DTA (UK)

Hi Alex, Got your cheque for the rings - thanks! Still no confirmation on whether the rings have been dispatched to me yet but will be chasing this up tonight. Standard power at the wheels is a heavily debated subject with aparently no definitive answer. There are some figures floating about on this forum but there doesn't seem to be a concensus on which are the actual figures. If you upgrade the boost (either by means of a boost controler or boost jets) then it is highly recommended you upgrade the ECU by fitting a performance chip (like JWT, Mines, SE/Nistec, etc). The upgraded ECU basically ensures that there is enough fueling at higher boost levels. Basically, fuel and timing maps have been altered to allow for higher boost levels - this will prevent you from under fueling and causing detonation to occur (or worse ...) If you are after a chip then let me know - I can sort you out with a JWT (have both manual and auto chip available). You'll have to get your ECU "socketed" to allow the new chip to be fitted. This is best done by a professional as any mistake can cost you the entire ECU and they are terribly expensive to buy. Let me know if I can help. Regards,

Hi Alex, Hmmm ... I'm not going to be able to give any difinitive answers to this particular set of problems but I can shed some light on one or two involved issues. Stalling under heavy braking: This is indeed "most likely" due to clogged PCV valves. Best thing to do here is to order a complete set of 2 valves and associated hoses (I think there are 5) and replace the lot - try MJP Eastern Autos in the trader section for a good price and excellent service. You've already indicated that Nissan has "fixed" the wiring to the TPS. My suggestion is to buy a new TPS (only about £40-ish from Nissan) and fit it - making sure it is set up correctly. Other than that I can suggest you do the following: Clean the throttle bodies, then clean the idle valve at the back of the engine, reset/adjust the base idle, replace the fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pressure dampner and associated hoses (if your budget can stretch to it order Smithy's braded hoses), replace air filters (I sell the cracking A'PEXi Powerflow induction kits). After you've done each bit reset/clear the ECU by leaving the -ive terminal to the battery disconnected for an hour or so. I must sound like I'm drumming up business for all our traders but I'm not on commission or anything ... ;) If there is someone in your area with a ConZult that will also help diagnose any error codes and set up the various bits correctly (if you want a ConZult then contact me as I sell those too!) I think I have addressed most of the "simple" things you can do to try and get to the bottom of this stalling problem. Let us know how you get on. Regards,

In my younger days I worked as a car detailer in the US. Amongst the more mondain models we detailed a lot of super cars (I've worked on a (then) brand new Ferrari F40, several Porsche Turbos and the occasional early model Diablo) and we only ever used Zymol. I can not recommend this stuff highly enough and it is officially endorsed (in the US at least) by all of the top "Concour" events. Downside of the story is that Zymol products are outrageously expensive but more than worth it. All IMHO of course... Cheers!

Excellent choice Dave ... ;) ... give me a call tomorrow on 07044016586 and we can sort out the details. Looking forward to speaking with you. Regards,

Hey Dave, The whole idea behind the development of the ConZult was to make it as user friendly as possible. Yes, it comes with a comprehensive manual; Yes, it is easy to interpret the sensor feedback as it is displayed using bar graphs and data plots. If you want to talk about it give me a call on 07044016586 and I'd be happy to speak with you. Regards,

Further to AndyP's post - for those amongst us who don't know their left from right - open the bonnet, on the metal bar that spans the width of the car just behind the headlights there is a R and L stamped into the metal. Now look at your wheels and make sure that the R's or on the Right side and the L's are on the Left side. Usually (and I know this is true for Bridgestone, Toyo and Pirelli) there is an arrow and the words "direction" embossed on the tyre wall. This is the rolling direction of forward travel. Make sure it's not pointing the wrong way when you've swapped your wheels around. HTH

I put 100W bulbs in mine over a year and a half ago (did over 8k miles since) and they have not "popped" yet ... Of course having said that they will now die on me tonight ... The trick is to use the correct electrical lead with a high amperage (I used 27Amp electrical wire which is sufficient to charge a car battery) and solder it onto the bulb well. Shoddy soldering will significantly reduce the life of the bulb. Also, make sure the end of the lead makes good contact with a clean metal surface for a good earth connection. HTH

OK - fight it out between the two of you - either way I don't really mind as the total price must equate to £135 ;) Enjoy the fight! Cheers,

