vodkashots

Come on, at least translate it for us lol

like the wings on this zed. [ATTACH=CONFIG]66723[/ATTACH] Bet it was awesome out there, though i would of taken more photos lol

Jesus he must have purchased a shed for it to have twisted bits including streering rack?

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aww thanks bud, thought i was talking to my self for most of it lol, well ordered a remote shutter release from amazon, not going to hold out much hope for it though as it only cost £2.50 but worth a shot at that silly price lol Then its just a case of fiddling with the camera settings until i get the one that does good light vs epic picture lol

Well with my modifed camera mount, the only thing letting it down now, is me shaking the bloody telescope when taking the picture, next up remote IR shutter release. then i can set the camera to manual mode, and leave it alone and not have to worry about camera shake, see if we can get some decent hi res images but for now, this is a trial run.

Just waiting for the moon to come out from behind a tree, but finally managed to fabricate a mount for the telescope using a x2 barlow lens, see what photos of the moon i can get this time

Im getting the same on the black one, but its a loom issue always drops cylinder 4 at the moment, very random when it does it, but i know exactly what the cause is, as the engine loom is so old, there is a break in the cable somewhere, ive already changed the plug, but its further along than where i thought it was, it comes back once the wire is wiggled. yours could be the same issue could be the loom, take the connector off the injector and give the pins a bloody good clean, might be bunged up with 20 years of crap, the intermittent would point to either a connection issue or cable issue. I had the same issue with the car, but thought id sorted that out :(

the OEM water pump has a channel for the sealant, also need to go between the bolt holes inner pump section, the other thing is, to use enough to seal, but not enough to break free and end up clogging the thermostat / radiator. are you sure the water pump is leaking and not the two rubber couplers either side of the top pipe? Most of the water pumps ive changed have been sealed using a orange sealent.

no problem matey, glad you got it all plumbed in, might need to borrow your ramps when i come to change mine from the HKS EVC1 to the greddy profec B spec 2 as need to get to them waist gates as well lol

the thing is, footballers play on it to make the decision go their way its a tactics thing, its not to do with being "fairies" trust me there are some serious incidents in football, one of the reason's refs are so against studs showing on slide tackles. im not going to sort the image out so its fully viewable, but if you are the squeamish type i suggest you DO NOT click on the link below. http://0-media-cdn.foolz.us/ffuuka/board/sp/image/1342/46/1342464801990.jpg Or this one. http://dalje.com/slike/slike_3/r2/g2008/m02/x66164574833873725_4.jpg Its annoying that footballers do "exaggerate" but i understand the reasons why, if they can get a free kick out of it, thats the whole point. At least our footballers don't wear padding and helmets like in the US.

Check all major pipe couplings for the throttle bodies / intercoolers / turbos, check to see if there are any splits, also on the turbo to intercooler pipes, you have vacuum pipes, might be a good idea to have a nose and check them as well, though ideally you need to make a boost leak checker, someone was making them at some point (check Ebay) basically you remove the maf, using a Air Compressor and a smoke match, you attach your checker to where the MAF goes, light the match first though lol, then pressurise the system to around 18psi and watch for smoke from the match. should help track down any issues, other wise its a case of going over everything by hand. The other thing it could be is the recirc valves if you still have them, could be that the diaphragm has finally given up on one and when hitting boost its just recirculating the boost pressure back into the system

thanks, i was surprised the camera picked the moons up so well considering how bright Jupiter is. Think i can fabricate a DSLR mount so i can get some decent long exposure time's while having the camera stable enough to avoid camera shake. really want to get a photo of the galaxy Andromeda via the telescope as that should come out really good. The other one i want to get a photo of is the nebular in Orion's belt, but ill have to wait till late November early December for that as Orion doesnt rise early enough just yet.

Well if anyone has been about at stupid o'clock in the morning and wondered what that bright star is in the sky, its actually Jupiter, so tonight thought id have a look, well this is the best i could do with the iphone, really need to sort out this camera mount and dig out my filters as she really is bright, but anyway, this is Jupiter and her 4 largest moons Io, Europa, Ganymede, and Callisto

hate to say it, but this is why the iphone is really that good, as its so bloody simple to use, yet so powerful in the process.

