, in or out or what we'd ask for.

So you have excessive negative camber?

The first question to ask is what do you want to achieve.

My heart says leave, I wish to vote leave get my head hasn't decided. The case to leave so far consists of, "it will be alright" that's not a plan that's a hope. I really don't know. I don't feel Cameron has the kahunas to do the job either way.

No. The pcv system scavenges blow by gasses putting your crank case into vacuum. If your car is smoking due to either blow by causing the turbos to back up and leak, shown as grey smoke at idle or the car is smoking on deceleration due to oil being drawn into the bore, shown by blue smoke. Removing the PCV could actually make your symptoms worse, that is assuming your PCVs are in good order to begin with. If you have a worn engine you will need more scavenging not less. If you want to check it's not your engine causing the issue the best way to start is firstly reading the smoke, colour, when it happens etc then preform a compression test or better still a cylinder leakage test. If the block tests up all good then the first thing I'd do if you haven't already is actually refresh the stock PCV system. Make sure the brass restrictions in the front pipe are still there.

Ooooo that sucks

It would appear at least one piston isn't central in the bore. I haven't actually pulled the Pistons and rods yet. Need to get them some clean storage. I'm assuming the rod is bent. Clearance one side is 0.5mm the other side is 0.09mm anyone know what the piston to wall clearance should be? The bores look very clean, no scratches etc, the original hone is still viewable. Same situation on cyl 2 and 4. The rest are even.

As you have a one piece clutch line. Use the slave bleed to drain the system, then unbolt the slave from the bell housing. Then unbolt the clutch master by the two bolts on the firewall and pull the whole thing out. The master can be rebuilt. Then bench bleed the system and refit.

Turbo are different from manual to auto but only by AR basically the wheels and housings are very slightly different. In terms of rebuilding them the core is universal between T22,25 and 28 so you simply need that kit. Add step gap exhaust seals and 360' trust bearings while your in there and ensure you get them balanced afterwards.

That's cool. Mine seems to launch much better now I've refurbed stuff, no more fish tailing.

I'm guessing, cos from my limited experience your end speed is over 100 it was your first 1/8th of a mile tat slowed you. Difficult launches? Did you video it? As I say mate well done. Hoping to join in this summer. Maybe we can meet up there.