vodkashots

Both JDM and UK are the same shape matey, ive been trying to see if i can find the boost face plate as i have one already off the car. give me a sec.

Few checks you can do. First of all, check the coolant in the rad, make sure there is no mayo type substance in there, also remove the oil filler cap and check that also. check the dip stick is still in its little tube and secured in there. next up Start the car and take it for a pleasant drive, no boosting or anything, just get the temp up to normal. get back home and get out the car, let it idle for around 5 mins, then check the exhaust for smoke, if its smoking then make a note of the color, if its turbo seals it will have a blue ting too it and be heavy ish. if no smoke, give it a rev to around 4 to 5 k revs. and then ease off. again checking for smoke, if it smokes on revs, and the smoke is blackish and sooty, then its over fueling, if its condensation it will be white but dissipates quickly, if its turbo seals, it will have a blue ting too it and be quite heavy. Pay attention to the car temp, if you have a after market temp gauge installed, this will be better, but if its the stock one, normal temp the needle will sit around half way up. Does the engine idle smoothly, any juddering or anything like that? it should idle with minimal body vibration. Tell tale signs of turbo seal failure are. Smoking in idle after 5 mins of idle when engine is up to temp. Remove intake pipes to throttle bodies and check for oil on the intake pipes, heavy oil means you have oil vapor getting into the intake system, usual suspects are the turbo seals. Smoking on boost. Other causes of car smoking Too much oil, the oil needs to be around 3/4 up the dipstick check block. too much oil can actually cause the car to smoke. knackered PCV valves, the PCV valves, knackered valves can lead to oil vapor built up in the upper plenum, this then condenses in the plenum and can form pools of oil, under hard acceleration, this can get thrown down number 5 and 6 cylinders from the valves and burn under ignition. Bad piston rings, take it for a drive, bring the car up to temp, give it some good boost, pull over and check to see if the dipstick is still in the tube, if it had popped out, then most likely the piston rings are knackered and not sealing correctly and you are getting positive crank case pressure, you can also check by opening the oil filler cap (turn car off then do this) and seeing if there is any vapor coming out and if it smells like petrol. to confirm, you need to do a compression test and check the compression of each cylinder. HG blown, usually accompanied by poor running engine, very lumpy idle and lots of white smoke out of the rear, can also be accompanied by mayo type looking substance in not only the oil, but also in the rad, or even a film of mayo on the exhaust exits, you can get a block tester kit to test this and do a leak down test. To be honest though, the biggest cause of smoking from the rear is turbo oil seals, which is an engine out job (it can be done with engine in, but much easier to just pull the engine)

is this the AMG matey? sorry to hear that. bloody things.

WOOOHOOOO, well just been down and quickly (only took me 45 mins) plumbed in the injectors to the TC ECU, started the car (found out where my wandering idle is coming from, got that back once the RL was installed again, but anyway that's another story) plumbed in the rev pick up, didn't have to worry about the ABS as that was already installed anyway, i only changed engine harness. Started the car, flipped the switch from 20% to off then straight back to 20% again, nailed the throttle and the car only gets to 4.5k revs and misfires in that range. it wont let me rev higher, turning the TC off for a short while (only around 3 seconds) and back on again, i can rev across the whole range. Anyway, at least i know it most certainly does do launch control, going to get me a button lol. also need it hooked up to a laptop so i can sort out a few perimeters, i have bigger wheels on since it was installed, so no doubt its still set up for use with the 17's that came on the car instead of the current 19's. Well happy.

No way, had i not searched for Racelogic TRACTION control launch button, it would have given me that image. but as i added that one word, it completely ignored it lol

Spot on matey, got they are cheeky buggers lol, i was right, all i had to do with stick a momentary switch onto those to contacts. now just need to plumb the unit back in and get it sorted. thank you very much. what did you search in google to find that? i used all sorts and never came across that one.

