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Well I promised an update on retro fitting the cruise control into a series 4 car that the owner from new didn't choose it as an optional extra. Always had the cruise switch at the pod and then I bought the cruise stalk, these did nothing only turn on the cruise control light in the cluster, this because I had nothing else. The interior loom I migrated from the 95 LWB into my 95 SWB had all the pedal plugs, I just needed to source the pedals with the full compliment of switches on them, did that from Baz about a year ago, that's 2 switches on the brake and 2 on the clutch. Final thing, the engine bay cable actuator unit, no plug on the bay loom, so I put one in and ran its cable to the ASCD control unit in the passenger footwell. Today I marked up with the corresponding coloured tape which matched the 4 wire cable you can see, just to avoid any errors, you can see I made notes probably over a year ago with regard this project. Then soldered on. Then tidied up, I have no reason to believe that the cruise control will not work, everything is there now, just that I cannot test atm, no insurance, no map, too many speed humps, etc, sadly but the day will come.

He’s already uploaded pics people ?.

I agree with your plans Graham, about time you spent some money on it as well ?. We have talked about how bad your spoiler and diffuser is behind your back for years ?.

This was the car at Jimmer's when I was there a few weeks ago, I spent 5 whole days there working on it, basically getting it MOT ready, this was as far as I got. It is now on my drive, plenty more to do yet.

Got mine from there, exactly to my remit.

Not strange Gaz, this is all factory positions, just plug the 3 pin plug in the indicator 2 bulb loom, the only thing on the front I've done different is using halo's has my side lights. Working on my locks atm, I did the boot lock and the drivers door whilst at Jimmer's a few weeks back, migrated from the '94 into my '95, now moved onto the ignition, all these barrels I want matching to my titanium key and valet key, etc. The titanium key was discontinued in 1994 but I have one of the Aruba copied keys which now command silly money.

I was about to !! The headlights have been hanging around for years, unused, thrown about even but I do not like the fog side light position and having wanted the factory kerb lights/indicators I couldn't fix the side lights to the sides either. You may not believe it's possible but the halo's do actually look better in real life, they're staying. You can see how much I've thrown across the bulb in the below pic, so no fouling on the intercooler. These are the units I took the lenses from, I know there are different types of series 2 indicators, you'll notice these are not fully chromed, this will now live on the shelf. And here we are, kerb light on, shining more out onto the side and of course only comes on with the indicator, low beam needs to be on also. And because I have used led/cob/smd bulbs I have fast flash, so my fast flash relay is installed again, this goes above the accelerator pedal if you didn't know, I have it just tied alongside the factory relay.

Lenses off one and on the modified backs, tomorrow this job ?. And a rear shot, taken just now at dusk. Forgot to add, I have the black decal strip to go on yet under the spoiler.

I put halo's in my headlights many many years ago, Jim transferred the headlights from my old car into my new one without wiring the halos in, there was no need at this stage. Having now got the car back on my drive I can do jobs like this, half expecting the halo's not to work and having in mind that I'll be fitting standard headlights in their place, I quickly tested and they worked perfectly !!! My mind was then made up to keep the halo's and these I'll use has my side lights, so I linked them up with some new cable which you can see loose for now. I've removed the T10 side light JDM bulbs from the front fogs, I am not even going to take out the standard fog light bulbs, I know they're a bit yellow in comparison but these days I am not bothered about this kind of thing !! I have loads of sets of new HID lights but these were in when the car came over from Japan and as long as they continue to be 100% reliable, I will stick with them as the ballasts seem robustly made, the colour looks about right at 4500K somewhere methinks.

My intercoolers are massive, Jim fit some series 1 indicators to get the car through the MOT and even then had to relocate the bulb holder. Series 2 indicators are the only ones to have but do not fit much larger ic's without some modification, you can see how much they are fouling and that is without the actual bulb and holder in, adding even more depth, not a chance !! First job is get them in the oven and remove the lenses. Then slice off the kerb light bulb holder, I used my dremel type tool, then locate it next to the indicator holder. Just tack it on for now with some hot glue. If you don't want or have kerb lights, think it's a JDM thing, you may want to locate side lights to this position, so you can still proceed with this mod. Looking through the new position holder drill a pilot hole in the dead centre, I found this drill attachment worked well. You need to drill out an opening plenty large enough to fit the standard bulb and it'll end up looking like this. Put some tape over the old hole, like here. I'm going to use the cob bulbs you see in this next pic, orange for the signal and white for the kerb light, use standard filament bulbs if you prefer, both clear shown here, you may have the amber deflector, if you have removed, like I have you'll have to use an orange filament bulb. I used lots of black silicone, not just to hold the new bulb holder location but to stop any light bleed. Fit the lenses after applying some heat and job done.

