DTA (UK)

Yes, I do ... because I sell them ;) £70 (+p/p) front & £70 (+p/p) rear or £130 (+ p/p) for the pair. Unfortunately they are currently out of stock. Fronts will be another 3-4 weeks, rears only 7-10 days. Let me know if any of you are interested. Cheers, Danny

Cheers for that Mujina - I've just placed an order for an ASUS A8V Deluxe/WiFi board and AMD 64 3500+ (socket 939). It is my understanding that with socket 939 boards the PCI bus is not utilised for SATA data flow as there is a separate (and much more efficient) memory manager onboard. I've also ordered several Akasa cooling products and a fan speed manager (front case mounted) to hopefully keep the lot cool-ish. Thanks again to everyone who have supplied their feedback. It's made my purchasing decision somewhat easier. Cheers! Danny

OMG :eek: http://www.tomshardware.com is fabulous! Thanks very much for suggesting it. It has justified a lot of my decisions but has left me one big choice to make tonight - shall I go for a socket 754 system (end of the line, no future proofing) or spend the extra dosh on a socket 939 system ... Current preference is leaning to the latter. Thanks very much everyone for your feedback and suggestions - it's been much appreciated. Is there anyone on here who can explain (in simple English) what the deal is with S-ATA drives, the speed bottlenecks with socket 754 mobo's and socket 939 mobo's native S-ATA connectors and Southbridge memory manager? Have been reading up on this only to be further confused. Many thanks again! Regards, Danny

Hi guys, My current PC is on it's last legs and I've been scouring the internet (and magazines) for the latest, greatest components. I think I've settled on the following spec but would like to ask your opinion on what you would choose and why. Bear in mind that I'm not made of money and I want something that I don't need to upgrade for another two years or so. This is what I'm currently looking to build: AMD 64 3400+ CPU (socket 754) ASUS K8V SE Deluxe motherboard with WiFi and S-ATA 1Gb Geil RAM (2x 512Mb DDR3200 400MHz) ATi X800XT 256Mb Grafix card (or the Pro version and "modding" it to 16 pipes) 2x 160Mb S-ATA HDD's Nebula Digi TV (PCI) - freeview tv card with PVR software DVD-RW/CD-RW/FDD 550W PSU Logitec cordless keyboard & mouse 17" TFT (16ms) screen I've been reading a lot about the future path which AMD is taking and it looks like socket 939 is it. Therefore, from a future upgrade perspective, would you suggest I go down the AMD 64 3500+ and MSI K8Neo PRO route for the sake of £100 difference or stick to the 3400+ socket 754 jobbie? The PC will be used for daily DTA-Motorsport admin, flight simulation (to keep my PPL training up), CCTV monitoring/recording and some games for when my god children are around (I'm not a games person personally ...) Also, can anyone confirm that the AMD 64 3500+ has 512Kb L2 cache and not 1Mb as advertised by several large computer firms? Also, am I correct in saying that a socket 754 motherboard passes the S-ATA data through the PCI bus, thereby causing a bottleneck whereas a socket 939 motherboard has native S-ATA connections which means there is a direct link to the Northbridge and consequently the data transfer rates are much higher? Don't know if I understood that last part right but I think you get my drift. Any feedback on places where I can get the components for a reasonable price is also much appreciated - perhaps someone on here has access to any of the above at trade prices (?) I've looked at the popular sites such as SCAN, Mesh, RL Supplies, etc. Many thanks! Danny

Hi Scoops Check out Mike Grove's company, Ultraspeed, he's in the traders section (www.ultraspeed.co.uk). Haven't used them personally (I have four websites with OneandOne Ltd - also very good) but it's definitely worth a look at. Good luck, Danny

From personal experience (and also because I sell a lot of chips ...) get it done professionally. It is so easy to get it wrong and ruin the ECU by either over heating the circuit board or not properly desoldering the legs. A professional outfit will desolder all the legs at once, lift out the chip and leave no residue. This service shouldn't cost more than about £25 (+VAT). As for putting the new chip back into the socket correctly, make a note of how the old chip was fitted. There is a small depression at one end of every chip - make sure you know which way round it is. If you fit the new chip in backwards then you will blow up the chip and render it useless (your ECU will be ok). Good luck! Danny

Hi Van, This may not be it but from my own experience this could be one or both or your O2 sensors going pearshaped. My driverside one started acting up and manifested the same symptoms (albeit not cutting out). HTH Danny

You're right Jay - vented panels are "mostly" for show although it does allow more air to pass over the induction kit. However, it could also let in more water and ruin your filter and/or afm. There is plenty of air that comes through the front bumper as well as from the side vents which fed the original airbox so don't worry about your non-vented panel not letting in enough air ... load of non-sense. Cheers! Danny

Hi Rich! Though it could have been you! I'm not usually on the M40 around that time so that was a nice surprise to see another Z. Did you see the trailer with the Ferrari Enzo on it? Was about a minute or so ahead of you ... See you soon mate! Danny PS - I couldn't hear you crunch your gears ... too much loud music on inside my car ;)

Spotted today at around 1330hrs a zed of the above description travelling on the M40 (S) towards J15 (Warwick). I was driving in the oposite direction and gave you a flash and wave ... don't think you noticed given the speed we were travelling. Could this be you Rich? ;) Danny

Chris - just to let you know, my supplier in Japan has recently informed me that the RAZO RA91 (titanium grey) has been discontinued and only the RA92 (shiny chrome plastic) and the carbon fibre one are still available. If you can still get hold of the RA91 then I will be interested in getting one for a client (I've already got one myself). Thanks! Danny

