Yowser

Murt is the lucky one there

I dont have it, and I cant download on my current connection (I pay for data currently). Wanted to get a screengrab for it showing the Z..without showing too much else.

Barely Legal 13 - Felony

I'll try and find it and check for you :D

There is porn with a 300zx in. Woman gets out of the car, upskirt, no knickers..etc, then follows bloke in a porsche 944 into hosue to shag him.

I believe that is AndyZ, an ex-trader here and longtime z owner and club member.

no, the info is not passed as far as I know. I've had a car Mot'd at 2 differnt stations and the items it failed on at the first mot station were completly different to what the 2nd mot station failed it on. Both Testers picked up diferent faults, and neither found the same faults. :rofl: :headvswal

yes, your well within the stock pump limits

Manual boost controllers can be prone to Boost spikes. You either have a boost leak or your in safety mode. Either way your car will be quite a bit down on power currently and will need to be fixed before turning the boost up. Here is how to do an ECU error code check : Method 1 - http://www.ttzd.com/tech/diagnostictech.html Method 2 - http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/FAQpages/ECUdiagnostics.html

yes, some dyno's do that, but that does not calculate total losses. The losses under load are much greater than under coasting. What they do is then add to that an estimated percentage figure to come up with the the total loss. Flywheel HP on a Road Dyno is always an Estimate. The only way to get a Flywheel Hp figure is to put it on an Engine Dyno.

You can an email telling you if somebody tried to PM you while its full and it tell you the name of the person

I dont mind the stock wheel, visually.......but if you've driven a Z with a smaller aftermarket wheel, and then you get back into a Z with a stock wheel if feels like your driving a bus !

yes, same pipe. The boost jets sit inline in the feed that goes to the boost solenoid. Personally I would not fit a Manual boost controller, and I would stick to Boost jets or a Electronic Boost controller. 9psi is stock Boost. I would not advise increasing the boost without a Chipped ECU. Aftermarket chipping services available for around 100pound from John Dixon, Andyp, DTA. An Afermarket chip is mapped to cater for higher boost levels. Reccomended Max limit with Induction kit, Catback exhaust and Chipped ECU is 14.5psi (1 bar boost). Any higher and the stock injectors are past their max fuel duty range. Here are some guides that should make it all clearer : ECU Swapping, Installing Boost Jets & Other Notes: http://pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.412 Boost Jets, all you ever wanted to know http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.491 Greddy Profec Boost controller Installing http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.495

Injector size has no affect.

if there is no affect with disconnecting the vacumn feed to the regulator then I would suspect a regulator issue. Jimmer is right though, its 36.3 with vacumn connected to regulator and rising to 43.3 with regulator disconnected. Each psi of boost should raise fuel pressure an equal amount under full load.

You should contact them, and see if they give you the Rear wheel figure. They tend to save result records on the PC.

Its prob not a wheel I would choose myself, as its a little dated for my taste, but its not bad looking, subtle and somewhat similar to the stock wheel. It is nicer and more in-keeping with the Z than a lot of the aftermarket wheels with chromed bits all over them. Was your old wheel really 320mm ? It didn't feel as small as that to me, and I didn't think Momo did them that small.

There are of other ways to reduce weight without replacement body panels. My Slicktop Weighs in at around 1350kg, which is about 150kg less than a stock slicktop and about 250kg less than your typical 300zx. I believe thats the lightest TT Z about, and thats without gutting the Interior, in fact other than the different seats you would never know to look at it. Could lose another 50kg but I dont want to sacrifice the looks or comfort(road noise..etc)

Software license is around 20-25 pound. http://www.blazt.biz/prices/prices.php The Lead for Datascan that Blazt sells will work on all Z's pre 95, and on all the Diagnostics software out there, except conzult. Conzult requires its own dedicated lead. IMO Datascan is a better 'Z owner' tool, and Conzult is a better 'Specialist workshop' tool. Datascan does everything important that conzult does - Error codes, display all engine paramaters, fuel/timign maps ..etc together with fault finding tools. The way it displays its gauges is more user friendly, and is the most used product for those who want all the gauges displayed as you drive. It also has built in extra's like Performance date for measureing 0-60mph..etc which uses the vehicle speed sensor for improved accuracy. Conzult has extra's such as Aircon diagnostics and autogearbox diagnostics, which Datascan is lacking. These are tools that tend to get used more my Specialist garages, rather than 300zx owners. The extra cost is worth it to Garages, but I would not say it is for owners imo.

CF bonnets are the most common replacement panel avilable - However the stock bonnet is alumiunum, and CF bonnets are not lighter ! Fibreglass nose panels, lots of designs available. Minimal weight saving Doors - Escort racing* were producing Fibreglass doors. You must have a full rollcage so you have some side impact protection. They are unable to support the stock electric windows so you have to use perspex. Tailgate - Fibreglass versions available from Escort racing* and VIS, although I have only seen for the SWB. T-tops - Escort racing* again. Wings - Abflug and Venom wings(sold by zcenter) in fibreglass. *Escort Racing are a JDM company. There are no UK suppliers. Z1motorsports did purchase a shipment of Escort racing products a while back. Not sure if they have any stock left, prices were very expensive.

There is'nt really a conversion. Dyno's meaure Wheel horsepower. Flywheel figures are just an estimate, and how that estimate was produced varies between dynos and Dyno operators. If you want a very rough guess at what your rwhp was based on the flywheel estimate they gave you then, using a 15% loss that some people like to use, then your looking at 307 rwhp. You should of been given the Rear Wheel horsepower figure. I dont think I have ever seen a dyno printout that shows Fwhp but not wheelhp.

If I remember this correctly - The pipe that the red hose is attached to at the top goes to the Tank, for vapour release. The pipe at the bottom where the red hose attached to vents to air. So your basically just routing the vapours out underneath the car rather than into that space behind bumper.

if the car was not actually hot/overheating (you checked temp gauge on dash?) and If the electric auxillery fan thats under the nose panel came on then its a temp sender fault. Clean up the connector and check it still clips firmly on. Its the larger of the two connectors on the top water rad pipe.

As for what affect its having - The car is in safety mode. Running richer fuel maps and retarded timing. Performance is way down. You can do a tempoary bypass with a 1megohm resistor...that would help narrow down where the fault it is in regards to which side of the connector is at fault (ecu loom or sensor loom/sensor) Sensor----loom---connector-(put resistor here)-connector----loom-----ECU

Company - http://www.blazt.biz/index.php