5 years later I am here giving advice !!! Having migrated the working keyless system from my donor LWB 1995 car into my SWB 1995, I found that one of my four remotes worked straight off, so that's central lock and unlock the doors, pops the tailgate and the fourth button turns on the courtesy light. I wanted to program my other remotes, yes Nissan are having a laugh with the key in and out procedure in 10 secs but I must have done it because I now have 2 working fobs, so I put all the best bits together with these and here they are pictured. 1 remote I have is not genuine, cannot get anything out of this only the LED lights up and the other genuine one, does actually beep when a button is pressed but no joy linking with the car sadly, can only presume the PCB inside this is not compatible.

Try and ignore a lot on this video as this was taken many years ago and things are long gone, much more simpler and factory approach these days. However, I have kept the side markers, rather than take another video I'm being lazy and showing this, installed today and they are solid red on with the side lights and then flash when you indicate, then after a second or so come back solid red.

Don't know Si, is it that bad. Anything you don't like, blame Jim ?.

I could have bought new scuttles but I have 2 complete pairs, so on a warm day I cleaned and sprayed satin black. Cleaned the area, spraying GT85 everywhere and then carefully fit with mostly new clips. I also fit new bonnet hinge covers you may notice, these are often broken, that's if people even know about them !! I'm purchasing 2 x 21" wipers today btw.

I have the WinFactory bonnet struts but I have a chromed bonnet stay, so another task today was getting this fit. Firstly, I fit a new Nissan grommet in the hole near the coolant overflow filler, how often are these missing or just very worn and sloppy !! I then needed a way to hold it down securely, so found an engine throttle cable holder and used that, then fixed a new plastic catch. Bonnet stay holds the bonnet lower than the struts, so I have options.

Lets talk about the nose panel, there is no top seal for the bonnet to panel shut line on the later cars, just mould blanks where the holes should be and with a 6mm nut bonded on the back. I happen to have this seal so I set about fitting it, I drilled holes where Nissan did but I wasn't happy and so I made these holes more slotted or tolerant, thus allowing the seal to sit further up. Factory bolt and a factory large washer nut was used to hold it all together.

To give you some idea of the task, all this is ripped out of the white LWB donor I had and fit or wrestled with rather into the SWB. The loom on the left is all along the dash and then down the centre of the car, the right one plugs into it at the drivers fusebox and this feeds the rear of the car and into the tailgate. All this to go from a manual aircon pod to the desirable series 2 onwards digital aircon.

The keyless entry/exit system and a Toad alarm both worked in harmony on the white 95 LWB donor car, also a 2 relay 10 wire mirror closing 'system'. You can imagine the amount of wiring that was grafted onto the factory loom, was all well done though actually. Once this complete loom was removed and 'on the bench', I set to and removed everything aftermarket, soldering, bridging back up wires, and this was time well spent, start a fresh, yes I've now not got an alarm but it is something I can add at a later date if I desire.

I do have another brand new lit up facelift reverse light panel but this one is a little older and is illuminated differently, a bit brighter than the norm, almost brake light brightness. No number plate because I have only just sent the paperwork off to Swansea to register this freshly imported car and you can only register once you have a valid MOT certificate in your hand. And after mine and Jimmer's work, we got the MOT a few weeks ago. I need to put in the swage line tape I know guys.

I had Bose rear speaker covers before but they got a little tatty, I've had new ones for about 5 years on the shelf, getting round now to fitting this kind of thing.

One thing about having a LWB interior loom fit into my SWB is that I get a boot light, SWB cars do not have one, strange one I know. Just had to cut a slot in the panel and find myself a bright cob bulb. The other pic shows how bright my festoon courtesy light is and also the T10 boot light.

Keyless system is a factory optional extra on later cars, the remote locks and unlocks the doors with a little beep, there's also a button that turns on the cabin courtesy light and a button for which you press and hold for tailgate release. It's basic but I like having this kind of thing. After spending time at Jimmer's fitting it I can now confirm it is working as Nissan intended, very very pleasing. These are the remote fobs I have for the system......

Wasn't sure if I could use these WinFactory bonnet struts on the new car with the fitting of the cruise control but after a bit of a fiddle I've got them working sweet, they hold the bonnet up a little higher than the bonnet stay which is a bonus.

Fit my throttle cover and the Tokyo Auto strut brace. These actually touch each other in the centre, so I've used a piece of neoprene as a gasket.

Tokyo Auto slam panel I think they call this, just had to fiddle this to get it to fit on the 1995. I do have the nose panel rubber to go on yet, for the bonnet shut line as on the earlier series cars, another thing that was deleted on the later cars.