phutumsch

I got these door mirrors off an Infinity I think from a USA seller many years ago, think I remember I had to sand slightly on the edges to get them the exact size. They are blue as you can see, the livery being USA spec is now on the drivers side but this doesn't bother me one bit. You can see they are the heated type as well, warm up when the HRW switch is on, if you didn't know.

The last owner in Japan must have found and fit some facelift spec window switches, they plug into the earlier plugs with a sub loom of black wires, see pic where one wire had fallen out actually, of course that pin now is fixed. The window lift relay in the drivers door is not used. You can see the passenger switch differences where I have them side by side.

This was me then earlier this week fitting the front bumper, I had 3 cars but this is the only turbo one I had. Brand new under tray, I've tub after tub of factory bolts and also a very good collection of fasteners, so everything is where it should be, bumper went back very well actually.

After fitting the front bumper this week, I realised more, how exposed the horns are in the mouth, aesthetically better as well in my opinion.

There is one on ebay from the USA which I purchased and Jim fit, a little over 300GBP, no issues with it and he was happy with the quality. I believe there's that and this one in this thread, there is no other option out there.

Horn covers, another item I've had for quite a while, with the aftermarket Z1 horns I wasn't sure if they would go on but they do. These are the factory threaded holes. So I found some factory bolts and here they are fit, sure they'll offer some protection from the elements.

Happy Birthday ?.

Happy Birthday ?.

Yes that one is spare.

This chap then…..

Happy Birthday ?.

Enjoy your day fella ?.

Yes, on mine I migrated a turbo engine into the non turbo import, plus a host of other work btw, I never found it relevant but I did, to be thorough, put the engine number on the Swansea registration documents but you cannot register an import with them without obtaining a MOT certificate, any testing station can test and use the VIN, as there's yet no reg number. £55 to register an import and you've also to pay road tax, which for me I'll be immediately sorning, once I get the documents back.

You'll never get an import and have change out of 10k. 3 years ago, I bought an import from the importer for 4.5K, now this was not the selling price of that I am aware but with fees it is pretty safe to say the importer paid getting on for £4,000. We have discussed this not long ago, he tells me they have tripled in value since our deal, so that puts it at a minimum of 11K today, to him landed. FYI, it was a 1995 non turbo manual slicktop, so that's obvs a SWB, rated 3.5 but it was very very clean/straight.

Superb write up thank you. I last went to the show about 5 years ago, it is a great day out. Well done lads ?.

Very nice, well done guys. Can’t help thinking a silver one would look really well on that stand ?.

Cannot beat genuine parts fella ?.

You’ve blown side light fuse in the footwell. Middle 10amp top row ?.

All this gearstick panel, like a lot of things from my first 94 slicktop was migrated into the new 95, I lit up the mirror control as you can see in red years and years ago. It was never my intention to hook it up into the light circuit this time but after I looked at it and thought it's a simple job, the ashtray light is right there, it'll be tidy, so I did it. Glad I did actually, my all theme is red or blue btw around the cabin.

I've been fitting a Pioneer head unit which is completed, more on this for another day, this has reverse camera, Sat Nav, CarPlay, Bluetooth, everything actually. Having purchased a USB/Aux extender/socket many years ago, I realised that this will work very well in the cubby with the head unit having both sockets in its rear, giving me mainly a phone charger and an extra auxiliary jack to jack for whatever. Tried to make it as factory as possible and even put some carpet up the back ! With the leads all ready for iphone connection and if need be the auxiliary 3.5mm jack for another device. On refitting don't forget these screw covers that nobody will have ?.

Excellent news and welcome.

What a poor effort ?. Should’ve used the block paving pencil with optional suds ?.

Hi Brian ?.

The front fog light 55w H3 bulbs are a little on the yellow side, so I changed to whiter ones, 5000k if I remember correctly. The factory bulbs come with male bullet connectors and the ones you buy they are a 6.3mm spade, I don't butcher anymore and so made a short braided lead for each, adapting from spade to bullet. Loads of factory sheaths on everything, gets very warm. I also dug out matching 501 bulbs for the side lights, so I have these as well as my much loved halo lights !!

Another job today was do the diode HID light mod again, I had this on the previous car. So it involves a relay, there is a How-To on this btw on this very site. Located it here this time near the battery, again it's the waterproof type... Now if you didn't know, people will tell you to just ground the negative side of the low beam connector, this will STOP the low beam/HID turning off when you switch to high beam/flash and then when you turn off high beam/flash the HID comes back, so a lot of switching is going on but the way Nissan intended. The downside to this 'lazy' modification is when you flash during daytime when your low beam is off/not required, it will energise your HID lights briefly, now we know the HID's take a while to warm up anyway so this is a pointless exercise and is debatable whether it does the ballasts any good, not costly though these days I know. My diode mod just powers up the high beam when you flash, so leaves the HID's 'sleeping'. Still for the diode mod you still need to connect one wire at the negative side of the low beam and goes to the relay, seen below.