Medallion Man

this any good? http://www.gizzmoelectronics.com/pdf/IBC%20Instruction.pdf

Yeah, as scubanesh says, re-location is a strange question... as you can't change where they come from. So maybe modification of the outlet is better way of describing it. Jeff has done a number of posts on the front ones and there is also at least one thread on changing the outlet for the back ones. The problem with the front ones is that it isn't one continuous hose from the top drain hole to the outside of the car. The hose plugs into a rubber grommet/spout that goes though the body and drains inside the front guard. The hose can come out (shrink) of the sleeve and direct water into the foot well (all over the electrics on both sides). so the option is to extend the shrunk hose (easiest & cheapest option) or replace that bit or replace the whole lot and continue the single piece all the way. Take care if you're going to feed a whole new pipe thought as its quire difficult to get it though the right hole, so best to attach the new hose to the old one and push it though the opening in the dash. Also take care not to pinch the new hose (and stop water draining). By the way the driver side is the most difficult (or should I say nightmare). The rear ones just need extending or replacing with longer hoses (as as said above drilling a hole for the hose to come out though. I think this is what you'll need (choose your own length) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10mm-Clear-Plastic-Flexible-PVC-Hose-Tube-Aquarium-Pond-Washer-Fuel-Air-/251021772943?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a7210488f#ht_2394wt_1163 and something like this might help with corners http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/White-Plastic-Nylon-Elbow-Cars-Marine-Agri-Motorbike-fuel-water-air-/271027617342?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item3f1a813e3e#ht_500wt_923 (but that kind of defeats the getting a single unbroken hose) hope that's what you wanted to know...

Hi, Zedworld is the ONLY Zed specialist in the country!!!! At the same time, they have heaps of bits for Zed's and you pick up anything you're car is missing. 2 hours isn't really much for piece of mind. Worst case scenario, get them to find the issue and what needs to be done to fix it and then get that done later at a more local garage. there are probably other garages out there that can work on them and may do a good job but it really depends on the problems you have. If they have to replace parts no other garage will stock them and they will either order new from Nissan (a small fortune and a couple of days wait) or replace with the wrong or sub standard component. If the problems are a bit too Zed specific then there is little chance even a good garage will work it out.

Hi, as Groover has pointed out the fuse box you need to look at is the one in the drivers foot well. also check any earths/grounds near where you've been messing with the wires.

nice work.. :)

How about some pics of the ones you've got, at least compare them to Jeff's pics........

I don't think you'd smell it form the inside as the tank is is outside the cabin and so are the fuel lines.. the lines are hard pipes and yes could corrode or be damaged. there is a protective cover over them (under the car).

Ah, that would explain it... not finished yet, still got the final step to go... taking it to the scrappies !!!!

lol... Moobs !!! why do they always get in the way.... NNnnnnnooooooooo.... :) good luck..

sounds like a plan, and as far as I know, yes it could be an O ring, but I hope you've eliminated all other possibilities before having to do that job.

So have you checked under the car? and it's easy to get to the pump, in the spare wheel well. if it's some of the pipes off the pump I think it's a little more difficult.

have you checked the ecu temp sensor? not that I'm saying its the total problem but could be related. I know if its not working that it will cause overfueling because it things the cars is still cold.

yeah, like above, first check is the fuel lines down in beside the throttle bodies (for the injectors), also the ones to and from the fuel regulators and the fuel filter ones. I replaced all mine (like many others on here) and also used better clips and hose (the little bolt clips and the braided hose). these are the most common place for leaks. Also when at boost (& high revs) I think the pump works harder.

A philosophy professor stands in front of his class and fills a mayonnaise jar with rocks that are about 2" in diameter. The professor asks the class if the jar is full…they agree that it is. The professor then takes a handful of pebbles and adds them to the jar, shaking it so the pebbles fill the cracks and asks if the jar is now full and again the class agrees. The professor produces a small bag of sand and proceeds to add it to the jar, shaking it so it fill the cracks and asks the class if the jar is full and for the third time they agreed it is. "Now"… the professor says…"I want you to use this jar full of sediment as a way of looking at your life… the rocks represent the things that are most important to you, your family, your partner and your health…things that are the cornerstone of your life." "The pebbles represent things like your money, your job or your dwelling, things that are important, but can be replaced." "The sand represents the small things in your life, for instance, what you wear, who you are seen with or where you eat." "You’ll find, if you put the sand in the jar first, you won’t have enough room for not only the pebbles, but most importantly the rocks." "The same thing goes for your life, if you spend too much time and energy on the small issues, you focus less on the things that really matter." "Pay attention to the things that are critical to your happiness, play with your children, take your spouse out on a date and find time for that medical checkup, in essences, set your priorities… you must take care of the rocks first, then let the pebbles and sand fill your jar." As the professor finishes, he receives a standing ovation for his presentation….. but through the crowd, comes a pupil from the back of the room wearing a backpack. He goes to front of the class, the student says to the professor…"so you say the jar is now full" The stunned professor could only watch as the student takes a bottle of beer out of the backpack, opens it and pours it into the professor’s jar. "So we must conclude that no mater how full your life is…there’s always room for beer!"

