Medallion Man

lol.. I guess that call that the "Big Smoke"

http://vlc-media-player.en.softonic.com/

Bum.. I was looking forward to some drifting.. :)

right, so you think, turn needle to about 19, hold the shaft with some pointy nose pliers, take needle off and put back on pointing to Zero.. is that right? what about when he's doing 60 and its out by 30? or do you think that might help to stop that?

yeap.......... and a load of other things as as well... so, the first think is to make sure you do regular PM on the engine bay, electrical connectors and replaceable parts. (or clean the air filter if possible). including battery & alternator. there is a guide on adjusting the TB linkage so that its balanced and also one on cleaning the TB's. there is a guide on removal and cleaning the IAA unit as well. check plugs, tps voltage (guide) and vac/boost leaks. a common issue is fuel line leaks around the plenum, particularly at the front under the TB linkage but also at the dampers. hope that helps...

most people use 6 but I think it's 5 as well (it's in the FSM & the owners handbook) :)

I would say at least 7's, iridium for longer life but coppers for performance.. (coppers will end up costing more over the long run as they wear out a lot faster)

sounds like a plan to me... :)

let the bible be your saviour... http://z32.wikispaces.com/Factory+Service+Manual EL section has all the info you want...

I assume you put heaps of penetrating fluid (or WD40) on it?

so surely if the needle hadn't dropped enough would the speedo not show fast enough? not the other way as with his... too fast!!

yes, you can't miss it... its the top one...

Hi, check out the TechFAQ section there are posts on a few of those issues. not sure about the gearbox, might be work checking the linkage. also the speed sender on the box may be sicking out or have a broken wire (common issue) idle / running issues also common, heaps of stuff on that ... you've got a bit of reading ahead of you so best of luck... you could do with a day trip to Zedworld for a once over, they will sort out a heap of stuff on the spot.

Hi, yeah, the front panel between the lights has two bolts that hold it on... undo them... bingo... the ecu temp sender unit is the one with two connectors, the unit may be not working.. you can test the resistance as it cools down. the other one is just for the clocks in the dash... no consequence to the cars running. get your mate to have a look at the link I posted.... it will make a massive difference to him being able to fix it.. the MAF is where the air filter is... you should have changed it as part of your maintenance.

also the TechFAQ section on this forum is very good... have a look in there... this is the engine bay.. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?26120-Engine-by-numbers also check out the FSM... the bible of Zeds http://z32.wikispaces.com/Factory+Service+Manual

local mechanic.... go and get it back before he changes you heaps of money with no results.... unless he is familiar with Zed's you are wasting your time... (unless you get lucky) but most of us on here have horror stories about local mechanics. read all the stuff I gave you... and like 300 Zedx says, take the front nose panel off and check the MAF connector. best of luck... you could always take it down to Zedworld in Birmingham...

Like the other guys have said... you need to check all the electrical connectors first, for corrosion and good contact (including the battery & alternator). you can then go form there to check for ecu codes, check the plugs, coil packs, ptu, tps, cas, injectors, fuel supply.... etc.. these are handy.... Ash's 6 P's http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg...&msg_id=922678 Auto Transmission Diagnostic http://twinturbo.net/ttnettech/autodiag/autodiag.html Cleaning Electrical Connections http://www.300zxclub.com/showthread.php?t=153696 ECU Diagnostics http://www.zmods.org/index.php?page=ecu_diag FAQ http://www.300zxclub.com/forumdisplay.php?f=78 FSM http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi http://simsters.com/z32.htm Hatch Lock Repair http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/13202.html Hatch Strut Replacement Info http://300zxclub.com/showthread.php?...=mcmaster+carr Idle Tech http://home.swipnet.se/e-solutions/IdleTech.html http://home.swipnet.se/e-solutions/IdleTech2.html http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg...&msg_id=920429 http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg...&msg_id=855473 Power Balance Test http://www.300zxclub.com/showthread.php?t=179661 Spark Check http://www.300zxclub.com/showthread.php?t=168129 Test Starter/Battery/Cables Function http://www.300zxclub.com/showthread.php?t=168558 Throttle Body and IACV Maintenance http://www.300zxclub.com/showthread.php?t=59296 Troubleshoot code 21 / no spark issue http://www.300zxclub.com/showthread.php?t=169134 Vacuum Leak http://home.swipnet.se/e-solutions/Vacuumleak.html

Hi and welcome.... firstly what have you done to diagnose it? what work have you done to it? (i.e. preventative maintenance). these cars need a lot of love and attention.. your's is 21 yes old now!!!

yes, I thought so... but they aren't really any help... If it was a big leak then yes you would see smoke... but then it would also be easy to find. If its a little leak then no smoke seems to come out anyway, whether or not you pressurise..... I even tried using more than one match and smoke tablets.... so seems to be the best way is just by ear.. :(

I made some a wile back out of UPVC... but you could just as easily use wood...

LOL.. very good.. :)

yeah, agreed... facebook.... should be called farce-book. come on Bird put a photo of you up.. so at least we can agree with you. :)

yeah, spot on.. its the one that sends the temp to the clocks... thanks heaps .. :) have some rep..

:)

come on someone must know.... I can see two types on ebay.. 1.25 and 1.5 .... I want to put an after market sender in the hole but the thread is 1/8 NTU, so I need an adaptor... (and obviously need to know thread type) No I don't want to tap a new hole (don't have taps) or put a link in the hose (just another place to leak from)... and more money... the only alternative I can think of is use the top bleed hole on my ally rad... but concerned because if the level drops a tiny amount it won't be touching the coolant.