Yowser

It should be quite comparable with a chipped 300zx. Not sure what difference there is in performance with the vert though. Are you sure your making use of that 8k rev limit, after driving around in an astra diesel all this time :tt2::rofl:

There is so much you wont be able to check yourself though, so really the easiest thing is to have it fail at the mot, then you have an exact list of the things to sort out. The retest is usually free and they only recheck the items on the list.

Looking good Alan. its Quite understated in Black. Most noticable differeence between the two is coupe vs saloon. But if you were comparing the same shape I think the bumpers are different (lower) and the front and rear arches give it a wider stance, and the front wing grills and the quad exhausts ? Only so much manufacturers can do really. I think the most noticable M-car difference is with the E30 M3.

Nice, one of the best Daily drivers you can get imo. Some topend alloys (hartage, alpina, other bmw option..etc) would make all the difference to the looks. Im looking at either a e46 330D or e39 530D for my DD next. The 3series has a younger/sportier look to it, but I prefer the 5series really, has that extra quality and refinement. Would be happy with either though.

Wiring/connector issues with the Injectors are just as likely as Wiring/connector issues with the Coilpacks. The Injector connector sits a couple of inches in from the coilpack. They use a smaller plastic connector with a metal pin to hold them on, although they are often broken, or break when removing. * If you get a spark then the Coilpack wiring is ok, and its most likely a wiring or connector issue with the Injector instead.

All Paint suppliers use computerised systems as far as Im aware. But its up to the guy working there to then manually mix up the correct parts to the correct weights according to what the computer tells him. Its very much a manual process, dependent on the guy serving you. Which is luck of the draw in a place like Halfords.

If you have'nt confirmed if its definatly spark or Fuel related yet, do as Mikey described first. Actual Injector and Coilpack failure is rare, its usually the Wiring loom and connectors. It may even be signs of the PTU on its way out. A common failure item quite typical for it to fail on one circuit before eventual failure across all. The wiring looms are notorious for failure at this age. You will probably find most of it is brittle. Injector and coilpack connectors tend to build up corrosion on the metal contacts. Check and clean them up, and try wiggling the injector and coilpack connectors and wiring gently to see if it fires into life. A complete new loom is around 300 pounds, but is probably one of the best reliablity investments you can make for the Z. Alternatively you can get new coilpack and Injector harness looms for less which you can cut and solder into the old main Loom.

Last time I went to get paint mixed up at halfords, I went there for Bayside blue, which is a heavily metallic paint with a lot of dark to light colour change. The Halfords system even desribed it as "Metallic Pearl Blue", but what they they gave was a non-metallic Navy Blue...and then tried to argue about it being correct.

Quite a typical Z sound, as the Kakimoto is a common exhaust on Imports. Personally I much prefer the sound of the Z with a Single exhaust. Its intoxicating and gives me a grin ear to ear with every throttle touch, whereas I've never been fussed about the dual exit sound. Unfortunatly single exit looks terrible with a missing hole on the other side, so all my Z's have been Twin exit like the Kakimoto.

You are correct (for Jap and Euro spec), but have to be careful when looking at courtesy becuase there are some differences between U.S spec (which Courtesy sell) and the rest of the world. Not many, but in this case the U.S spec front wings dont have indicator cutouts like Euro and Jap spec does. There are yearly differences between doors, in terms of seatbelt location (Door vs B-pillar) and side impact bars. Also the U.S did'nt always get the same changes at the same time as Euro and Japan spec, so cant always rely on an exact model year.

I have access to some tasty FEA (Finite element analysis) software, and if I get time I'd love to model the Z in it. The sort of software that F1 and Motorsport teams use for their cars. Its very time consuming though. Would be able to simulate the aerodynamic affects of bodywork changes like bumpers, skirts, spoilers on the 300zx. Also have a couple of wind tunnels. Unfortunatly one is for scaled models, and the other will only take single seater race cars. Any bigger and the tunnel walls would interfere with flow results.