Bird wouldn't worry about it too much if everything else works and thats just there, forget about it. One thing ive learnt about the z32 is nissan liked to use generic wiring looms, or throw odd balls in, remove the passenger seat on some zeds and they have the electrics plumbed in for the electric passenger seat yet have a manual seat installed, take others out and its not there? Think ive got the same plug to be honest, ive just tucked it away and forgotten about it as it doesnt have anything to plug into and everything works in my car. Though id have to tackle that mess of wires lol

Just do what i did, start at one item, and remove it from the car, use stickers around each wire to mark if its a Live or a Earth / 12v switch, do all of them until the complete area is clear of nothing but OEM looms. Then refit everything nice and tidy using cable ties, grouping wires for what they are and what they go to, run lives one side, earths the other, earth all items that are in the same area to the same earth point (there is one located behind the stereo), use the correct connectors to join wires together and then electrical tape around the connectors to isolate them. That connector looks the same as cig lighter connector (upon closer inspection of the photo, thats not the ciggy lighter connector, as too many pins, though did look like it at a glance), though could well be for the power hold button, though if i remember correctly i always thought that one had a white connector on it and not black. ooh 11k posts :D

Not sure you are quite getting the £15 price limit lol Al old army surplus store, get a few of the army jumpers, smell like old socks but warm as fook, guaranteed to roast your pecks in the colder weather also hard waring, have elbow fabric and come in V neck, ticks all your requirements.

About time someone else forgot to check the damn fuse first :)

Well if you need advice on what telescope to get, just drop me a PM matey, ill quite happily talk you through it, although mines a baby and its pretty much for beginners, its not one id recommend if you want to get the best out of if, you already have the best items for viewing and getting around the night sky which is a good pair of binoc's you just need a good sky map so you know where you are looking, well depending what size they are, best beginning pair of binocs is of coarse, 10x50, going larger and you will need a good tripod but will open up more of what you can see. (the second number is the key as its the aperture) the more light gathering capabilities the better, when i finally get a house and get out of this bloody flat, ill be getting or making, between a 10" and 15" dobsonian, id recommend a minimum of 8" Newtonian, 4.5" is relatively small aperture and you encounter problems with viewing items like andromeda and even Jupiter, Jupiter through a 4.5inch mirrored Newtonian, just looks like a dot of light roughly 2mm in diameter with 2 fussy cloud bands on it, but you can make out the 4 major moons as pin points of light, but it holds no colour. its just a white disk of light with the cloud bands, andromeda is even worse and just looks like a fuzzy ball on the eye peice as if you have left a finger print on it and its out of focus while looking at it, a larger mirror would help there and show more detail as the light gathering capabilities are much better, also helps if you are out in the middle of no where with low light pollution. Biggest issue with astronomy is cash factor, the one i currently have costs £140, the one i plan on getting, its closer to £900

I know i was well surprised with the results of using such an old camera phone, though the samsung D900 always had an awesome camera on it so thought id give it a go. Biggest problem with the EOS is its ability to judge light and there for self exposure time, i switched it to manual, but to get a decent photo of the moon, you need to remove the eyepiece from the telescope and remove the lens from the camera and use it with just the shutter and there for the CMOS sensor exposed, something id rather not be doing to often as it can damage the camera. With the lens attached to the camera and the eyepiece on the scope, it has difficulty focusing on the moon and setting the correct aperture as it doesnt read the light settings from the lens, but from a sensor on the body of the camera so it thinks its pitch black and doesnt focus at all, to top it off my eyes are a bit crap at close range and i cant find my glasses, so i cant manually focus using my eyes for the camera as the pictures always come out blury if i set the focus to what i class as "chrisp" lol The adapter needs to be able to mount in the eyepiece socket on the telescope and then mount the camera with out lens to it. you can buy the correct adapter, but for what it is, they are ridiculous prices lol, though if no one can help, im sure ill have to just take the plunge and buy one.

Ive managed to get my old telescope back, not a very big one, but enough to see the planets and the moon with, but i want to progress and start some astrophotography, ive been looking at CCD camera's but i already have a DLSR and want to actually mount my Canon to the eye peice to get some awesome shots. Im a bit limited at the moment though, as just want to practice the basics on my small Newtonian before upgrading to something larger with a 8" mirror minimum and a motor mount for tracking while doing long exposures. My set up at the moment is a 114mm (4.5inch mirror) 1000mm focal length sky watcher telescope, with a EQ1 mount. pretty basic and not the best in the world, canon EOS 300D, ive mounted the camera on the telescope, but would rather be taking photos through the telescope as aposed to on it. Does anyone have a lathe that they could fabricate an adapter with? i need it to go from 1.25" tube to something i can mount the camera onto. anyway here is a picture of my baby. this was the best i could do with the DSLR of the moon, which is actually quite rubbish due to camera shake and exposure time This was achieved using a samsung D900 phone camera though the eye piece as you can see the difference is quite striking, if i had the correct mount, i could avoid the blur associated with the DSLR and also get rid of the glare associated with the phone due to using the eyepiece.

Thats ok bud, think my belts need a bloody good clean, though in all fairness i think the drivers side actually needs replacing due to some inside plastic components crumbling due to age.