Ok then, have done some research and the supplier will only sell them to me in pairs, ie front and rear together. So ideally I would like to sell them as a pair but if there is a firm agreement on a split then I'd be happy with that. Since I can only get them as a pair I suggest the cost for the front & rear is split down the middle. Ie, £135 for the pair, £67.50 each for the front and rear. Postage will be added (likely to be under a tenner) as will a surcharge for Paypal payments (4%). That should bring it to "around" the £75 per brace if you pay by Paypal. My digicam has packed up and I haven't got a good pic of the braces at the moment. I will look for it on the web and post it when I have found it. Basically, if you look at the ones that F1 sells then you're getting pretty close (if memory serves me). Although I can't judge the quality of the F1's I can say that the ones I get are of very good material quality and look the biz. I will contact the supplier again to verify quantity and availability. Let me know who/how you want to proceed. Cheers!

Hi Dave, Should be no problem to bring the kiddies along - there is a nice grassy area for them to run around on when they're done gawking at all the lovely Zeds! Cheers!

Hey Berks! If the last three letters of the reg were BAM or something like that then I've seen that car a few times in Erdington and Wylde Green (with a lady driving it). Flashed my headlights at her on two separate occasions as I was going the opposite way but never got a response ... perhaps I should have flashed something else :slap: If you think two girls in a Zed is cool then I've got one better for you ... two girls in a Ferrari 360 Modena at the Super Car Rally last year (Geneva-Italy-Monte Carlo-France-Geneva) - awesome and they finished second in their class! Cheers mate!

Mine tends to fluctuate between 78C and 87C depending whether traffic is free flowing or I'm stuck in traffic. Sounds like it might be worth getting a new temp sensor ... HTH.

Steve - they are sold to me as a SET mate. Let me get back to you on that one later tonight when I'm back in the office with the actual figures in front of me. Cheers!

Hi Mike, I can get you a front/rear package (3-piece design) for around £135. I would post a pic but haven't got it to hand as I'm currently not in the office. They are of similar desing to some of the e-bay ones but these are made in Japan. They have base fixing plates (black powder coated) made from 4mm steel and polished aluminium (oval shaped) bars (with adjustable ends to allow precise fitment). I have recently sold a pair and have been very impressed with the quality. I've also just placed an order for my own car while I wait for info on the Carbing struts. I'll try to post a pic later tonight. The price is a guide price only as it varies with the exhange rate but should fall within £10 either side of the above. To fit the front bar you'll have to remove a patch of the heatshield measuring approximately 5cm x 7cm - 2 minute job! For future reference, I'm trying to get a mold made up for a one piece carbon fiber strut brace. This product is still some months off but should be lighter and stronger than all currently available strut braces. No price indications as of yet. Cheers!

Yosh, What you filled up is the radiator expansion tank. This tank is used by the radiator to dump excess coolant in when the engine is hot and suck it back into the coolant track when required. Follow Mark's (Topless) directions on how to fill the radiator - make sure you bleed the system to ensure there isn't an airlock. With the radiator filled to capacity the expansion tank should have roughly 1/2 a litre of coolant in it. I agree that it's difficult to guage how much fluid is in there by looking at the plastic dipstick. The expansion tank is made in two parts (the reservoir and a neck/filler tube) and where these two meet is where excess coolant leaks onto the road. If that happens you have too much fluid in the expansion tank. Not to worry but you'll probably see more fluid being dumped onto the road after a run. The "header tanks" you refer to are actually part of the radiator. If you look down onto the radiator you can see at either side of the radiator - they are the black plastic end bits that run from top to bottom and have the transmission feed lines on the LHS and the top water hose on the RHS. For instructions on how to bleed the radiator after filling it up do a search on this forum - it's a bit long winded to add to this post. Cheers!

One word of caution on SIM roaming for UK based people traveling on the continent: If the SIM is not "roaming" enabled you will not be able to track the car on the continent. Had this problem with my tracker initially and had to pay a deposit to enable roaming. Do not assume all PAYG or even Contract SIMS are roaming enabled - ask the provider. Cheers!