Tony if you want to set up a group buy, im sure a new thread would be better as most people who do not have a Racelogic traction control have most likely not bothered reading this thread again now they know what its about. as for the button issue. ive found the same button used on ebay. so might just grab one and solder it in place, the ECU looks for a +5v spike on the green wire to activate Launch control, so with the button wired into those two tracks, its going to send a spike down the green wire when the button is pressed. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Momentary-Push-Button-Horn-Switch-OFF-ON-Car-Dashboard-/261161661277?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&var=560180802441&hash=item3cce72b35d

Its whats called a momentary switch, its only ON when pressed, soon as you take your finger off the button, the switch is then OFF. Well mark, what i dont want to do is pass a +12v current down it. so i suppose ill have to dig my volt meter out and see what voltage is coming from that red wire. (edit, nvm just reading that thread, red is indeed +5v)

Id love the digital traction controller, but £180 just for the controller, easier if you are buying the complete unit though.

already done that matey, there are 2 solder points on the circuit board. As you can see from the photo, the red wire (live) and the green wire (signal) can be bridged, if i solder a momentary switch in, pressing the switch will effectively send a higher volts signal down the green wire. what i need to know though, is there anything special about the button used, or is it just a generic momentary switch with two wires coming from it and soldered onto those two solder points? What i dont want to do, is just put a generic momentary switch in place, then fry my TC ecu when i press that button and send too high a voltage down it lol Im pretty sure its just a generic momentary switch solder on to those to points, but considering how expensive the ECU is, id rather air on the side of caution.

the first ever book i read all the way through was the rats, it got me hooked on reading James Herbert. i ended up reading all 3 books, rats, lair and domain. Also loved James Herbert "the dark" much better than Steven king.

hmm. right, so turn the rotary dial to off, then to on, is basically the same as pressing the switch. So if we go by the pictures. Box with out button and box with button Well as the box with out (mine) has red green and blue wires, and the box with, has Red green and blue wires, so hence no other wires, i can only assume that its just a momentary button, that stops the power from the control unit to the racelogic ECU for a split second and lets the ECU know, its now in launch mode.

Not an option as its currently unplugged not plumbed into the car, having recently changed my engine bay wiring loom. haven't had the weather to be sat cutting up my injector wires from the ECU to reinstall it. Also, just want to know if i can actually fit a button, rather than turning it "on" then "off" each time, the box might also be made up differently to accommodate the button, the software however, does have the launch control already on it, confirmed by racelogic. I was hoping to find out before i re plumb it all in, as that way i wont have to disturb it all again. if i can indeed just "add" a button and a few wires.

They will tell you how to make a shift light out of it, as you can use the original LED that it comes with, no real modify at all, im on about adding a button that controls launch control that costs £65 to buy from them. trust me they are not going to tell me how to modify it. They say it cant be done, but there is a webpost on a scooby site that says he did it, what he doesn't say, and what no one asked, is how he did it. Now i would join to ask, but the post is old and i doubt the guy is still on the forum, considering he hasn't logged in since 2006 lol, all i need is for someone with that button on their analog launch control to unscrew the 4 Philips head screws off the back off it, and tell me if its just a bog standard button, or if there is some magic in there that needs something more than just wiring in 2 wires and a button. Or even better, open the back and take a photo.

they are not going to tell me how to modify their own product lol, they just want me to purchase a new control unit for it. i know because i have already asked.

Does anyone have a Racelogic traction control system installed with the analog control box with the launch button on it? if so can i ask a big favor, is there any chance you can take the back off the control box and see what the rear of the button is like, i want to add the launch button to mine, which if im correct is just a momentary switch. I know i can get the analog control box with the button already on for £65 from racelogic, which would make it a plug and play affair, but if its just a button i need, then i see no point in spending out that much, just for a button. would also need the pin it connects too on the racelogic ECU. This is the same control box i have. This is the control box with the launch button on it. Just need to know if there is anything special about the button being used and what pins on the racelogic ecu it needs to connect too to make it work. i know the software is the same, as it is a plug and play affair, i just cant see the point in spending £65 if its just a button i need.

Or if you want to go single turbo with bonnet bulge and side exit exhaust.

Heres one i made earlier.......

cant believe the sub 500bhp guesses, im not running close to those turbos and im getting 424.6bhp, also have a dyno showing that it pushed 457bhp at one point, i got 555 injectors, but have GT525 turbos. With those engine internals, plus turbos, with a good map, there is no doubt he should be looking around the 550bhp mark.

wasnt on mine, i checked all that when i got the car at Richards house. it was doing it with me from when i brought the car, that was also when i checked the bulbs. but worth checking anyway.

Nope, mine just sailed through, not even an advisory.

had the same issue, all bulbs working, but when you put your foot on the brake pedal, light lit on dash. easiest solution? take the damn warning bulb out.

well thought id be a helpful chappy, and provide my problem flow chart for the 300zx, found it quite useful to be honest. anyway, here you go.

Did you find anything out matey?