Yowser

While you may make a little more power running the boost up to 16/17 psi (with bigger injectors and intercoolers), dont expect the turbos to last very long at all.

Yes, but lower quality and heavier to aftermarket forged rods.

Stick to 19row x 235mm. Any larger is overkill. No need for themostatic valve or filter adaptor. No need to even replace any piping, just fit oil cooler in place of the small stock one and use some new 10mm High pressure oil pipe to reach from the metal oil cooler hardpipes to the slightly further away oil cooler.

No point in fitting TT injectors in an NA, unless the rest of the modifications have met the limits of the stock NA injectors. You need ECU remapped anytime you fit larger injectors so the correct injector "k value" on the chip can be changed.

Stock injectors 14/15 psi is 100% fuel duty Stock intercoolers 14/15 psi is about max efficiency Stock turbos efficiency 16/17 psi is about max efficiency Stock internals...well there are examples in the states hitting 500-600rwhp on stock internals. However most of them are fresh rebuilds and the rest are a ticking bomb. Realistically when you upgrade to larger turbos, and subsequently have to remove engine, thats the time to go for a rebuild with forged pistons. Aftermarket forged rods if your chasing big power. Stock crank is fine.

What I mean is that you need to upgrade sizes in proportion, to ensure correct brake balance. So, If you have GTR front brakes, then you want GTR Rear brakes on the back of yours, they are a straight fit.

Thanks, just had a look but that wasn't it.

What do you have on the front...or what do you intend to fit on the front ? You need to match them.

Get a lot of extensions, to make up about 1meter long, with socket on the end, and you can reach the top two bolts by standing behind the gearbox and undoing them from there.

ok, I may have imagined this, but Im sure I've seen somebody post a link on here a couple of times now to do with brake dimensions for different vehicles. I think it was something like different vehicle Disc dimensions, offsets, calipers dimensions...etc ?? I've never followed the link previously, and it might not be what Im looking for, but I cant find it now.....anyone got any ideas ?

Its not possible to visually check the discs with them fitted and condition is'nt an indicator. Its easier to check the tension rod bushes. With the car up in the air check the condition of the tension rod bushes. Severely worn tension rod bushes will be leaking, but not always the case. With the wheel off the ground, check for movement by holding the wheel firmly and trying to shake it, this will also check for play in the rest of the suspension/steering bushes. The tension rods are the lower arms that come off the lower wishbone at an angle and bolt up to the front crossmember....I cant find a picture, maybe somebody else will have one.

Seen HID equipped fogs on the zed before and I agree they dont half light up the road, great for a bit of nighttime country driving. I dont have any fogs though, so no good for me. Just HID Dipped and relocated LED sidelights.

SWB only

Yep, Some SWB's have Just rear, others have front & rear. Probably a "series" thing. All SWB's in the UK are Imports, we only got the 2+2 TT here.

You can swap to a 1 piece prop (I have, as have many others) but its done for performance reasons (Less drivetrain weight = Quicker acceleration & response, and less drivetrain power loss). Technically a 2 piece would eliminate vibrations better than a one piece, but you should'nt have any vibrations with either. Most likely cause is the Centre propshaft bearing failure. It will fail over time, with general wear and tear but it can also have its lifespan severly reduced by a worn Gearbox mount. The gearbox mount has a flawed design that allows it to sag overtime, putting the propshaft out of alignment and exurting extra stresses on the bearing. A Nismo rear gearbox mount (improved design over stock mount) would set you back about £75 and the prop bearing is around £150. A One piece prop can be had for around £250-£300, but its wise to replace the gearbox mount at same time.

Could give you some general settings that will get you close enough, but tbh every zed is different and its best to set it up properly by following a procedure as it also helps to understand how everything works : SET = The desired boost setting (as a percentage 0-100% (OFF to MAX Boost available) GAIN = Boost response/consistency. Too low will mean its slow to boost and too high will cause spiking SET GAIN = Is the lowest pressure that the greddy will wait for before building boost. You want this to be around 3psi less than the boost setting your after. First change it from Kpa to PSI according to instructions. Put the Set Boost on around 40% , and leave the GAIN at 0. Put the SET GAIN on 3psi less than your desired setting (so i you want 14psi then put it on 11psi). Take it up the road and in 3rd gear see what boost your getting. Increase the SET Boost by around 5% till you get the desired boost. Then you want to increase the gain, start at 5 and go up in 5's. You want to find the point where it starts to spike and then turn it down a little. You should'nt need to go over 20. Once your getting the correct boost with no spiking you can set the Warning a little above your desired boost setting.

They dont fit properly (you need to make the slot for the chuck-key larger) and they have no timing marks so you cant check the engine timing.

On a straight 4/6 yes, but on a V-engine its not really a concern. IMO, on the VG is for noise suppression rather than balance. You can however purchase a lightweight pulley with Harmonic balancer. Its not so much a HP gain but the throttle response and quicker revving thats the biggest benefit. Its very noticable.

Yes, they have adaptors, My point was the Calipers are larger than Stock calipers. K-sport (and their other name - D2) is a Budget brand, they cost nearly half the price of AP Racing brakes from the same supplier, the biggest market for them started on ebay, and you used to be able to get the Front brake kits for around £650 but retailers do seem to be pushing up the prices as popularity increases, about £800 now for K-sport front brake kit. Thats not saying they are'nt good brakes, they have excellent feedback and it looks like they have introduced a well sorted brake package, unlike their coilovers.

Never heard of this.....makes no sense. Probably poorly measured pattern parts !? I know that SWZ used to have a windscreen company come by on a regular basis to remove and fit screens with no issues.

I suspect they just have a "copy" of the JWT chip for 370cc and 555cc and they just burn them onto blank chips as and when needed with one of those little DIY Eprom burners. Thats what Ztech always used to do anyway.

ouch, yeh was £140 per ton a few months back. You could get around £250 for an average size scrap car. (£200 scrap + £50 cat).

No, wont have any affect. Hesitation/stubling can be the sympton of a Boost/Vacumn leak, dirty and/or misalight throttle valves, incorrect timing, bad temp sender......

Nice one Lee, bet you cant wait. Looking forward to seeing the end result, looks like a good spec.

On stock turbos