Here are the directions I did for the big Easter Meet a couple of years ago: Map of the location: http://www.streetmap.co.uk/streetmap.dll?grid2map?X=417980&Y=280338&arrow=Y&zoom=3 See the arrow just above the word "Solihull". Directions: If you're coming from the South: M42 (North) Get off at J5 and turn left onto the A4141 (direction Solihull) Dual Carriage way turns to single lane. Turn right onto the B4102 (Hampton lane). Follow it through until you pass the second side street on the right (Henwood lane) and the Boat Inn is on your right hand side. If you're coming from the North: M42 (South) Get off at J6 (NEC & airport) and turn right onto the A45 (Birmingham S.E.) Stay in the left lane which will veer off to the left and onto an island - turn left onto the B4430 (Catherine de-Barnes Lane). Follow it to the 1st island and turn right onto the B4102 (Hampton Lane). Go over the humpback bridge and the pub is immediately on your left hand side. There is a large car park at the rear of the Pub which we normally commandeer. See you there! (asuming it is still on .... Matty, any info mate?)

Just a few bits of info regarding the retrieval of stolen cars using a currently thatcham approved tracker system (this is from experience): 1. Car gets stolen & sends signal to monitoring station (only if you have paid for what is called "bureau monitoring" otherwise you need to inform the tracker company that your car has been stolen) 2. Tracking company phones you to confirm the car is actually stolen and it is not a false alarm 3. If theft confirmed you need to contact the police, obtain a crime reference number and then inform the tracking company of this number. 4. Tracking company then liaises with local police and keeps them informed of where the car is now located, heading to an speed. 5. With a bit of luck the police catch up with the scrotes that stole your car or, in the worse case scenario, your car wrapped around a tree. The car is then secured and a recovery company contracted to pick up the car and take it to a predetermined location where it can be further examined, repaired, valleted, etc. 6. If you have paid even more money then the car will be returned to your door. The above is how it works with most tracer companies. They will not do anything without a crime reference number and under no circumstances tell you where the car is (for safety reasons). As you can well imagine this process takes time and the car could be miles away. A former colleague of mine had his TVR Tuscan stolen many months ago and by the time the police caught up with the car it was driven (at rediculous speeds - according to the tracking company) from Barnt Green in Birmingham to the services at Oxford off the M40. That trip normally takes me just over an hour at normal driving conditions. So, yes - the police do go after stolen cars fitted with tracking devices if only to get a "caught in the act" arrest (according to a police budy of mine). In my opinion, tracking devices which are not insurance approved are a waste of time however, it would give me greater comfort knowing I can find out where my car is at all times. Therefore it is a compromise which you, the potential owner/user of a tracking device, should make and weigh off what is more important. I have seen similar units to that which Vijay is talking about in action in the past and it is very impressive to see the level of street level detail and telemetry that is fed back to your PC. I currently have a GPS/GSM tracker on my car but it doesn't allow me to track it myself - I may well be interested in adding that functionality through the purchase of this system or one similar to it. Cheers!

BTTT. Matty - any updates on this meet? I can help out with the organisation if you want me too although I am not getting involved in money matters (still have scars from two years ago ...) :x: Let me know m8! Cheers!

John - you have a PM re: pricing. Cheers!

Hi John, I'm going to be up in Nottingham either tomorrow or Friday and wouldn't mind making an appointment. Before I do though, how much did they charge - PM me if you want to. Thanks mate!

Provided you get wheels with the correct off-set and stud pattern then yes - you can bolt them straight on. However, putting 18" or 19" wheels on a car that has it's suspension set up for 16" wheels will increase the gap between the tyre and car wing visably. Therefore I would suggest you drop the car appropriately. Lowering the car is what upsets the camber and you'll need to fit adjustable arms to counteract that. HTH.

Happy birthday Stuart! Someone told me (when I turned 30 last year) that the best things happen to you between 30 & 40 - so make it a good one! Cheers mate!

I'm probably going to get b****xed for saying this but Leicester to Fazely is not that far. Take it real easy and you should be ok. Detting usually occurs whilst boosting or at higher rpms. Alternatively, speak to Jeff (ZedWorld) and get him to arrange a flatbed to pick up your car.

I agree with John regarding changing the bushes. However, I'd like to add the following ... If you're going to change the bushes for uprated polyurethane ones (ZCentre) then have them all changed as changing just a few will introduce an "imbalance" in the setup. Reason being that if there is one uprated set of bushes then these will operate at different tolerance levels to the old ones - which ultimately is an imbalance. Word of warning though - to change the rear subframe bushes requires you drop the whole lot under there (diff & all) ... HTH