vodkashots

I'd say first thing to get checked is the tracking, if that's all fine get you camber cheched

Liftin the engine isn't going to releave pressure on the gearbox bolts as the only bolts holding the engine are the two engine mount bolts and the gear box bolts, soon as you start lifting the engine you acctully putting more pressure on the Gear box bolts, to get to the 2 bolts at the top of the gear box, just use 2 3" extentions an a 10" extentions bar and a 10" breaker bar, and come in from the prop shaft end of the gear box you will see the bolts, I found them the easiest to do. Hardest bolt was the one closest to the oil filter and ended up removing the oil filter bracket to get to it. Hope that helps

If your removing the engine leave it on, once it's removed you will have plenty of room to get to the manafold bolts

sounds like someone didn't get laid last night hehehe:lol:

Lol I know what you mean there, used my iPhone to send baz a pm and instead if it typing "thing" it managed to spell "thong" for me and I didn't notice lol good type up though thank you

I know pab, I didn't even push it as it was your car, I just wish I could take mine for a good run to see if it's justbwater in the exhaust to be honest rather than turbo seals lol baz, was good to put the two zeds together like that, wouldn't mind doing a run with a few zeds to a nice location and getting some good artistic shots to be honest

Seriously baz, we were standing there trying to decide on how to park them to get some good shots and grinning from ear to ear lol Hmm just noticed I still have my passenger side wing mirror folded and my doors not shut...bugger!

What a awesome day. had a little bit of a nightmare and a few heart attacks along the way lol, but was a very good day. Even managed to figure out why all of a sudden one of the coil packs stopped working. (for anyone who thinks they have a coil pack problem, check and make sure to reseat the rubber bung on the Wiring harness loom Coilpack connection socket, or you do not get a good contact, thus stopping your coil pack working) Anyway, was checking the injector connectors on Pablio's car, and they were all lovely and green, so started cleaning them up, got 3 done and started the engine, did the old screw driver on the top and listen trick, noticed that number 3 of his injectors wasn't firing right, the clicking was there but very faint. so whooped off the connector. gave it a good old clean up. but it back on, Happy days. loads of lovely little clickings. while pablito changed over his rear center panel @ JeffTT When pablito had the car up at Zed world, did you by pass the Det sensor? as when i disconnected the Det sensor lead there was a resistor in there bridging the wiring harness pins? and what effect would if have if its bridged and also plugged in? as that's what it seemed like. not sure who did it. Anyway, as we had both Zeds there and it was a nice day, thought we would get some photos done, so here they are (we were giggling like school kids taking these lol) Also, as pablito was there, decided to show him the smoke from my exhaust. I almost soaked his legs when i revved it. the water from my back boxes shot out that far, (almost 3 foot) he mentioned it. so i took a little video, watch both tail pipes when i rev it. please bear in at this point there engine wasn't even up to temp. this doesn't really show how bad it really is with the water. as pab described it "looks like someone just turned on a tap mate?" Id also like to say a VERY BIG thank you to Pab, for letting me take his car out for a spin. OMG cant wait to get mine on the road. his pulls like a beasty.

Check the service manual, as it explains in there how to check them JUST HERE Hope that helps

Hi gib mate, looking at following the service manual for turbo removal. just wondering how much room I'm going to have to play with to get to the bolts closest to the engine, I don't mind taking the engine out to do it, but don't mind the challange of doing it with engine in, not only that will be nice to learn how to do it with out removing it. If all else fails I'll just pull the engine anyway lol

Gibster, can i ask you to take loads of close up photos of how your turbo attaches to the car please. and PM me them. Would be much appreciated.

I picked twin exit for sound and looks. the car came with twin exits. let it have twin exits. they look a lot better. and considering its not a MOD like most people like to do to their straight 4's, we have a reason to have twin pipes and should embrace it. Not only that it keeps the car symmetrical and looking a lot better imo. Oooh and the sound is nice too.

chevy day van tbh :D

ooh i like them. I'm really struggling to find room to put a 42" JVC plasma screen, knew i should of gone for the chevy dayvan lol But on a serious note. top of cluster shroud, in a fish eye look, pillar down drivers side door. then the 3 clusters just above the radio shroud. That's 8 gauges. cant see you needing more than that to be honest

Is it me, or is there a lot of people out there that seem to do a bodge job on these cars recently?

Night bud. I think if the metal is of good construction, i cant see there being a problem, go out to a empty carpark, and do some hard braking, see if they warp or snap, make sure you have a goooooood looooooong distance in front of you when you brake

now that's what I'm talking about :D Al, you should see if your aero buddies can make a safe caliper bracket, I'm sure you would make a nice profit on the side doing that. especially if people know they are getting good quality items that have and can be tested.

Why on earth do you want to go and put some German porsche calipers on your car, you should give them too me, ill make a nice toast holder out of them for you :innocent:

Unless you know someone who can test the tensile strength of the metal, there really is no way of telling how well they are made. you might find the weld is the strongest part, but then you might find that they will break or snap the moment any serious use is applied. To say they look fine isn't really a cause for reassurance, after all everyone said the titanic looked fine and look what happened to that lol Only true way is to get the metal tested, but then you will be down one bracket as they will test it to destruction, to see what the stress threshold is.

woo, bargain.....

now all you need to do is drop it a bit, looks good though

wouldn't like to drive that. if that tyre lip slips off the rim on the inside, hes going to be losing control. i wouldn't want to be anywhere near that when that happens.

lmfao

Agreed, If you change the styling back to almost a stock looking car, i bet that would sell in a instant.

Then its decision time as to what one you keep, i take it you were hoping more people said silver was better lol Personally, the styling is ok if that's your thing, but the biggest problem with styling a car then trying to sell it, is that its a personal thing with the styling and you limit your market. With a stock car (yellow one for instance, ignoring the high spoiler) its pretty much stock as far as looks go. so it will be easier to sell. If Silver's engine is better than your one, swap the engines over, then sell silver. only problem you will have then is the fact that its going to be limited to a few people who like the styling of silver.