vodkashots

im thinking more the Air regulator now, though not sure that would cause a wondering idle if its playing up.

ive double sided sticky taped my number plate up on the passenger side sun visor as well at the moment, the plod haven't said anything so far though i doubt it will pass an MOT like that lol

might want to check the pedal travel move the drivers seat back fully, undo the steering rack trim cover, get a torch and get under there and have a look to see if you are not getting anything caught on the pedal bud, could have a wire / tube or something getting stuck under there thats restricting the pedal travel. ive had that with my clutch pedal before and it eventually got to the point i couldnt get the car in gear, didn't realise there was a small tube that connected the AIR vents that had worked its way loose and got wedged between the pedal and its stopper. the same tube goes under the steering column

you can also get this if the cable is fraying at any point between when it enters the firewall or the length of its travel through its protective metal and plastic tubing, had this happen on one of my old cars (not a zed) and the cable eventually snapped, luckily it was out side my house and not the day before when i was doing a 500mile round trip. Considering the cable runs from the pedal through the fire wall via a grommet running inside a wired plastic covered sleeve and to the throttle bodies, its worth checking it over. Take the throttle body pipes off and check for obstructions, unplug the throttle cable from the linkage, id check the butterfly's open correctly and do not stick in their travel when manually operating the throttle linkage by hand, if they do its something to do with the throttle controls on the plenum, you can also see if its the cable with it disconnected from the throttle linkage, get someone to put their foot on the pedal while offering resistance at the engine bay side of the cable, you should feel if the cable is fraying, as there should be a notchy feeling thats transmitted through the cable on your hands, if you cant feel it being notchy but the cable then gets "snagged" id say its cable related and needs to be changed before it snaps or wedges the throttle wide open when driving.

yep, although i still would benefit from swapping my entire wiring loom over from my blue zed onto the black one as its a new one with nice fresh connectors, i also did the timing as i swapped my polished CAS unit over, ECU temp sensor also has a new plug and sensor, the idle was fine after setting all that, it was once the TP setting was changed that it started, ive even tried setting it back to where it was, but no joy. I do how ever think i need to adjust the idle again as when i unplug the AAC the car doesnt idle at all and just stalls out but this is a new development since changing the IACV over

Updated with a video with sound.

cant be blue / red as its a white dial. ive wired the switch live to the ignition switch live that the Turbotimer is plumbed into. ive left the orange for now until i find what to wire that too. think i got my water temp working, well it started lifting off the pin lol Unless who ever plumbed them in got the temp senders around the wrong way, IE the temp sender for the oil is on the water and the water one is on the oil, other wise everything is wired in correctly and a lot more neater.

how odd, 2 of your wheels are backwards on one side of the car?

trying to sort out the mess that is my A pillar gauges tonight, thought id tidy up all the wiring and figure out why my water temp and oil temp are non working, anyway, found the ground to both the water and the oil temp where not connected properly as someone used those stupid blue clip things with the bit of metal in that is supposed to splice into the wire and make a bridge. Well anyway, first question, what is the Orange wire for on the back of Autogauges? as this doesnt seem to be connected to anything and all the ends are just taped up? Also is there a switched live on the Pods somewhere? or shall i just splice into the clock connector as my clock isn't even working anyway lol

You go for it mate, its all banter on here so dont take offence, we have the stance that its your car do what you want to it to make YOU happy not others, just ask Baz with his ironing board :lol:

it needs lowering with that front end on, certainly different thats for sure, though it does beg the question, if you have gone to that extent to modify the interior just interesting to know what you need another one for? what made you paper the interior with silver surfer comics though?

Right this is now starting to Pee me off, at JAE car was idling smooth as day, jaikai got the old consults out and found my TPS was set at 0.38, anyway groover got on and changed the TPS to 0.44 and went to set the idle, at this point it looked as though my IACV was faulty as it wasnt changing something (cant remember what now) when it was being set. anyway, finally got it to play ball / do something it was supposed to and the idle was set, but as we were running out of day light, we gave up with the now hunting idle. So today i thought id tackle the issue and swap the IACV over from the blue zed, well all was fine for around 10mins, then it started doing it again so now im at a loss. 3YYpgxcCkbQ Video shows it from cold, it gets progressively worse over time until its bouncing from 500rpm to 1.5k rpm, would a stuck Air regulator cause this? EGR has been deleted, no boost leaks / vac leaks, new ECU temp senor + plug, changed the Idle air control valve, checked the TPS tonight (set at 0.44v) O2 sensors are unplugged as one failed.

agree with above, daz if you want to test it mate, ill PM you my paypal lol

noisy lifter? i have a very annoying noisy tappet, it goes after a while but can come back even when the engine is warmed up and the oil flowing about. but does go again on its own accord.

So who's got a 4s for sale then lol

well, been trying to figure away of doing my front plate so its actually visible so i dont get the old plod pull me and yet can hide it at shows. was thinking of getting this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Harley-Flipper-plate-flip-retractable-license-trick-/260845682784?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cbb9d4060 yes its for a harley but im pretty sure i can make it work on my zed and flip it back and up rather than forward and down as in the video Unless there is someone on the forum who can fab me one?

im liking that a lot mate, looks awesome.

wouldnt worry about the name of the paint, not all are named the same, but its the colour code that is the key. AH3 is what you need, ignore the name unless once they have finished mixing it, it turns out black or green lol Dont bother with halfords lacquer / clear coat, get on ebay and do a search for 2k lacquer. thats the one you need. Sand down the area to be sprayed, mask off surrounding are that you do not want spraying, hold the can 2 to 3 inches away from the area to be sprayed, and going from right to left, start spraying before you get to the area, and stop spraying once you have past it, do 2 to 3 side ways swipes with the spray and leave to dry, once dry apply again you want minimum of 4 coats in that area. leave to dry between 30mins to 1 hour between coats depending on ambient temp and where you are doing it. Once the last coat is applied, wait 24 hours, and then spray your lacquer on exactly the same way you did the paint, again 4 coats minimum, leaving time in between to dry, once dry with 2k lacquer you really need some heat on it for around 24 hours, so best done in a garage with heater or a bloody hot day, 2k needs to cure before you can polish it if you do it right, you can get some damn good results with spray cans from halfords i did this 99 spec front bumper with halfords AH3 paint, this is my old cherry red zed before my blue one, before the black one before the other one. and the colour match

there is a block drain behind the A/C compressor on the engine, you would be better off trying to get something on that to empty the engine rather than removing the lower water pipe, as that will leak coolant over your crank pulley flush the system, just remember to flush the heater matrix as well as that will also contain coolant

the difference is though mate, i like to leave her royal highness in a state of wobbly legs before i get stuck in. helps when you finish quick :lol:

Note to self, dont put tent up with in 20 feet of either nicci or Mikey when at next JAE. Really want to get some sleep instead of laughing my ass off when Mikey finished before hes even got his trousers off.

ok, what the F have i just walked in on :blink:

well if you get one mark, let me know how it goes and might just get one for my self, be interesting to know if i have forged internals or not

ive got a full tweed interior doing bugger all, well except the seats that are leather lol

halfords professional range, ive got the ratchet spanners, best tools ive ever purchased for the 300zx, and would happily buy more, ive put them under some harsh punishment as well with the old 20 year old bolts and they haven't failed me yet.