PhilP

That's a big wire to splice into. I think I've found one now from looking at the wiring diagrams

I'm installing 3 gauges and was intending on taking power from the clock/stereo. However these go live when the ignition is at ACC meaning if I was listening to the stereo with the engine off the gauges would be on. Not a problem you may think but as the are peak warning gauges they start alarming as I have no oil pressure. My question is - where can I simply splice into that is live only when the ignition is turned to the ON postion?

Mines been slowly dropping over the past few months. Its now dropped another £160 for December :):hyper::D

Optimate make trickle chargers designed for this purpose

see second post of: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=117007

i'll stop by Partco on monday and see what they got. Thanks Guys. On a seperate note what range of stuff do Partco sell?

I'd prefer an adhesive like Nissan used - like liquid nails but stays pliable - it may have to come off in the future

I'm replacing the polythene vapor sheet that are stick to the door beneath the door cards. Has anyone got any suggestions for a suitable adhesive similar to the black sticky stuff that Nissan used. I could use a black silicone but i don't think it will stick to the polythene too well.

I'd rather sit in the dark than watch that sh*t

I'm about to install the interior of my car. Is it reasonable to install the new shocks and springs now (just the rear so I don't have to re-remove trim later) and then install the arms, rods etc at a later date? I want to get the car back together but don't want to have to start stripping out the interior again in the near future. Is installing the new rear shocks and springs straight forward?

I never understand how they manage to show so little in a hour long programme. Today’s was basically the lambo, Michael Parkinson and the lorries!!! and that's it They seem to have the balance wrong nowadays. It used to be imaginative ways of road testing cars be it the races or challenges etc. Now its gone a little daft and over scripted with even less car stuff. Still watch is religiously though

The Jag 4.2 V8 is 300BHP. The supercharged XKR is 420BHP Not the DB9. DB9 is a 6litre V12 only. You probably drove the AM V8 Vantage.

Could be time to bypass the carbon canister?

It's the breather pipe from the carbon canister. Doesn't carry any fluid normally?

Is all of this needed to correct the geomeotry? What sort of price would that lot cost? I wasn't going to bother fitting the suspension for a while and concentrate on getting the car back on the road, however, all the interior trim is out of the car giving me access to the rear suspension nuts. It seems pointless to install the boot trim to remove it again later.

Well this was going to be my next question. I've already got the springs and shocks. What other bits do i need to buy to ensure the correct geometry? I want to do it properly.

I've got KYB shocks and Eibach springs to fit. Springs not on shocks yet. How easy or not are they to fit? Any hints/tips or am I best taking them to a pro. I do have some coil compressors stashed away somewhere.

or keep the orginal heater controls and have an alarm open/close the mirrors

Ask a local auto glass company to come and do it for you - they charge about £30.

Plastic clip connecting the barrel to the rod has probably snapped (mine did). You can replace it.

I'd be concerned that this might damage the ballasts over time though.

Take a look at this thread - plenty of info there http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=116508

UK cars have the dim-dip system that needs to be bypassed when installing HIDs.

Cut them off with a dremmel.

Both doors on drivers side - nice long wavy scratch :( Oh well worse stuff happens. On a better note the paint work on the blue 300 is a little flat and the body shop have said I can use their polisher and compounds to reviatlise the paintwork. :)