WillyEd

Have just seen they are selling a replacement harness connector - (which I _so_ need). Also, they are selling a different, and much cheaper replacement sensor as well... the connector however, leads me to think that it'll be sticking right up in the air though, when fitted. http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=24078-00001 Simon.

http://www.digitaltoast.co.uk/gallery/MiscFunnies/Central_Locking_In_Soweto

I use Kazza Lite - which is 'Kazza' but with all spyware, etc removed - works really well Used to use Audio Galaxy and Morpheous - but they've all got limitations now. Also, for software / movies and possibly a decent collection of music - eDonkey2000. What kindastuff you into? Simon.

LOL - mine neither!

I'll follow that - Proper crimbo everyone! Si n Katy

?? Hmm, something odd there, my Z probably has the nicest power delivery of and other car I've had - and thats with 500+ ponies under then bonnet. Only 'aggresive' when boost comes in full, but not much chance of getting full boost in the snow :D

My Daihatsu Sportrak is 10x more rear end happy than then Z in the snow! ?? So not sure what wrong / right there. Zed is only ever a handfull when the right foot is twitchy :D

I would be equally interested in whether or not a Z engine would benefit from just cleaning up the earth connectors at the back on the plenum instead? Over the years aluminium oxide etc builds up and resuilts in a poor earth. IMO a small improvement in power would be had from going around with a bit of wet n dry on the 3 or 4 ring connectors that all earth at the rear of the engine. Its also my opinion that those earth-kits are far too OTT - using cable that will happily carry a thousand amps is a bit over kill, when I'm sure all the injectors are max-rpm only pull a few amps. Just my 2p anyhow :)

I'd be expecting some more impressive performance figures than 0-60, 7 secs, T.S. 135mph, if I'd spent a 100K - even if it was on a lada! (For example, one of these could be employed - Mmmm)

People like this are an embarr-ass-ment to the human gene pool

Oh peas; be reasonable :) (I can't stand em either - except for in low-concentrations like spring-rolls, etc

....hmmm, the people who buy these things are the same people who wear aluminium foil on their heads to stop the NWO / aliens / the hippies next door from reading their minds :) ...who also happen to be the same people with Speed Holes fitted to their cars ;) (do a search for more info!)

get a blitz / b&b triflow - and you'll have the daddy of all exhausts!

O well - you'll have to drive it non-stop until you run out of go-go juice :D

i agree! But cannot explain why its usually 6 not 5!! too stella-ed to give any kind of meaningfull response, so going to abuse other threads then going to bed to be sick on the bird Si. xx

Getting pissed on the company is marvellous! Hic, :D Si.

Ahh man that sucks - hope you get that sorted asap! Si.

Cricky - your're one bad-ass horti-fûcking-culturatist!! that's one mean Z you've grown there!! :D lol- good work! :rofl: Si.

Bah! i doubt that will make much differnce - a full oil change usually does the trick! Si.

changing these seals is a piece of piss - unbolt the offenfing drive-shaft and use a rubber / leather mallet to knock the drive arm out of the diff. then pry the seal out with a screwdriver and replace with new one - inserting the thing into the diff is easy afterwards, and only takes a knock with the palm of the hand! job done! However, if its the prop-shaft end thats leaking you've got a lot more grief to deal with ! ref the online manual! Simon,

Right explanation as follows: The cooler water from the rad enters the block on cylinder 1 and 2 first - and flows to cylinder 5/6 - steadily getting hotter all the time, so cylinder 5/6 is always slightly hotter than no. 1/2. (In theory, 5/6 should get to the same temperature) Not much you can do apart from changing the flow of coolant around the engine. - what you really what is coolant passing sideways through the block, from the inside to the outside, this means all cylinders get even cooling and won't suffer from det. This involves removing the block plugs, etc and is usually found of race cars where engine cooling is of an unmost priority. Easy when you know how hey! (If this all sounds like bollecks then its becuase i've been out on a works-do tonight and am very. pissed :)) Regards Mr S B Willi-hams xxx

Hi Mickey, A boost controller will indeed control the pressure to the actuators, but there's nothing a b/controller can do if the actual actuators are opening different amount at the same pressure. Regards, Simon.

What Andy said is quite true - the actuator cannot be pre-set, if its not already assembled. The adjustment of the link-arm length will determine what pressure boost is required to overcome the spring pressure inside the actuator. For example, @ 8.5psi the actuator spring is on the point of being compressed, and at 9.5 psi the actuator is in its fully extended position. In practice, you're setting the position of what the waste gate should be in at a particular pressure. On my turbos, the waste gate started to move (we're talking fractions of a .mm here) when I applied 16psi of pressure to the actuator. And, as per your previous post, they are tightly clamped shut when at 0psi (i.e. open atmosphere).... and when I disconnected the link arm, it retracted back into the actuator about another 5 or 6 mm HTH helps m8 - pity you're not so far away!!

Hi Chris, You'll require a compressed air source, some vacuum tube, a T-piece, and an accurate boost gauge. Set each actuator, one at a time, so that they being to open at exactly the same pressure (whatever that might be - 15 / 16 / 20psi??) and the jobs done. Nothing complicated, just important that they're balanced. HTH Si.

OMG - does that mean he's forced to do some work now??