Ah, careful... if i remember correctly "ONLY" the full version can clear codes.... the free version (available on eBay) can't. to clear codes disconnect the battery for about 30 min (don't think you need that long but just to be sure). and don't be surprised if conzult doesn't shed any light on the problem (particularly the free version). Good preventative and regular maintenance are a must to keep these cars running a optimum. so, checking & cleaning (if required) all the connectors regularly, vac/boot leak checks, air, oil & fuel filter and oil change, the right type of plugs and a good coolant are a must. checking timing (with a light, not with conzult) and TPS checks are also a good thing to keep an eye on. check temp sender unit and fuel temp sender unit. (all check are available in the Service manual and you can find a lot in the FAQ) Once a few little things start to go off there will be a noticeable difference in performance. Oh, and if the DET sensor is causing issues i.e. due to detonation, it might be because you have a problem with that and not the sensor.

I think someone may have something like that setup but I'm not positive.... hopefully somebody will come along shortly and give some advise.

300zx is not ODB .......... it's Nissan's "consult" OBD http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=obd1+connector&_sacat=0&_odkw=obd+connector&_osacat=0 Consult http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=consult&_sacat=0&_odkw=obd1+connector&_osacat=0 does yours have the 8 bit processor and are you looking to upgrade to the new version with the 16 bit? if so it's my understanding that you are better off with the 8 bit one as it's easier to modify. But yes I think there are also piggyback and upgraded ECU's out there but why would you bother unless you wanted massive power. You can get heaps for just a chipped standard ecu.

Hi, not that I'm saying that it's the same as your problem........... but it sort of answers the question you asked... to say that it is possible..... I had a strange intermittent power loss problem, would only happen every now and them, generally during or after boosting (and not particularly heavy). The car would just lag / no power, any press of the accelerator would make it worse unless you put your foot down and the boost gauge would go right up but with little response. I would pull over ASAP and turn the car off, I noticed that the turbos where red hot... when I started it back up all was fine.... i couldn't find any loose pipes or see any issues. The only thing I hadn't done was a boost leak test.... Once I finally did what I should have done right away it was clear that there was a massive leak. It was located on the top of the turbo (outlet), the short hose had a strange 1p size and shape split/hole but there was still a flap of rubber over it. The flap would act like a valve, due to the position it was being kept in place most of the time but when the car boosted it caused enough pressure to dislodge it and throw out all the readings causing the car to run like shite.... The for some strange reason when the car got turned back off it would find its way back in place....

Yes the one on the left. It's also a good idea to do a regular check on all connectors and keep them clean, winter and all the salt on the roads is particularly hard on these old cars. MAF, CAS, TPS, PTU, DET, IAA, O2's, coils, injectors and what every else you can find and clean... Oh and use the right plugs (NGK Platinum PFR6B-11C) good luck..

Hi and welcome..... reading between the lines and just in case you post a for sale thread .......... it is the policy of this site that you must be a paid member before you can advertise or sell goods (not expensive). Trader membership is more expensive. However if you are going to break and sell it as part of your work then you may be seen as a trader. All the information you need is in a sticky in the for sale section. :) http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?157862-Buying-and-selling-guidelines

lol....

lol... G reg...so should say 1989... typo me thinks....

agreed... best to check when its cold before things heat up and expand.

Yeah, I don't think its a good idea either, however you might be able to get away with it if they are driving lights but you would have to read up on their setup and regulations. Me personally, I hate people driving around the streets with front driving or fog lights on, too glary and chav, shows lack of consideration for others just for looks... :tt2: not meant to offend, just my opinion.

lol... looks like a trip up to zedworld for you then..... :)