Clarkey

stuff is overrated imo. My Colt is packed with dynamat extreme and I can barely tell any difference in cabin noise over my old one which didn't have any.

yeah the button is below the stereo, from what I've seen the option is not all that common, certainly in the minority. Might be handy though, I always end up parking too far away from things.

not *that* hard to do, I was swearing at it quite a bit until I realised the second bolt on the recirc is down the back and you need to remove the AC fan to get at it, after that it's fairly plain sailing. Airbox is a bit of a swine to get out, looks like it would be easy with the bumper removed though.

That's better than I'd expect tbh, can't see why you are disappointed that's a good result. Why not run 1.0bar anyway?

Not being funny but that bonnet looks terrible, I'd seriously cancel the order.

probably a comp spec fuel cell, in fact I think such a thing can be seen through that mesh. Looks pretty ricey if you ask me though, if it's a case of 'because race car' then just go for side pipes and run a deeper diffuser. I don't see a cage in there though so I guess it's just for hard parking.

I'll bet it's down to bad capacitors, take it apart and see if any of the caps have the top bulging out, if so replace them (the spec should be written on them) and all should be fine.

take the lights out, split them, give the lenses a good cleaning, if the adjusters don't work then replace the gears with Tamiya 50602 (one set for each adjuster, there's 4 in total, probably won't need to mess with high beam though). Fit HID system, set up the alignment accurately, see the road. Honestly though, I've done all that and the beam still isn't as good as the boggo H4 reflector lights in my shonky old Colt, I'm sure you will see a huge improvement though. Next job on my list is to experiment with the bulb position to see if maybe the light source (which is not in the same position in an HID bulb as a standard H3) can be moved closer to the normal focal point and get a better beam dispersal.

you still doing the spoilers Car.Mad?

this chap not do the 89 spoilers any more? I saw some posts about them from 2010 but can't see any listed there now. I need a replacement one.

technically speaking, v tech is a childrens toy.

Never understood the whole drilled discs thing, you can clearly see the cracking around the holes in that photo there, do not want! Larger discs will of course improve the braking, it's simple physics. Same force, larger distance from fulcrum = larger torque.

yeah that's only going to work if your wheels have recessed holes on the mounting face between the bolt holes, like this one.. http://images34.fotki.com/v1080/photos/5/545581/5490985/IMG_3560-vi.jpg Many wheels don't, I know the BBS wheels on my colt have a flat face and caused problems even with the drum retaining screw.

so, a car with bad wheel alignment. Can't see how this is 'epic fail'.

not seen it, I live close though and always take the zed there for fuel so if you see a pearl 2+2 then that'll be me.

IE8 is old and can't really be compared, IE9 is better and has been out for ages. Still, chrome is nice and fast I use it now after giving up on the shambles that Firefox has become.

I'd hope the HID4U kit is better quality than the usual ebay kits. I got one of those ebay kits and the quality isn't up to much. Got 35w 4300K, just like a typical OEM HID light. I didn't want an aftermarket looking blue-ish light, but that's what I got, I suspect these are actually 6000K. They do flicker a bit too. I noticed the light is not spread particularly evenly across the beam, there's a noticable concentration of bright light in the middle of the beam. This is to do with the focal point of the HID not being totally suitable for the halogen projector? Cut off isn't amazingly sharp either. It's much better than the stock light was, but the stock light wasn't working particularly well before. The inside of the projector lens was pretty dirty, cleaning this made a noticeable improvement, also improved the bright spot situation. Most importantly though, the aim was totally out of whack, much too low and miles too far to the left. Set up the height but not the left/right yet as the adjusters are broken, should be much better when fixed, currently the grass verge is super bright :p I guess the moral of the story is that the setup and cleanliness of the light is more important than the light source itself. Also that 35w is plenty bright, actual light output is roughly 3 times that of a 55w halogen bulb, 1000 lumen vs 3000 lumen. Oh yeah and blue-ish high colour temp isn't very nice either, go 4300k, better light output and nicer on the eyes.

It's been done for certain, not sure if by anybody here though. Couldn't tell you much detail about it, but you'll need a gearbox adapter plate to use the Z32 box with it.

Try MJP eastern auto.

Yeah just take the motor off the odometer and turn it to your hearts content. It's not really a sensitive topic, any dodgy ******* wanting to clock a car will know how to do it anyway, and there is an openly available tutorial online of how to do this.

Because they didn't sell very many ;) Maybe, because it was a 10 year old model and a bit of a dinosaur in the product range at that time. edit - actually I'm an idiot, Version-s was introduced in 1994, it's a cut down 300zx basically without the nice stuff which makes it awesome. Version R is the real deal.

Thanks, i'll check that out. What is the easiest way to remove the headlights?

Surely no use to a zed with separate high and low beam units though.

Hi, I'm trying to improve the low beam, I managed to clean off the projector lenses and set the height, but I can't seem to adjust them left/right which is a problem as they are way too far to the left atm. I read the manual and found this page http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=el&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=54&design=default&total=133 Those adjustments don't match up with what I have on the car though, maybe it's some kind of JDM difference, my car is an import. On that diagram there where it says left/right adjust, that actually adjusts the height and works well. There is a screw in the location where it says height adjust, but it doesn't seem to turn at all. There is another screw on a little box on the back of the light unit, on that diagram it would be just to the left of the 'left/right adjust'. Anyway this screw just turns freely without doing anything. Now I have read about adjusters having broken gears, so maybe this is the problem that I have? What do you guys think, and if this is the problem then how does one go about fixing it? Thanks.

I take it this is being stored outdoors? Is it really worth bothering parking it up outdoors? In my experience cars rot and deteriorate quickly when left parked up outside, maybe better off using it and just keeping it well cleaned. Oh and your tyres won't flat spot from being parked. If you are going to do this then definitely do the maintenance work after getting it back on the road, and be sure to get it really hot before draining the oil, it will accumulate condensation in the engine.