Thanks very much to all of you for your help. Gio - I could have :slap: myself because I "knew" that Outlook files are .pst files ... Just another one of those blond moments ... Vijay - I'm running Win98. (I'm just about to buy new components to build an AMD 64 3400 machine and will be running XP when that's done - still trying to find the best places to buy the bits and pieces from). Mujina - the search for *.pst files did it in the end. It was hidden in the Windows\Local Settings\... directory. I should have known because I came across that file before and thought it was weird that there was a 170Mb .pst file sitting there ... ChrisC - thanks for letting me know about the export feature ... now that I know where the file sits it's going to be quicker to just copy it to a CD-R rather than go through a "wizard". Next question - once I've migrated to Windows XP and Office XP (or whatever it is called) will the new version of Outlook have any problems with importing my old inbox? Thanks again for all you help! Danny

Hi Vijay - have had a look at your suggestion but can't find it (there is no "maintenance" under tools/options). Perhaps it would have been useful if I said I am using Outlook 2000 ... Thanks anyway! Cheers! Danny

Hi guys! Just a quick one tonight ... I'd like to start making regular backups (to CD-RW) of various files on my PC. One of the main things I'd like to backup is my Outlook inbox. I've searched everywhere for the .dbx file but can't find it anywhere ... do any of you know where uncle Gates has hidden these files? I've managed to find the Outlook Express .dbx files but not Outlook. Your feedback is much appreciated. Cheers! Danny

Marcus, As it concerns the rear seals on the turbos it is a real b*gger of a job to do. The turbo's are difficult to get at even if the engine is out of the car and you're standing next to it, let alone if the engine is in the car! From experience I would say that it is not a job you can do without taking the turbos off the engine block. However, whilst they're off the car you might as well replace them for uprated turbos, like the hybrids Smithy sells. Hope the above helps. Regards, Danny

Look very carefully and you'll notice that the plastic fixing points along the wires are located in different places ... that's the only difference between the two ... go figure! ;) Danny

Hi Marcus, Cats removal: if your car was built during or before 1992 then you can legally remove the cats. Take note though that this may result in heavy smoking from the exhaust due to the rear turbo seals leaking (remove cats = reduced back pressure). Airfilter: A'PEXi Powerflow is currently the highest rated airfilter (best filtration qualities and flow-through rate). I sell these at £100 + p/p but have a special on this week = £100 delivered to your door! Exhaust: Mongoose is an excellent cat-back system which will retain the stock look. It is made of stainless steel, 2.5" bore and twin 3" rolled tips either side at the back. It has a very nice deep rumble and a lot of people are very happy with the system. Note: a Mongoose system is cat-back only and you'll need to get decat pipes if you're removing the cats. I am a Mongoose dealer and can sort you out with one for £510 delivered to your door via next-day delivery. All you need to do is take it to an exhaust fitting place and that's that! Hope the above has been helpful in some way. Regards, Danny

I'm aware of those air shock kits but (a) they can severely compromise the handling characteristics (b) there is probably not enough space in the Z to fit the required hardware and © the ones on the Lambos are normal shocks. I've been in touch with two dealers and a specialist garage and none of them know what I'm on about. One said it was something that was fitted on some of the California bound Lambo's only as they have a lot of dips (gutters) where two roads meet ... How these two UK Lambos got them is beyond me at the moment. Should have kept the guy's number ... :rolleyes: Stay tuned! Danny

Was driving up the M40 today following 2 very nice Lamborghini Diablo SV's when the one in front of me starts smoking from underneath the car. Both of them pulled over, I did the same and jumped out with my trusty fire extinguisher in hand. Turns out it wasn't a fire but a massive oil leak onto either the manifold or the exhaust which was causing the smoke (and horrid smell ...) I waited with them until a low loader showed up to take the poorly Lambo home. Now, I normally have problems getting my non-lowered Z onto one of those things and was fearing the worst for the Lambo's front spoiler when ... at the push of a button in the cabin the front was raised by about 2"! :o Aparently this is what was fitted as standard to a lot of these Lambo's! Am now going to get onto the Lambo dealer to find out what system it is and how many of my internal organs I need to sell to get it fitted to a Z. Not a particulary interesting story but thought I would share ... ;) Cheers! Danny

Oh dear ... should have known this would happen ... Never mind - got his postal details now. Thanks! Danny

Mate - you bought a DTA-Motorsport chip for your TT last Sunday, paid for it but left before leaving us your address. Please get in touch with me to sort it all out. Thanks!

Thanks guys - need to get Billing out of the way before I can make a decision. So come on everyone buy my stuff, place orders - I need the cash for the tinting job! LOL ;) Cheers! Danny ChrisC - I've been in touch with cappucinotints and their quote is for applying the tint only - removing the old one will be another £70 - £100 :o

Hi Paul! Just a quick question for you reference the above. I understand you provide window tinting services ... My J-spec ZX currently has a dark window tint on hatch window only with a silly horizontal strip removed ... no idea why because it doesn't line up at all with the mirror (even if I were a small Japanese guy). Local quotes to have that removed and re-tint the rear and all side windows are - if I'm being completely honest - extortionate (£320 and a day's work seems to be the norm). Was wondering if you could provide a "ballpark" quote for removing the existing tint and re-applying a dark tint on the rear, side and rear quarter windows. Thanks mate! Danny

Recommended Procedure: (1) disconnect idle valve (2) adjust base idle (the way you did before) (3) reset ECU (4) reconnect idle valve Job done (probably ;)) Easiest way is to hook up a ConZult, go to the base idle/tps adjustment window (this automatically disconnects the idle valve and gives you a true reading of the base idle), adjust base idle (if necessary), exit window, job done. Good luck! Danny

Both sound advice and worth checking out. Unfortunately, in my case, the TPS is new and set correctly and IAA valve is operating correctly. A/C on or off doesn't make a difference to the stalling problem when cold. Cheers! Danny