Clarkey

That tyre is enormous, fit normal size ones and the problem will go away.

I've never seen footage of the legendary JUN machine before, but here it is. Seems like a 900hp VG has monster lag :D

They do trim the AFR, but only for idle and cruise. Acceleration is dealt with in open loop mode i.e. no deviation from the mapping.

That isn't true, the direction automatically adjusts.

x100 mmHg

Continental SportContact5 or Goodyear Eagle F1 Asy2. Don't waste your time with cheap tyres, they are just that.

how is the accuracy of such a gauge?

Neither, get a nice classy Nardi in there. Leave those tacky looking things for corsas ;)

Tread looks like any normal tyre to me. I run AD08s with less sipes than those and don't aquaplane too bad really.

No, pearl is only on JDM models.

When cleaned and aligned correctly they will be dramatically improved. Adjusters were broken on mine, they can be repaired with some Tamiya differential gears though. Do all this then put HID in and you will have good lights. You will have a problem with the HIDs being dim as hell when you dip your lights after prolonged main beam, and they go off when you flash the main beam. Simple workaround just connect the negative wire from the ballast to ground and both dip and main will run simultaneously.

A friend had one, albiet an E500. It was massively unreliable and cost him a fortune in repairs.

If it's hopping then increase the damping, simples. If you do this and get the spring under control but the tyres skip across bumps then yeah spring rate too hard for your application.

How old are the teins? If they are visually deteriorated at all then I wouldn't bother, they are probably knackered and you can't have them rebuilt in the UK.

Potenza S02 are a good tyre. These are serious cars, don't play around with toytown tyres.

Different countries have different regulations. Afaik there are no differences in panels except for side markers in front wings, only bumpers and that is to accomodate things like reg plates, fog lights, light washers, parking aids. Might be obvious to most here, but UK spec only ever came in 2+2 Twin turbo. The Japanese market got a wide range of models including NA engines, SWB 2 seaters, tin tops. The model ran on until 2000, long after it was axed in the UK, 1999 saw a facelift across the range and a couple of special versions.

Depends what you want from the car. Unless you are tracking the car or want the ultimate stance then coilovers are probably unnecessary. I run HSD HR on my BMW and despite them being about the best damped units this side of KWv3 the ride is borderline intolerable combined with Neova AD08 tyres. I'm a geek when it comes to stuff like that though and often spend my free time at the alignment shop tweaking the setup to the nth degree. Before 'coilies' became so popular, the standard choice for zed owners was eibach springs and Koni shocks.

Rim width has nothing to do with offset, and no effect on track width. Hub width - wheel offset = track width.

I'd keep it even if it was a track car tbh, most trackday organisers don't allow you to drive with windows open and many require long sleeves. Is hot as **** in a closed cabin car on a hot day, really unpleasant.

Miniscule performance advantage at the cost of having a comfortable cabin, seems like a stupid idea to me, can't understand it at all.

Why do you need such massive tyres anyway?

I think the fact it is reading vacuum when sitting in free air says it all.

only 30% better tops, still garbage then.

They should match perfectly.

Set the actual timing so that it matches what you see on a conzult/datascan/whatever.