Yowser

Not sure where your selling, but I would suggest - Ebay, Autotrader, Pistonheads, Driftworks. It looks like a decent example of a UK car. I'm not sure on Price its been a while since I looked at prices and prices have always been sporadic.

In general, Z's and cars just like them have always been slow-sellers. Its a very limited market.

Its not a matt colour, but still .... and I just seen this too :

The Z was available in brown - but as a rare convertible only option. Not the same brown as the lambo but might be worth you looking into to see how it could look. It was called Brown Pearl Graphite or Cocoa bronze metallic (depending on which chart you read)

Very nice. I'll keep an eye out for it if your still around the same area.

Im not a fan of that at all.

its in the online workshop manual, im not at PC now to check but I seem to recall it being 43.4 psi (3 bar), and raises 1 psi for each psi of boost.

Interpro in Thornbury, bristol. We've been a fews times before as a Club. They are familiar with high performance Jap stuff, its where all the South West car clubs go.

This is doing the rounds on facebook currently. The guy is a complete dick.

Once the car is up to temp, It should automatically adjust to what it seems is best...ie Increasing the temp should send hotter air to the footwells. However, what it should do and what it actually does are not necessarily the same thing. This is why changing to the S2 Pod and aircon ECU is such a great upgrade.

Takes a lot of money, work and bad taste to ruin a car that badly. .....and is if that was'nt bad enough he's underselling its performance a tad too... Engine power (BHP): 170 Torque (lbs/ft): 17 Top speed (MPH): 140 Acceleration: 0 to 62 in 8.8 seconds

The problem you may encounter is the thin black trim exterior surround is quite fragile and can break when removing the screen, and I think its quite expensive to source. The other option is to replace the tailgate for same colour. Plenty of breakers out there and its only 4 bolts and a bit of wiring.

I'm glad somebody in the UK is pushing the Z tuning. Its good to see. Its Interesting to read about your experiences with the stock fuel system, the leaning out that is often seen at higher boost levels has long been perceived to be a injector duty issue and its great to see that somebody has possibly identified it as a mapping issue and overcome it. I'm completely with you in regards to Z engine strength, they have a poor reputation that is undeserved, and there is on only one UK ECU mapper I've ever recommend in the past (JD). To be clear though, there are issues with leaning out at higher boost levels with the ECU remaps that are readily available to the Z community. A lot of us push it higher than these limits, we have AFR gauges and are prepared for the outcomes, but that doesn't mean we'd recommend the same to everyone else. Have to bear in mind though that if people read on a forum that they can run 21psi...they'll go straight out and wind the thing up to 25psi and then when it all goes wrong they talk shit about how unreliable Z's are and blame those that told them it was ok. There are precautions to take, and the off-the-shelf ECU remaps readily available are not setup to cater for such extreme levels.

Those are safe levels that provide a very noticeable power gain for your typical owner without access to a Air/Fuel ratio gauge and a keen ear for detonation on a 20yr old car, using an off-the shelf recomended ECU upgrade. Owners should always ensure the car is in healthy order before undertaking any increases in boost pressure.

You spelt SHITE wrong.

If it was fitted above the steering support, behind the clocks then its the Buzzer fitted to all Z's (speedchime, dooropen, lights on...etc)

Blimey. Although a shame its not the later 3.8 , with the Wider grill and Throwing stars or M-Parallels, that what I always wanted when I had my E34 535is

If your on stock turbos, injectors and Intercoolers but have an aftermarket chip and the usual breathing mods then stick to a 14psi limit, unless your monitoring Air/Fuel ratio and have a good ear for pre-detonation. Every car will differ, you cant rely on another settings. You can get close, but you can just as easily over boost and do damage with somebody else's settings. Also, judging by a lot of the settings posted on here over the years (not necessarily in this thread, I haven't checked) a lot of people are running very poorly done setups. Far better to set it up yourself. Its simple to do and will mean you have a better understanding of how to use it : Guidelines for EBC setup I wrote a while back :

Does'nt make any difference with it comes to fitting HID's. Both use H3 fitment (for HID's)

btw, the Z32 uses a near identical multilink setup to the the Skyline GTR. (A Multilink setup could be referred to as a type of Double wishbone setup, with its dynamic benefits along with the extra benefit of improved comfort - but with added complexity, cost and usually weight.) However Nissan made alterations to some of the rear lower arm geometry to the R33 and R34, which would of had an affect on the vehicles anti-squat properties as well as potential differences to the Dynamic nature of much of its geometry. If I ever get the chance I had planned to investigate this further by plotting the new and old points in Kinematics software and comparing the results.

The Z's Achilles heel is its autobox...not its suspension setup. ;) The Stock setup is pretty good, and the biggest reason a new 350z/370z may "handle" better through the twisties is far more about the condition of the Z32's 20yr old setup than anything else. Dampers, Springs, Bushes and Alignment are WAY past their expected lifespan these days, yet so many are running on entirely original components. There are however many factors to suspension and chassis design that affect vehicle handling. Many of which are going to be fairly common knowledge - Suspension type - Double Wishbone, Multilink, McPherson, Solid axle, leaf ..etc Vehicle Weight Centre of Gravity (horizontal and vertical weight distribution) Wheelbase Track Spring rates Chassis Stiffness Unsprung Weight Tyre choice But then you have the finer technicalities of suspension geometry. Not just the usual Static Camber, Castor and Toe many will be familiar with, but more advanced parameters defined by the geometry of each suspension and steering point such as Static roll centre position, Scrub radius, KPI angle, Steering arm length, Kinematic trail, anti-dive and anti squat properties, Damping ratio and Sprung mass natural frequency which all have an affect on the dynamic properties such as Roll centre migration, Rate of Camber, castor and toe change per-G of Lateral and longitudinal acceleration and dynamics such as weight transfer to each wheel and even driver feedback. The point is that suspension design is a very complex affair, and there is no optimum setup for every scenario. Road cars in particular, even higher performance road cars are always designed with Compromises - Typically comfort, cost and the need to withstand the abuse of poor road conditions, but even finer details like the amount and sort of feedback sent back to the driver and the natural understeer/oversteer tendancies of the vehicle - the need to cater to the masses. The Z32 was praised for its handling when launched, but its fair to say that Nissan's Intent was for it to be a high performance Sports GT, while the Z33 and even more so, the Z34, were said to be Nissan's attempt and getting back to its 240z routes as a back to basics nimble sports car. The Z32 was aimed at a much higher market and its cost and more prestige feel reflected this. Despite the comparable weight and suspension setup these design influences would of led the overall suspension design goals.

Driver/passenger room identical in both as far as Im concerned. Im 6ft2" and seat will go back further than I have it. The only possible difference is curve of the roofline, but its so minimal I cant imagine that would be noticable.

its the Hydraulics hicas solenoid, which is only available on the 89-94 Twin Turbo. 94 onwards had Electronic Hicas and Non-turbos never had it. So yeh, some remove it if they decide to lock the Hicas, and some never had it.