Properly setting it up involves several hard acceleration runs so If you want a garage to do it, then your best off choosing one with a Rolling Road. That way it can be setup on the RR, instead of a stranger ragging your car up and down public roads. Alternatively I wrote a short Electronic boost controller setup guide some time ago, here is a copy : Its not specific to the AVC-R, so some terminology may differ (I think i wrote it with the Profec B Spec II in mind originally) , but as an generic guide it may help.

Yay. Will try and pick one up later

Sorry, cant stand them. They look like a Vauxhall omega with a rediculous bodykit stuck on and with a big old crude V8 slapped in. Its sometimes described as a cut-price M5, but its Cheap and tacky and I would'nt put it anywhere near in the same league. Did I mention that i dont like them? :lol: to answer your question : Bathurst 12hr 2011 Class C - 1st place 2010 Class B - 2nd place 2009 Class A and Class D - 1st places 2008 Class B and Class C - 1st places 2007 Class A and Class F - 1st places ....shall I keep going :tt2: :tt2: :lol:

True, it wont turn as many heads as the Z does, but still a very good looking car imo. The appeal is an attractive 4 door saloon with a snarling V8 that would embarass most Sports cars on straights and through the twisties, including the Z unfortunatly, and is a very high quality car that makes other cars feel cheap and plasticky. There are other praticle 4 door sports cars, like the Impreza, Evo, Monaro VXR....but they are all chavtastic low quality plastic monstrosities. Then you have the high performance models from Mercedes and Audi..etc , but they are never been able to compete as drivers cars with the M5. The M5 outperforms them all, and with style and high quality engineering.

Yep, Im ashamed to say it did make me laugh. The original was apparantly some kid mimicking a 2 stroke motorbike, and it was put to this f1 pic a few years later, and then made into the crazy frog a few years after that.

0.26 for the base model 8v Calibra 0.28-0.29 for the Vectra and rest of the calibra's Impressive. When you see a Coefficient of Drag (CD) listed for an entire model range, it will typically be for the base model of that range and the performance models will actually have a higher CD. The 300zx had a CD of is 0.31-0.32 , which is pretty good for its age. Although the more box-shape Z31 actually has a lower CD than the Z32, at 0.30 Performance cars often have a higher CD than non-performance models becuase of things like Wider tyres, aerodynamic wings and even improved engine cooling requirements. In high performance vehicles reducing lift (increasing downforce) is often more important than reducing drag.

Noice :cool:

No, you don't use a 2nd solenoid , what you need to do is loop the two actuator feeds together to the one solenoid.

Were you under the impression that Boost jets were recommended over an Elecronic boost controller (EBC) ? An EBC is always a better option. Boost jets are just a very cheap and simple alternative to an EBC, but they lack the control, safety and performanace a EBC provides. Advantages of a EBC (compared to Boost jets) - Easy adjustment of Boost levels and different modes for different conditions (eg. Valet, Wet/dry, overtaking, track) - Boost is built up quicker and stronger offering further performance advantages - Overboost warnings and protection from overboosting & spiking - Built in Boost gauge (usually) Disadvantages of a EBC (compared to Boost jets) - Expensive - Harder to Install and setup - User has temptation of messing with boost levels and overboosting; self control and knowledge required.

On your VIN plate on the slam panel in engine bay, also on your V5 reg document. If its a UK it will start with JN1 and be about 16 chars long. If its Jap it will be shorter, prob start with GCZ32 , but dealers usually wont recognise Import numbers.

just realised my albums seem to be ripped at 320 kpbs, which I think is overkill ? Must have used wrong setting at some point. In which case mine are larger than they should be/need to be.

...repost..

Just checked the albums I have ripped from CD's on this PC and they vary from 126mb - 156mb for your usual 1 CD album with about a dozen tracks. So about 25-30 albums, or 350-400 songs I reckon.

:( Sorry to hear. Wishing Craig a speedy and full recovery.