Yowser

Yeh, literally follow the pipes from the fuel filter (near the battery) as they go over the plenum into the metail fuel rail, fuel dampner, fuel regulator and back near the fuel filter again. Check all the clamps to see if they are loose and look for splits in the pipes. There is also a small piece of fuel hose under the throttle valve assembly at the front of the plenum, which is hard to see and reach, but has two clamps on it also.

TT version is thicker but not as wide, with its feet in a different location. People do fit them, but it requires cutting and rewelding the mounts on the chassis in different place. - - - Updated - - - ..and would need the TT radiator pipes too.

That is looking pretty damn awesome. What stuff are you using ?

The Radiator for an Auto has its autobox oilcooler built into the endtanks of the radiator. The Manual version does not. In order to fit a Manual radiator to an Auto car you would need a seperate oil cooler to be plumbed in and mounted behind the front bumper, and while thats not a bad idea (since the stock oil cooler in the rad is pretty poor), it will prob end up costing you twice as much as it would if you could source an NA Auto radiator.

Its a TV. One of the early Plasma's. Worth a fair whack back in the day.,

Shocked and Saddened to hear. My condolences to his family.

I believe they are old skool Volk Racing GR-C

Found this in my collection, must be a list I compiled years ago. TT Manual 23710- 41P01 (89/07 - 89/08) 23710- 41P02 (89/08 - 89/11) 23710- 41P03 (89/11 - 90/08) 23710- 41P04 (90/08 - 92/08) 23710- 46P60 (92/08 - 93/09) 23710- 48P71 (93/09 - 94/10) 23710- 51P60 (94/10 -) TT Auto 23710- 41P11 (89/07 - 89/08) 23710- 41P12 (89/08 - 89/11) 23710- 41P13 (89/11 - 90/08) 23710- 41P14 (90/08 - 92/08) 23710- 46P65 (92/08 - 93/09) 23710- 48P76 (93/09 - 94/10) 23710- 51P65 (94/10 - 98/10) 23710- 51P66 (98/10 -) NA Manual 23710- 40P00 (89/07 - 90/08) 23710- 40P01 (90/08 - 92/08) 23710- 46P00 (92/08 - 93/09) 23710- 49P61 (93/09 - 94/06) 23710- 49P62 (94/06 - 94/10) 23710- 53P00 (94/10 - 97/01) 23710- 53P00 (97/01 - 98/10) NA Auto 23710- 40P10 (89/07 - 89/11) 23710- 40P11 (89/11 - 90/03) 23710- 40P12 (90/03 - 90/08) 23710- 40P13 (90/08 - 92/08) 23710- 46P05 (92/08 - 93/09) 23710- 49P66 (93/09 - 94/05) 23710- 49P67 (94/05 - 94/10) 23710- 53P05 (97/01 - 98/10) 23710- 53P06 (98/10)

Its the first long number on the black and silver sticker you need. For example, this is 23710-41P03 :

What was the fish question, maybe we can help :rofl:

Blimey. The NA rear conversion has got more popular lately then. I think I got my own conversion for £50 5 years ago. Sold a couple for £100 a set when it started to become more known about, but must of scrapped well over a dozen NA rear ends. TT and NA gearbox ends are the same. So you just have a one piece NA propshaft.

Done

Same CHRA but different A/R ? The JWT700B is also similar, depending on which AR you get it with.

Yes, I had to do this on my slicktop, but it was a few years ago. The wiring is very open to the elements where it is. You only need to run 1 positive wire from the Horn relay in the Fusebox, you can pull the fusebox apart to get access to the wires underneath. The horns earth on the chassis. Locate the correct relay from the Fusebox diagram, and remove it to check the which feed is positive, and tap into that wire on the underside of the fusebox.

GT28RS - They use Garrett GT2860 ball bearing cores, with altered housings. Z1 do their own version called the Z1 GT675RS. Its probably the most popular and recomended turbo option for a 600hp setup on the Z.

Larger and superior to a T28. They are often referred to as the 'Disco potato' and a popular upgrade fro T28 equipped cars.

Talking of putting the Z32 on the Map, Matt Samuel (Cowpatmatt) got a 1st place finish in his 300zx in the semi-pro class of the first round of the British Drift Championships this weekend at BDC ! :)

80kg ? The GTR is about 200kg heavier Despite that, the Stock GTR can pull 11 second quater miles, and the 2013 model has recorded high 10's, in completely stock form.

Haynes never did a manual for the Z32. The Factory service manual Redwine300 posted is the best option. You can sometimes pick up the physical version on ebay but it goes for around £70 usually.

10.75 ? Very Impressive for what looked like a street setup.

Nope, should be as I listed it. You can confirm by checking the sticker either under your centre arm-rest or on your door-shut.

For a road setup on a close to stock weight car, stick to near stock recommended pressures, +/- 2psi for your own preference/driving conditions. Typically (cold temps) : front : 32-34 psi Rear : 34-36 psi (Tyre size, make/model does not have a significant affect on recommended pressures)

We have done a few polls in the past, and it came out at something like 70% Jap, 30% UK. There were percentages for Manual, Auto , TT, NA, Targa, slicktop, convertible ..etc It probably a couple of years old now, so could do with another. EDIT: Have tried searching for it, but cant find it :(

We are talking about perception here. The general opinion seems to be that this place is really nothing more than an Internet forum, and having a url as a name certainly doesn't help this perception. Changing its name, so that Logo's read something like : The 300zx UK Owners club - http://www.300zx.co.uk - I can't imagine any real confusion there. As for costs of mechandise, its something you would change over time. Membership packs get updates as new stock is ordered, and when it comes to items like club banners the cost is not really an issue with the clubs financial situation, and no reason why existing banners cant still be used alongside new banners, they mostly just show the clubs website address. Ofcourse the club would need to do a lot more than just change its name to become better recognised as one, but the name is surely an obvious first step.

Offset is meaningless without width. For the record the stock wheels are about 40-45 offset.