Yowser

Ditch the Evo instead ! :)

no, thats definatly not normal. Sounds like your experiencing common issue of seized Caliper pistons. You'll need to overhaul the calipers.

Yep, they keep changing the Site structure.:( You find all the broken Aus300zx links on there A-Z list tech list here : http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?cat.4

Did'nt realise Venom had released 440cc versions. I doubt anyone has them fitted though. Yes, he is talking about increasing the fuel pressure, which requires a Aftermarket FPR..but it will mean your running them at 100% constantly and you wont know how much you need to adjust it by, and still dont think it will be able to fuel properly when the ECU is configured for a 440cc fuel duty. Sounds to me like the guy has experience with chips for other Jap cars (such as 200sx) and has incorrectly adapted it for the 300zx...who knows whats really on the chip.

Avoid cheap versions, such as those found on ebay. Unless you want them only for looks. They are weak and flimsy with hinged ends and often have bad fitment. There are very few braces that actually do there job properly..... 'Carbing' would be my recomendation.

Definatly not a JD chip. and the guy does NOT know what he is talking about. There are no 440cc off the shelf injector options for the 300zx , and if it is mapped for such an odd injector size then it will overfuel on the stock 370cc injectors, "tweaking" the Fuel regulator will not work and is not even possible with standard regulator ! You would need much larger turbos to achieve 400 rwhp, which would require different mapping to stock turbos. Avoid ! Do not buy! John dixon charges less than £100 for a chip. AndyP and Danny@DTA also have suitable options.

We had a club stand there in 2006, might be good to sort one out again this year.

btw - dont drive the car with this problem, you could cook the head gaskets. It could also mean you have a leak and its drawing in air. Also check the Radiator cap as well to make sure the seal is in good condition or it wont be pressurising properly. Also.... Your issue is definatly the cooling system, but for the benefit of others - Gurgling is a common issue with the AIV system, which could be mistaken for a problem with the cooling system.

was a joke as Joel hasn't lowered it yet....his pics are a photoshop ;) see previous post.

The finish looks great in the pics, and it looks fantastic sporting them fitted. :cool: Lower....Lower.. :D I do believe Joel is using the same lowering setup as me. Before After ;)

Should go just past the solid line, for both Jap(-7 to +7) and UK (-14 to +14) but the gauge is very inaccurate so I would'nt pay too much attention to it. You need an aftermarket gauge really.

Jack the front of the car up. Remove rad cap and the top bleed screw on other side of rad and keep topping up the water until there are no more bubbles.

I would also redo the ECU check again, but after taking the car for a blast and then without switching ignition completely off. Code34 is reset with the ignition off.

eek, sorry to hear. The loss of back pressure from the decats have killed your tired tubs unfortunately. Engine removal time. You can get your standard turbos reconditioned, I highly recommend Turbo Dynamics. Your looking at around £800 for the pair, or spend a little more to have them rebuilt with modified housings and larger impellors. The other option it to import a set ot turbos, standard or upgraded from the U.S Sticking a set of 2nd hand turbo's back on is a huge risk. Its a big job to remove the engine, fit 2nd hand turbos, refit and find they give up 500 miles down the road as well.

Happy Birthday to you both :duffer: :duffer:

No, code 34 will not affect idle. Lots of potential reasons but most likely are sticking idle control valve or an air leak.

no, each gear has it own syncro. its unusual for it to occur with 2nd gear though, usually 4th gear syncro is the weak one. Check gearbox oil level and it would be a good idea to replace it. Redline MT90 is popular for solving syncro crunch issues.

I prefer when the outline lights up instead of the whole thing. Si, I dont think its a genunine 99spec panel, just that they have chrome painted the inners. Good price though

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=106809

..or.. Cowl (or cowling)

Pretty straight forward, you'll see hte huge great big bolts holding the thing onto the Subframe. Its weighs about 50kg though, so carefull when unbolting it.

Correct...and lower weight. Will limit top speed to around 165...but it will get there quicker. You need to swap the entire rear subframe and driveshafts, as the NA diff will not bolt onto the TT subframe. In theory the NA diff and driveshafts are not as strong as the TT version, but your not going to break anything unless your dropping the clutch on drag starts with 500hp+ to the wheels.

Leave it be, It like its like that !

Its a BOMB....run !!!! Not actually sure on that one on a shortie....I'd go with Fuel pump ECU/Controller. On a LWB its behind one of the panels next to rear seat.

or fit a H3 HID kit instead.....£100......well worth it, I would'nt have a Z32 without them !!!