Yowser

Yep put the targa's on top.....if your parking up you'll be wanting to fit them back on anyway. If you dont have the standard targa bags its worth getting them. You may even be able to use the standard boot straps to secure the pushchair and targas.

MAF is certainly the most likely cause, but whats the running problem your experiencing ?

Yep, watched the first couple on TV then ended up downloading the entire series and watched the lot. Realy good, but a little short. Only 6 episodes. Andy Whitfield will unfortunatly not be returning. as the cancer has returned :( , and they have announced his replacement as Liam McIntyre.

Crest cars have a bit of a bad rep Im afraid on here. Have a search of the forum to see.

Lighter, faster, better handling - the reasons performance cars exist. A SWB and especially a slicktop is a different car to drive than a 2+2. Looks are subjective ofcourse, but many also buy becuase they prefer the look of the exterior and interior of a SWB. The SWB also has a bigger boot. If you need to carry very small people in the back then get a LWB, if you dont then get a SWB.

LOL . Good work ! Not purchased a new hole drill yet since migrating back then ? :p

As said, ofcourse judge every car individually, and the amount of time spent in the UK is the key point. But it is true that a recent import literally looks like new underneath, whereas a UK car is typically riddled with disease. Plus all the best types of Z's are imports ;) :p

Congrats to you both Dave ! :gunsmilie:

PMSL:lol: +4

bit of a strange request this but.... Does anyone have any aftermarket Rear camber arm or Front tension arms lieng about not fitted ? They need to be of the round tube type. What I need to know is the outer diameter of either. Also the outer diameter of any rose joint or spherical bearings they have fitted. Can anyone help ?

Engine - 600-800 (If you can prove running with no leaks or smoke, and with a good compression test - otherwise 300-500 as an untested engine) Gearbox - 500-600 for Manual Converison kit or 200-300 for autobox Maf - 100 (sx owners) Brakes Front brakes - 100 (sx owners) Rear brakes - 100 (sx owners) Brake Master cylinder - 60 (sx owners) Aftermarket SS exhaust - 100-250 UK clocks - 100 Good condition leather seats or a later series Suede or Velour interior can sell quite well. A lot of potential profit is from Aftermarket parts though. But dont underestimate the amount of time and space required. A lot of parts invovle so much labour its just not worth selling them.

an E-type...oh gawd.. :wacko: its just a bit of light entertainment, but Everything is staged, its too false. A lot of the time you can see that extra work that has been done to the cars thats never mentioned in the show or you can see shoddy bodge jobs done on them when they sell them. Then they end up making virtually no profit, and thats without even including labour. The buyers and sellers are all members of the crew or relatives/friends, everythign from Mike buying the car to him selling the car is fake.

The spares definatly fit front and rear with standard brakes without any problems....well, other than being yellow and embarsingly narrow.

Yeh, all shorties have the Deflated space saver....but the pump is often missing :/

Used to be a fan when I was about 16. But no longer keen on the looks - Exterior or interior. Driven and worked on a NA and a TT, a decent cruiser but too big and heavy to be chucked around like the Z. Has wet weather grip advantage ofcourse but other than that its a little slower with all the extra weight and 4wd drivetrain losses. Harder to work on than the Z too. The comparison magazine reviews between it and the Z were very unfavourable to the gto.

Really its meant for Race use, I dont really see the point for Street use in the 300zx. Everything is designed to work within a certain optimum temperature range, too cold is just as bad as too hot, and the ECU alters fueling, timing and boost limits when not within the optimum temperature range. The thermostat controls the operating temp and fluid flow anyhow and if the cooling system cant keep the car in the optimum temp range in street use then it needs a maintenance overhaul instead. For Track work or very highly modified Z's , where higher temperatures may be achieved, and the cooling sytem cant cope, then it makes sense.

15

Unless you have a TT gearbox lieng around, then just grind the NA bellhousing and shim the Startermotor. Its only a couple of mm. There is a handy pic from Slick pete here that illustrates the area that needs grinding a little. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=134163&highlight=bellhousing

....or.......you could fix your o2 sensor issue causing the code33's....

The lower threaded hole will be there, the top one wont. As groover has explained above. I used FIA harness brackets, cut down to fit inside the B-pillar and weld tacked, to hold in place. Sort of tricky to get in place as you only have access to the inside of the b-pillar from the holes lower down.

m.a.y.b.e.

^^^ Yep, this. One of the top gearbox bellhousing bolts.

Its not a fault of the disc lifespan, its all down to how they are bedded in and then used, which can cause excessive build up of pad resiude on the disc. Its the same issue for all Brake setups and is usually mistaken for Warping. By getting them up to temp at speed with some long braking sessions you may be able to clear it, or have you considered having then skimmed? Although if the discs has turned blue, from overheating then irreversible damage has been caused.

No idea what this is about, but there is usually 3 sides to every story.

I believe the stye of the wheel, rather than the number of spokes makes a far bigger difference. My previous Z's with 5 spokes :